jbwelda

I happen to have just run across a set from Scale Equipment Ltd, # 25073-B, Can Assortment. these are resin parts and the set contains six one gallon square cans, with material to make a little top holder thingie, and also six each of quart and gallon round cans. might want to look for this; I got it a long time ago (>10 years) but I believe the company is still in business and they make all kinds of neat stuff like this for dioramas and accessories for builds. it doesn't say but I believe they are 1/24 scale, or at least the square cans are similar in size to the Revell parts pack ones I mentioned above. I think this bag of parts cost maybe 3$ max, so should be affordable. jb

yeah well great minds think alike, or at least deranged ones http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=92097&page=2 jb

why would you want to build kits you don't want to build? use them for parts or sell or give them away. life is too short, build what you like, that's my advice jb

well its not like he will be getting 200$ for nothing. packing all that junk up and getting it to the post office will eat significantly into his profit margin if he values his time at all jb

aren't some weber carb bodies larger than others? I thought they were. looks like from that pic I need to add those tubes in the venturis, which I skipped on the engine I used the RMM set on. thought they were too much trouble but I also thought I remembered them sitting way more down in the carb and not nearly as noticeable as those in the picture above. not sure I will actually use the motor on anything (revell showboat nailhead) it is currently just sitting on a stand in my display case. I did cut the tiny tubing down to size, just didn't bother with installing it. another winter project! jb

that's the idea alright, now just shrink that down and you are all set! jb

no wonder it takes you so long to complete a car, but oh what that time brings in return. super duper engine, fantastic detailing! jb

I have the reps and mins set of webers you probably do. the intake manifold is made up of two rows of intake ports supported with a very thin membrane of resin between the two banks, no detail there. I personally would be tempted to split that membrane down the middle and add a bit more to widen it. if it is too short that might be a bit more difficult but I think the widening it will give you what you need. of course they are 1/25 not 1/24 and of fairly small Webers to begin with I think. other than that you might be in for some scratch building which as mentioned probably wouldn't be too difficult for some basic log manifolds. jb

nice history aside from all the capital letters, which makes it very hard to read. what I did notice is you seem to be confusing the buick V6 with this engine. this engine is a V8. it may or may not have anything at all to do with the motor you are referring to. I do seem to recall that maybe the V6 was the V8 with two cylinders sliced off but not at all sure that is the case. at any rate these engines just look kool...I don't really care how they ran, I am building models here not running cars. I think that's how many of us think as well. Chevy V8s run well (well, that's not my experience but perhaps that was an isolated case) but are boring boring boring as sculpture if you ask me. hence my enthusiasm for this kit. jb

>So instead of whining who exactly is whining? i mean besides you whining about people whining. jb

as mentioned, Revells C1157 Accessory Display Items parts pack contains three chrome plated gallon cans with Gas Oil Water written/raised on them (one to a can of course). unfortunately i don't think this parts pack has ever been reissued so finding it might prove problematic. Included along with the cans are stations, rope, chrome (everything is chrome) crankshafts, floor creeper, floor jack, bunch of tools, bunch of pistons on rods (!), engine stand of the swoopy style, jackstands (4), fire extinguisher. oh the pistons and cranks are noted as Chevy parts so that might help in your next small block build! might keep an eye on ebay though, never know if it might come up. jb

that's not what the girls say, but thanks! jb

hi uncle scott, thanks for the response. if that's how you feel, why don't you just ignore me then, sport. wont be any skin off my sunburned butt, believe me. as for the T body if I had noticed you needed one I would have offered to send you one. i have multiples lying around. actually if you knew how to use ebay search facility you would realize there have been multiples of this stevens int version available and sold for 30$ or less, one as low as 18, in the past two months. try searching for: "competition parts pack -custom" (no quotes) in completed listings and you will see what I mean. and then notice what the list price of this parts pack is going to be. pretty simple stuff. by the way, no I don't have to contradict everything. but there I went again. jb

really? you do realize these exact trees have been more or less in circulation for decades? not to undercut the effort or anything, but you can probably pick up that stevens international pack with these exact sprues and believe me a whole lot more, including the other parts pack engine set just released, and probably pay less for it than you will for both these parts packs. I am all for the parts pack program, but I wish they would come up with something a bit better than this. they are certainly worthy motors (oops, "engines") on their own, just a bit overexposed. I am sure they were quick and easy (read: cheap) to run off though. jb

