Chas SCR

Got a lot done on "Brute Force" LSX motor tonight. Have all the pulleys made and in the right location to a true LS7 motor unlike the kits do and plus the water neck is taken off and relocated the right way. I machine up the 4 extra pulleys I needed and the oil cap in the valve cover and painted them up. Also I do have the quad coil packs done and bracket made and painted. I just have to scratch build the power steering box and put the pully on it and then I can put the belt in on this.

LSX valve covers are all ready out to the public from IRC 3d Imaging.

oil pan and trans pan bolted on and shows the drane plug bolt. The white parts are the duel coil packs, as it is one set of 4 for each side of the motor down by the motor mounts. Here are the rims in there rings. The back two are one each of the polish and brush aluminum look. I have to get with Bob and see what one we are putting on the car

valve cover bolts are added and front cover bolts. All done with the .25mm acorn nuts from R&B Motion. The rim centers are now painted and clear coated with the aluminum spinner cap. Thank you every one for looking and thank you to Bill Davis and Mark Jones for keeping me going with there great builds!

Looks even better and keeps me thinking of moving forward!

Very nice Bill!

got the valve covers done and put on the motor and now ready to wire it up and get it all done so that part will be complete other then the bolts put into them.

Tom was able to do both front and rear rings to the correct offset that I needed for the car. He also added a set in that are hi polished and a set of the brush aluminum ones.

Called on one of the best at his game! Tom Nungester did the rim rings for "Brute Force

very nice work Mark!

"Brute Force" now has the trunk lid done and rear spoiler work done. This work was all done using the 3d machine and getting the right angles for the rear trunk part.

Like the real car the motor area is a very tight fit, The LSX427 motor that is now sitting it it and ready to start being painted and put together. The block, heads and special valve covers was made from a 3d printer that I have and fits every thing real nice.

There is big differnce between a retro mod/pro touring car and a full blow Pro Touring G-force car. The G cars are made to show/go and beat the living BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of and still drive down the road! Kyle Tucker from Detroit Speed drove his Goodguys National winning camaro from NC to Columbus ohio and still put on a heck of a show and drove home. If they don't have a 4 point cage or better then they're not a G car! For Pro Street guys come on all you did was take the 70s street machine and tucked the tires under the rear fenders and still only can do a straight line with it!

This summer has been a lot of fun meeting new people but at the same time after the GSL here is what I been doing, learning how to work with brass and what tools I need to do all the great work with.

Looks great Mark, how big is this thing?

This work was done yesterday and now I figure out how to post pics using a different program! Yes I'm back on "Brute Force and doing the frame connecters and putting them in after Bob pointed that out to me at Columbus this weekend.

Brute Force getting the roll cage done and fitted into the floor. Seats need just a little bit more shapping at the top and the rear grab bar section made.

Why can't we post photos now?

Looks very good Bill! can not wait to see this again in person!

It just comes down to what you like and what kind of build you are doing is all. Urethane clears they do have a grade level on shine and how they come out with work to them, also what kind of build you are doing and such. If you are looking for a factory stock from 1930s to 1990s you may not use it as it would give to much of a shine or you can use what is called a deadner in the clear to kill the shine to help with the look. If you are doing 1 off AMBR style cars of today you better either learn how to use it or do a lot of work to get the shine of them cars on the hobby clear. For $$ difference I use Du Pont 4600 Nason for a lot of the stuff and that is $36 with Activater and I can do about 60 kits and that is 3 coats per a body on paint. Now for some of the builds I also us a Du Pont 7900 Crystal Clear and that is a lot thinner and clear and also gives a brighter shine with out the work that it takes with Nason. To get the same out of say Tamya clear can of that is $7 a can and you can get what about 1 kit so in the long wrong the money wise it is cheaper to invest in the 2 part clear only if you are looking for some thing that is a high end. And no you do not have to thin it and it does self level out and it's harder to get a run in the clear.

The next show is at the Goodguys Nationals in Columbus Ohio 2nd weekend in July.

Looks great Bill, can not wait to see this next year at KC show!

The only true judging is from the GSL, Heartland Nationals shows where they take there time and really look at how the cars are built and the build books, If you are going to do custom work or a lot of scratch building then start doing build books for your work showing the judges what you did. Remember you have to tell them what you did, they do not have to guess at it! For most of the cars here they all have 1 thing in commen and thats they are black! Black cars like in the real world do not win shows on the norm as there is no wow factor like big red corvettes and such.

With the motor block, heads and oilpan is just a test mock up for another build. I did do the Brute Force valve covers today. Came out real nice even at the low res .3mm setting but once I do make the main ones i'm going down to .0050micron setting. The motor was all done for this car and another project that takes a taller head for the LS7 motor block. heads are .3mm taller then the revell ones.

the big over size 16inch 6 piston Bremo Brake calipers for "Brute Force" they are now done and three part. The rotor was a test shot for the rotors and will be redone for the rears and the fronts are 14 inch rotors, also there is a bolt hold at the top so the bolt rod that runs through the two to hold the pads in place is there. There is just enough room to fit inside the rim and the fronts will be a lot easier to fit as the rotors and calipers are not as big.