jbwelda

does this kit come with that huge bubble top and all the other customizing doo dads? i think i am beginning to remember this kit from my youth...that bubble top is pretty unique not to mention unusable in real life!

i cant see those photos! is it something to do with photobucket? can everyone else see them? all i see is a box with "image moved or deleted" or something like that in it. kinda strange.

as for holding the lines to the chassis, one thing that works out nicely is to figure out the mount points you want to use and then drill a small hole there. then run a loop of very thin wire, like detail master detail wire, around the brake/fuel line and up through the hole. hold it taught and apply some superglue and maybe accelerator to the hidden area the wire comes up through, and youre golden.

those roof marks are just begging for a roof rack! wouldnt really fit the "rider" theme though...but have you thought about another mural on the roof? then again the masking tape vinyl roof is a good standby. i wouldnt want to strip that whole body and have to redo that paint!

hey old hermit, where did that 1/8 409 come from? and the straight six? those are some impressive builds! personally my "all time top favorite model" is the revell orange crate. how many have i built? zero. i have two of the reissue on the shelf and have yet to tackle one. but its still my favorite kit just from whats in it and the incredible (but fiddly to the max) detail. and i have always loved that chopped and customized 32 vicky body. (sorry if its not exactly a vicky body, im not an expert in the field by any means.)

i know at least a couple of Morris owners here in california...they have all switched over to japanese (datsun/nissan mostly) motors and running gear. so it wouldnt be too far a stretch to use something like that from the revell datsun 210 i think it was. dodgefever, you mention a sprite engine. any idea where to get one of those? only sprites i know of are Gunze and i dont believe they came with motor or under the hood detail. they did a nice elan with a twin cam lotus motor though. by the way thats Jairus Watson's hand lettered graphics on the morris i posted below. i am rather proud he undertook that project and very pleased with how it came out. thanks again jairus!

i used a diecast for the basis of this one, i need that resin body for another! i used the wheels and tyres from tamiya lotus seven and i would bet the cosworth motor would be close or at least could be made to be close to the morris with some de-tuning.

i typically soak resin in blechewhite for at least 24 hours. thats what i was told to do many years ago and never had a problem. dont know but sounds like your experience is different but i would strip the paint and soak for a day and try again. hope that helps.

say didnt i post in this thread yesterday? why i believe i did. and now i dont see the post. thats kinda funny. anyone care to point out to me how i am not correct?

i just ran across a white dougs headers pair of decals while looking for other stuff. these are small, probably half inch by half inch, white and kind of dirty. pm me if you want em and i will cut them out and send them to you. they may require a few hours in the sun to bleach them out and probably need to be coated with decal preservative as they look to be pretty old. they are very plain, no gold leaf or anything like that, just white lettering.

thats looking real nice and i dig those ghost flames. one thing i really hate about these models are the coach lamps...i suspect you are ditching them because you seem to have cut off the hangers on the cowl. good on ya. for rear lights on a big tub i built i found some red plastic jewels and made some hangers for them...looked pretty good in my estimation, much better than the coach lamps.

has it occurred to anyone here that the same writers who contribute to model cars also contribute to scale auto? sure has to me. any rivalry is strictly in peoples heads. personally i think each mag has its good points and its weak points and appreciate the fact that both are available at my hobby shop (because i dont subscribe to magazines when they occasionally end up trashed in the mail).

let me attempt a translation: ed shaver is having a hard time as his wife is in the hospital, evidently the second hospital now since presumably the first couldnt do anything(?) with a heart condition and in the meantime her elitist (i guess that means they can spell the word "elitist") bosses at her company want her to call in every day because its implied they think she is malingering. meanwhile ed seems to have come down with some kinda condition himself in which he cant even get out of bed. and he wants some prayers for his wife and himself. that wasnt too hard now was it. if it is indeed correct.

insurance companies dont build those big buildings by paying out claims. sure they will *sell* you a "stated value" policy...but just try to collect on it. it usually doesnt happen in my estimation. go to ebay and look at completed auctions for listings with "built" in the title. thats what our built models are "worth": basically nothing. stop stressing, its just plastic, not an "investment". you want an investment? buy apple or exxon/mobil stock. and be prepared to lose your a$$ on that too. and turn off your heater when you leave the room.

be sure to post the video of the model hitting the wall. seriously though, model building is about overcoming a series of problems. thinking ahead, difficult as it might be sometimes (and i am speaking from experience) will help a lot. so will patience. so will figuring out strategies for, for example, gluing difficult parts together. stick to it.

whats with those chopped off edges on the velocity stacks? do you have to do that to make them fit...or were they really that way on a 1:1?

>i used a lamdorgeni kit that missed every part except wheels an disk brakes. uh could you please explain this? a "lamdorgeni kit"? you mean those funny cars with the funny doors? whats that got to do with your 30s ford roadster? just curious

thats looking great! motor is super! i always liked that tall T body...the kit hasnt been reissued in some time i take it?

thanks folks, i just shot the mica red on the body and parts and hopefully the weather will cooperate tomorrow and i will get the clear red overcoat on. then i want it to dry out the next few days i am at work, and hopefully friday decide if it needs more clear.

just goes to show what can be done with those kits. sweet stuff and i love the comparison of the box stock one vs the custom.

you gotta also keep in mind all these glaring shortcomings when looking at a macro lens photo, or a scanner image, will disappear into nomansland when the piece is in situation. ive obsessed over stuff a number of times to get it sitting just right, from all angles, or something and then when the car is done there it is in all its glory: behind plastic "glass", tucked down into the corner, through tinted windows, etc! you really couldnt tell how it looked, just the piece being there was the point. so i think yours will look killer in your application, nice little detail that those in the know will notice.

shoot some dullcote or semi gloss clear over it? bmf does make some "matte" finish foil but to me it looks too shiny for a lot of applications too. but most of the stuff i build is (thankfully) low on the chrome content.

with bare metal foil any surface imperfection underneath it is going to show. if its not smooth the finish on the foil wont be smooth either. so the lesson is, you have to polish the surface youre putting the foil on if you want it to look like smooth metal. i hate the stuff too in most cases but its a skill you need to develop...most of the skill is patience. and when you get it right it looks great. that said, im stalled on my porsche/karmann ghia because ive not gotten up the patience to foil the two chrome spears on each side yet. originally i thought about removing them but never did...

thats looking great! mom must be pretty kool!

slowly but surely... more progress has been made by now, these photos were taken during the Great Period of Down (GPoD). heres some headers i can use: evidently mastered by lyle willits and sold by reps and mins these are exactly the look i was looking for. wish i had narrowed them by chopping off some pipe near the block but they look great as is. metalizer on the tips looks pretty convincing. i am done with the floorboard, flocked and accessoried and right now i am going to drill a hole in the chassis to run steering linkage through and hopefully put some color on the body (tamiya clear red over mica red) but it has been all foggy and moist lately so i have been holding off. thanks again for looking! view from above showing all the running gear: motor and pipes from above: and a closer look at motor pipes and body: