Chas SCR

You may want to check wth MCW if he has Granittlie Orange, or some thing like that. Because Petty had the blue and he had the orange for Indy and STP put the two together when they sponser both cars.

I use the med yellow CA glue from Hobby Lobby just a tooth pick end tack the part in and zap it. This will hold it in place and also it make the glue very brittle so it will brake and chip off easy.

Thank you Derick, I still have to make the one part to go to the motor and then make the two pad spacers to go in. I almost screwed up as I have both a normal block and the LS block photos in the same folder and started building off the wrong photo.

The other side I was able to get done and also drill the holes into the cross member for the motor mounts.

John I respect you and the work you have put into this and think its good even when you can set back and know the mistakes so it will not happen again. For me I wish Mark Jones or Bill pointed out my mistake on my Runt build specialy on the side trim back about 8 months ago so I could have fixed it. I did contact Mark off list and see what he thought could I do to fix it so late in the game and I took his word on that I would make more mistake on fixing it then leaving it alone. Guys either way we learn and some times we just over look the very little thing and it comes back to bite us in the end and not one person is 100% a god at this thing. Mark does know what he is talking about on a lot of detail stuff and I would look to him just as I did to Randy Derr on my steering problem.

one side of the motor mounts made in two of the three parts. They will be bolted together and to the frame and block when done.

Seems you are asking a question that to each person has a different limit or sight on. You build for your self even if you are building a car for some one else and try to keep it in your budget of your own. Each person on here has a different way of doing things and how much they drop for clear coat, paint or even go after buying a lathe or mill. Some of use do drop change like its falling from a sky compare to others but it's what makes us happy and us work better.

Just asking but why not put the hoop connected to the top of the frame rail to give it more relistic look? or is this need to get the right angle for the strut?

Thank you for the support.

DSE clip with the body mounts move on the left and a stock clip ready to get cut up for a different design on the right! Also the one on the right will be made for "Legend" another built I will be starting up on here in a few weeks and this clip will be a strut clip then a A-arm clip.

No budget as the sky is the limit! I just figure I keep on buying stuff till the job is over with. For paint and clear now the basecoat paint has gone up $2 oz for reds and yellows starting this month and clear gone up $4 more on top of it. So I look at friday just for the red for a car i'm doing was $56 for 8oz of red and $147 for a qt of clear, but the clear will last a year or so.

Did the lower A-arm connecter points today and also put the section on the crossmember.

Looks great in brass! we are about at the same point of work today but yours had to take a lot longer then mine did for sure!

Thank you, I know the agnle on the top part of the crossmember is not the same but to get the clearnece issues right some thing had to give and look close to it. Some times you have to cut away to make it right! The rebuild of the crossmember and plate to hold the steering rack in, also this part help drilling out the hole and line up for the steering shaft to slide inside the crossmember under the motor mounts.

Seeing how the rack will fit down in between the two sections. Also did the build up of the main crossmember so I can put the motor mounts in and also drill in the slot for the steering shaft.

Rebuiding the front part of the chassis, had to narrow up the crossmember and put in the front section to hold the steering rack in and also this is where the front sway bar runs through. This will be a full working front end when it's done.

Thank you for the kind words~ Was able to get the rearend done and fitted in, also had to redo the frame rails and shock connecters to blend them in better and also you can see where the swaybar tabs are located on the rear end.

No you dont Jonthan! Yes as long as you log in with your fb account you can copy from facebook and put the url here and it works just fine.

Thats cool Tom, some Michaels will let you James and also you can some times double up and use the Hobby Lobby one with your Michaels if you have a nice person waiting on ya.

Are you guys really kidding me and saying the growing attitude in the sport today is not the same from day one? Get real, if you think this can not happen the same way at 100mph as it did at 200 then you are kidding your self the same. This week there has now been 4 cars ended up in stands from East Bay on the dirt all they way up the coast line to Daytona now. It will not change a thing as this was just a one of them type stuff every thing did there jobs and the bad thing is the tethers that was to hold the wheel on the frame was with the frame in some ones lap. The cars are built for safty of the drivers and one of the bad things is going to the bump stop chassis design this also has a Z frame at the front of the fire wall. This does not help in making a car safe compare to the older sold straight frame from the firewall out. Things are going to happen and if you do not like it or think it will not happen then you need to quit watching it or thinking about it.

Making the 4link connecters on the fitted rear end. This is right side is all done now! Just have to do the left side and put on a couple other parts for the sway bar and such to fit into.

Had to put it in primer to complete the holes around the center section also. They are driled out with a #76 drill.

@Mike, it was not bad on the motors 1 was new and the other is last seasons motor I had to have rebuilt for a big track motor.

Thank you Russ for the kind words and looking. I may not have change over to doing it all in brass like Bill or Mark has but I'm trying to get it right in plastic before making that change. Work on the front of the rear end. The only pic I have to go off from was this one to do the detail work. Also when doing some thing like this you have to remember how much can they really see in the detail. The holes are drilled out for the bolts and the new tubs are also put on and the center of the yoke has been move down .100 from center so it will be as close to the same style rear end cover.