Chas SCR

I'm glad you guys are having a good time and enjoying this build Both inner fenders are now in place and also part of the lower roll pan is starting to come together.

starting on the inner front fenders.

I do a lot of research as build pics from who built the car as in RPM Hot Rods, Scotts Hotrods, Barry White SRRC hot rods and so on. I contact them and talk to them about getting a dvd or cd on all the build shots of there cars. Also I get with Detroit Speed Inc and other places like this and they too help bring the world of real cars to the modeling world on how to build it and how it works right.

As we head out to SLC I know you guys are doing the stuff in brass and aluminum. What would be the best white glue to use so I can bring my Camaro to the show?

I know you are past a main point on this build but if you ever do another one the easy way of doing the wheels is to cut the rear fenders off and then turn them and build the rear fender area back down as this will help the flow of the body and also keeps the wheel openings to the right size with out cutting into them. I built a car back in 2009 called "Concept 36" and that was when I learn how to do this as they did it on the real car to help the body flow.

I have a couple of 1/8th scale jobs in the works but never really started as of yet. I like building in 1/24th scale as you can still put all the detail and every thing that is in the real car and scale it down. Also what is fun for me is the builds I do you really do not see any one putting in what is todays world of cars on the parts and talking to the 1:1 companys like Detroit Speed Inc, Magnusun Super Chargers and such to replicate there stuff and then talking to Justin from Scotts Hot Rods, Raid Rides by Troy and Curtis from RPM Hot Rods are great people to work with.

Great detail work as always Mark, can not wait to see you and your dad in a few weeks and learn from you more!

Can not wait to see it in a couple of weeks Bill and talk to you about learning more on how to do this.

I was looking again at the build pic of the front bumpers and if I did redo them to a thinner round stock i'm not to sure if it would show enough roundness to it. They are flat on top and under side that comes out to a angle like this ). I will also take that under advisement for doing the trunk lid. There is a lot of build on that also that I really have to take my time with and getting it all to fit in place. Why I was thinking of going to brass was it will hold the contures right and still be thin enough for it all to fit.

Harry, I think it's when the traveling to the shows start is what Mark is trying to say on upkeep for a project like this. I maybe wrong but seems that the couple of cars that I have done in styrene would have been better off if I learn to use brass for the repair or even keeping it together with out having to worry about repairs.

@ Mark, here are the bumpers showing how thin they are now. The bumpers with the quarter shows how narrow they are. This was brought up as a conseren from a friend of mine but after checking them they are .070 thin compare to the kit ones that are .120. Also I was able to get the trunk lid started and the drip rails put in tonight. The trunk lid will be made out of .030 thick sheet stock later and have a lot of brass work under side bracing done.

@ Mark, yes I plan on having it in white glue on the primer table. I did measure them and they was a little thicker then what I would like as the kit ones are .120 thick and they was .080 thick so I sanded them down to .070 thick now. This is about as much as I can go with out making new ones as I used .020 thick sheet stock and lade them inside the bar so the 1/2 of the round stock could show the roundness to the edge.

I will make a note of that Mark thank you for pointing that out. It's a little thinner then the kit bumper but not a lot.

I will take a better pic tomorrow of the nose, both sides of the bumpers are done and I can line them up and start the grill bumper tomorrow.

More of the bumper part done and also completed the firewall tonight.

1280 miles to GSL, 620 to NNL East, 310 to Louisville, 255 to Indy, 110 to Detroit, and this year also making a trip to the show me state that is 740 miles. Traveling is not a big problem or gas prices to me as they are still lower compare to every thing else that has gone up over the years.

Great work Bill, it has lead me to trying also had at brass work for a project and between you and Mark it just make a person better. Thank you again for all your help.

Thank you Marshall for the kind words. I'm hoping to have it to the point I can shoot another coat of primer and wet sand before heading west so people can see it on the primer table. I'm learning a lot on this and even though it's not done in brass I'm trying to replicate the same way as Bill and Mark is doing there stuff.

Just got the bumpers started and forming the back side to hold it together.

Du Pont 1950 Plym black is the true black that has not other hue numbers in the mix.

I was able to get back on Brute Force, the nose is starting to come together with just a couple of things to complete tomorrow and it will be done on the nose so I can do the spoiler and trunk area and then the bumpers.

How you cut strip brass or parts and not have them curl up on you?

The Hoosier club, Brian Fishborn is also a good person down in Indy to contact with or even Tom Nungester will help you out. They are all from your area and are top people to talk to about this.

Also to add to this is once going to Automotive paint stay with the same brand name for the base and clear as if you have troubles there is really no way of finding out what you did wrong or if it was some thing else happen. Primer normally does not have any troubles but mix matching between the likes of PPG/Du Pont or HOK/PPG and such but there is also a lot of them you can mix match as they worked more hand in hand now days. You can also get Planet Color from NAPA and they are also will work good with HOK stuff.