Chas SCR

How about just plan sanding it smooth? If it's a plastic still you can sand it down smooth over the edges and if they are still high or low then fill them like we do normal parts. Bob use electric platting I think and I know he has done a ton of my stuff and it has all came out good. I can not see this stuff being more warping then resin could as that stuff does not take a lot of heat to warp like a chassis or bumpers. Also what machine are you working off from if I can ask? I seen two different machines and one of them makes the parts as smooth as a resin part is and the other not as smooth but very close to it.

The motor is now in 'Runt" all hooked up with fuel lines and ac lines ran to the firewall, Top and bottom water hose on and last the vavle cover breather box in place with the lines ran. Also you can see the new vavle covers I put on that are smooth on top and put in the acorn nuts in the top of them. The AC and fuel lines are hard line sold that I ran a file over it and then painted dull black and then use a black marker over the braided line so some of the silver will show through with the black wash look. Once I put the intake tube on you will not see a lot of the hoses as this part covers up the top half of the left side.

This is why you are such an inspiration to us and make's us want to either learn or go out of are normal box and try some thing like this! Thank you Mark

Pat you have to look at it like this, The C-N-C lathes only been main stream since 1983 and programing and such. Now you can have one in your house since 1990s. This is only going to go so fast and it will take time. Not a lot of people are going to understand how to do it other then the younger kids as they are learing this type stuff already in school. Just like I remember the day we were able to to be 1 of 3 High Schools in Michigan to have a C-N-C mill, When we did the VoEd compitition at GM in 1984 there was only 19 kids in that group that could run the machine. That was out of all the school in Michigan. Now look at it. They are passed that and learing engineering in high school level now with the computers. The same is going to be with this 3d printing. If you can buy one just to play around I strong'ly would do it if you are young enuff to under stand the programing. The older group of people are not going to go out of this circle and do such a thing. Yes the price will be down to a point but I will say you will not see any thing under $300 plus you still have to buy a program of some kind. The way computers are out dated every 2 years I would say a package deal for a good one that can make parts smooth as normal kit body and they have it already down to that point. You are looking at $400 will be the lowest for the full package.

That 6x6x6 will do a lot of stuff if you think about it that is not normaly done in resin. Now if you want to spend the extra $300 and up grade to a 8x8x8 that will be able to do about any body you like other then a stretch custom.

Very nice work done! I really like this thing and how you are doing the changes.

Hood hings are now put in, The breather box is now done and has the air filter on it. And the last look of the motor as the belts are now put on the pullys and ready to go into the chassis.

Folks there is two cars that need to be taken to the GSL in Salt Lake City this coming May, Is there any one that is around the Burmingham AL area or with in some what could pick them up. They are two of the late Ricky Couch cars, The person that has them is scared to have them ship to them because of how beautiful they are and I can tell you they are very nice and done right. If you could help us out on getting them there let me know or message me off here or email me at shawrides124@yahoo.com and I will put you into contact with hiim. Thank you.

Interior is now done! The head rest is in place and yes they do move up and down on the driver one only.

"Runt" is now have the windows polish and clear, The side 1/4 rear windows are now in with the window slider put in also. The last photo is showing how every thing is together with the interior and line up to the door jam.

Jon, There is the Atlanta NNL as also know'n is the Southern NNL, Then you have the CKM NNL in NC down in your area. I think you would like this kind of show as like Tom said, it's more of an open show and just to see what every one is working on and plus a lot of the guys cars that you see in the magazine's also show up to them so people can learn from them.

That looks so good as if it was done in photo shop! Man you are great with it.

Not sure if it will work on the dye they put into the plastic to make it red but for the HO stuff on the hard bodys we use to use Oops and soak the body in that and it pulled all the color dyes out of the plastic with out messing with the body so it could be painted again. This let us also keep the bodys really light at the time.

Why not just use CA glue and kicker and then sand? To fill seems use and old xacto blad and take a drop of CA clue accross the blad and spred it over the seem to fit it in, Hit it with kicker and it turns sold and you can sand it right off with in couple of sec's of doing this. Then you can still use bondo or even what ever you want but if it's done in an open area like a door seem that you are relocating you can sand it smooth to the point you can not see it under the primer when painting.

will not be updating this for a while as the windows came in today for "Runt" so please watch that thread as the final build on that is coming.

Bill this looks great, What about adjustable A-arms for the upper and lower? This lets you move the tabe a little more to where you want it to be instead of having a big boss going across the frame and making things real tight?

Should put some kind of grass or weeds around the edges so people will look at the out side as much as the inside!

You can do more with the 56 and the new 57 chassis then you can with the molded in stuff that the 55 has. You may want to buy the new 56 or a black widow 57 kit just for the chassis and rework it a little to fit. This will let you do your own exhaust and a few other great stuff.

Thank you guys for the great words, I have been trying to get my brass work better and was testing this tonight as Mark Jones just makes you want to step up to trying new things as you watch his work or even see it in person. Was able to get the fuel cell plate in tonight on the rear floor, Now I will build the frame back up also was able to do the roll pan in brass as i'm not sure if I like it or not.

Just shorten the axle tub or go inside the rim and shorten the connected tab and bring the rim in more.

Blue Ridge Mountin Machine out of WV can get any thing you need for this lathe.

Man all I can say is you are the King of the Diarama stuff! wow

Thank you for looking every one. I have been hard at work and trying to get ahead on this project knowing it will slow down real fast for a couple of months and then I can pick back up at it after May. Floor board and chassis day, Here in the pics you can see the slot next to the frame as this is where the lower 4 link bar goes into. The frame has been lower flush with the floor in the hoop so I can add back to it where the shock connecters are located and also the 1/2 rear frame floor is drop 1/16 inch on top of the frame so this will give more room for the exhaust