the problem with (presumably) randomly selected photos off the internet is you just don't know what you are looking at. both of those photos do resemble the area of the model, but seems to me that curve of the doorline is more pronounced on the model than the real thing. now understand that if I were building the model, I wouldn't worry myself one bit about it, it was just an observation of where exactly do you stop when attempting to accurize something. when I start getting really picky I notice that the distance along the curve formed by the back side of the side V at the window sill, to the same curve of the chrome trim below and to the right of it, seems a lot bigger in the model than in the photos above. might be camera angles, but also that curve does not follow the curve of the chrome at the beginning of its rise and widening, which it does seem to do almost perfectly in both the photos above. but you know, at some point you just got to say its good enough and that's probably what happens around Revells tool making facility especially when the deadline approaches. like I said, they really have only had 57 years to get it right...actually a few less if you figure they literally released a 57 within a couple years of the real thing. jb

that's interesting, I wonder what "lost" means? like literally lost, implying the possibility of one day being found? or is it more lost as in tossed overboard in a storm, or cut up and sold as scrap? I also wonder what the deal could have been with those accessories, the kart and the motorcycle, as I recall they might have been on separate trees from all the truck stuff, which might, just might, fingers crossed, mean that they could be found apart from the trucks themselves. they MUST know those things would be worthwhile repopping, especially given their current parts pack releases. but they might also just be some mold hidden away back in a corner that either no one has looked at, or looked at and didn't know what they were looking at, or looked at and just dismissed as some old stuff no one would be interested in? I understand it is often difficult to visualize what a mold is for, looking at its parts alone, so maybe something like these accessories just get lost in the shuffle? jb

a telephoto lens, will compress space which can make for a more pleasing close up of something like a model by keeping parallel lines from distorting (bowing) like most normal or wide angle lens will do, particularly at close range as in macro tabletop photography, and will also allow for more depth of field assuming the aperture can be stopped down enough (usually not a problem with telephoto lenses if you are using a tripod to make up for the longer exposure time necessary). same as in portrait photography, a 100mm lens will result in a much more pleasing look than will a 50mm or shorter lens which tend to distort features and particularly parallel lines and perspective. and yep bill I am with you: a real car will look better lower too. problem is, there are these real world obstacles like speed bumps, pot holes and other road surface irregularities that will prevent lowering a real car to look its best...a problem we don't normally have with models. jb

pretty much any model can look a lot better with some lowering. almost universally, right out of the box, models sit unrealistically high, at least to my eyes/brain (because that's what actually interprets what you "see"). unless its an off road vehicle or otherwise normally lifted vehicle (like a nostalgia gasser say), anything will look better 3 - 6 scale inches closer to the ground. jb

well there you have it, advice all over the spectrum. I personally think 6 to 9 inches is way too far away but I don't shoot with 35 psi either, so maybe that's the difference. I find I get a nice smooth flow coat at about 1 to 2 inches away from the object and usually 18 -20 psi. that's been mostly with Tamiya acrylics, also with some model master well thinned as well. but I really don't have that much experience with an airbrush so maybe I just get lucky. jb

thanks Wayne, I will have a look around! jb

wow they only had what, 57 years to get that right? now I am wondering if the door lines are actually supposed to curve forward like that as they approach the window sill? actually its all academic to me anyhow as I won't be bothering. but still its interesting. jb

the problem with decals falling apart can be solved with foresight: brush some future over them, or spray them with some clear lacquer or use some decal preservative solution commercially available. it makes it so you have to trim the decal very tightly, and they will probably take longer to release from the backing sheet (don't get rough with them or they will still split) but they will hold the things together for application. jb

what happened to the 63 Ford and 63 Chevy pickup trucks, that came with the Bonneville style go kart and the Triumph motorcycle (respectively)? wish they were on that list...oh I see the Ford truck is, wonder what the status is with that? wish they could issue the go kart and the triumph in one parts pack. now that would be spectacular and might not even cost much development money (seems to be their speciality) if the molds were still available! maybe I could get a job consulting these guys with ideas like that! jb

>It only takes .003 thousands of an inch I think you must mean 3 one thousands of an inch. .003" .003 thousands of an inch = 3 millionths of an inch jb

I agree on opening it up some and also maybe moving in closer to the work, so the paint hasn't dried before it hits the surface, which is probably what is causing your rough texture jb