Chas SCR

Coming in on Fri and them head to Kirkwood shown on sunday

How I do like the super snake but I do the the render drawing of what the car was supposed to be a 69 boss custom better.

This is looking better and better each time. Thanks for all the insperation on pushing us to the next level of detail work.

RMR is not going because of the turn around time for the NNL East. I'm looking forward to this show and seeing the new builds that every one has been doing over the winter!

Between the two camaros i'm doing I figur I would show how much the grill is set in on Brute Force comapre to using the kit with a stock setting on the grill.

That thing looks great Mark, you ever thought of having the 7 scribed into the lens like Chip Foose did on Impression with the V8

Very nice looking John!

Did you also know that the X frame was in the pontiacs before it was in the Chevy line. Chevy in the 40s was using the box or squar frame up to 58 and then came back in 65. But it was Pontiac that had it in there line.

Brute Force 2.0 back on in the shop today to get the grill work done. Started fixing the top vent late tonight so it will be fixed tomorrow, and also get the tail lights drilled out and ready to be made. It's been a long 18 weeks of not being able to paint or any thing for these projects but with the weather braking up for the next 4 weeks it's a hit and miss on when painting can be done.

Brute Force, as I was working on this tonight I had to thin down the inner fenders so the rear tires will clear it better and this is just some thing that comes with it. you can see the right side cracked just a little and the left is good to go. They are less then .001 thick in that are up to the lip.

I done a little work on this tonight getting the frame more square and put together with the brass parts. I did go back and made the rail extenchens longer so every thing will line up easy'er.

Put the rims together tonight and finish brush aluminum the fronts up to match the rears also redid the rear end so now every thing lines up and will fit once I get the hubs made and the brake rotors in.

Jason I do my painting in a paint booth in the basement in my shop but I can't keep the heat above 20 degrees and the booth is traping water in the air right now. The frame is 3d printed by me, the motor will be the one they ran at the big tracks and in Vegas as it's a lot more different then the flat intake one. For the body no, it was started from the AMT 72 chevy kit and then I shorten the bed up on it. The bed is a lot shorter then a normal short bed so there is still a lot taken out on both sides in front and rear of the wheel. Did a lot of talking to them down in Columbuis and Indy this year as I was getting ready to do this build.

Due to the weather being so below here in michigan and can't get any painting done on the two cars i'm building so far, I gone head and started on a build that I think will high light the new style frames and parts from the autocross world. No Limits has let me in on what the new frame that is going under there fastest autocross truck and all the updates so I can build it to the scale parts. This is not a show truck but more of a hard beaten race truck with street parts of today.

What's real nice as I do have the pics of this car as it was show'n a year ago at the Steel City Show but if you really get up and close to it and look under it in the last year and half as it was raced and got to know this car it's not a show car type of build. cleaning up the body work more and fine tuning it for paint. Also redid the rear end shock and sway bar supports so the shocks have a little more room to work free'ly

Danno I think he was talking about east coast shows or at least in the Michigan, Ohio area as I do know on the West coast your 2rd in line as they had judging at the AMBR show on the west coast. I will be heading down more and more like'ly as I want to get the Torino ready for the travel.

Ok he was asking about Michigan and I seen some one post about it and they are not right on how michigans laws are on tags. Historical tags is what it's called and we can run any tag (plate) here in Michigan to the date of the car if it's 25yrs or older. I have a 64 with Texas plates with Michigan 64 sticker on it. Some plates here in Michigan was not renewal or change of color or any thing like that as they used a clip with the year on the left and a clip for the right side also. They renewal laws been on your birthday day at midnight is when they run out. For the Historical plate they never have to be paid once you sign it in and it does not go off the numbers of the plate like some one posted. Also you can either run the front one or you can also have a fully different one on the front then the rear but not have it signed in. This was a big fad back in the 80s with the street machine guys running two different plates on there car.

This is very nice looking John, thanks for sharing it!

I plan on coming down but this is the 2nd judge show of the year as Detroit Autorama with the Detroit guys are the first show and thats March 7-9th.

Made some machine shock caps that are also threaded on. This is build for Redline Graphixs out of Ohio

Brute Force work today, the sub frame is powder coated look to it. This is a 4 part step I came across a few years ago to get this look.

after reading all this and 90% is not even helpfull on the use of metalic paints or even the info about why you shouldn't sand metalics. Lets get one main thing straight, you are not driving these cars down the road so you do not need to worry about a using any thing under 1500 grit paper to do any sanding for paint to stick to. This is a must for real cars so when they go over pot holes and such it does not fall off in sheets. Two under standing metal flake paint, there is aluminum chips that are made like little stars and sharp points on them to grab the light. They poke out through the paint and this is what you see in the light that makes it sparkle. The rule of thumb if you sand you are only sanding just a spot and when you do this it ruins the flake not the paint. And this what makes it give a off look to you when you are done sanding on it. Do not sand a complete body after shooting it this is not even close to being a real way of doing any thing. Lets start with sanding, the bare body after primer use start with nothing less then 1500 and go up to 12000 the smoother it is the better it is, (again you are not "NOT" driving this car) When you shoot metal flake paint or a pearl same rule applys, You do not shoot at the part or body, you shoot it over it and let the paint and metal flake fall on to the body. This lets the flakes go on a equal way of shooting and will not clump them up in a batch and make it look off in areas compare to other spots on the body. If need to sand a spot ( and yes it happens in 1:1 cars as much as this) You do not sand with any thing lower then 2000 and just in that spot. You can re shoot over that spot again. On some metal flakes the paint is clear as a pearl with flake it in and it will change the shading or color in the spot compare to the other area because you do not have enough of the same coats on it. A lot of metal flake paint is a thick paint as it's not a translusent paint like a pearl where you have to keep track of how much you have over a panel so it looks equal. Clear coating it does take about two coats to cover over the points that stick out of the paint so then you can wet sand it. Still do not wet sand less then 2000 and go to 12000. The last is save them lower grit paper for if you get into putty work as this will help knock it down faster so you can finsih with the higher paper.

I really want to thank you for pushing me into doing more brass work Mark, I just started doing some more on the lathe and mill and I really like it compare to aluminum and easyer to clean up. Oh ya it looks 100 times nicer when done.

And like normal thing it comes down to time = money as it will take a while for a machine to do it, The videos on any subject of this has been alter so much it's not even close. LSX block setting at time to make a motor block and what quality it is brake down, .3mm layer thick worse quality 9hrs, .1mm layer thick mild quality but still needs clean up and smooth out. 14hrs .050 layers very smooth and good quailty 21hrs and at .008mm layer thick. No clean up, smooth as injectioning mold 36hrs for just a motor block. Now take that into tieing up the machine for this much time' not a lot of people will spend what it will take to make such a thing.