Chas SCR

pic 1 Did the flocking today to the interior "Runt" now getting this done and the rest will be a breaze if it works out. Pic 2 and 3 In the next two pics you will see the front and back side of the rim. The rim in the front has all 3 colors and the back is all done in flat black. This gives the shading in the front more 3d affect and helps with the brakes. Pic 4 Better shot of the door with the door gard and how the flat black shows up to the red on the paint job. last pic Here is the door's done, It has the arm gard in black that will be two shades, The closer part to the window edge will be in mid gloss black and the inner part will be flat black. This will give it the look of the rubber that is between the door and window frame and then the inner arm gard that is in place.

Pete, i think they mean is that they are builiding for there tast only. (ie like my cars) Lets a take a 32 ford high boy for example, You can take 10 kits and give 9 of them to diffrent people and 1 to me. Now 99% are going to build that kit as it was pre 1980 style (Rat rods fall in to the 80s or before style also) And I come off with some thing that looks like Chromzilla that is brought more into todays styling of custom hot rods or 1 off cars. To the judges this car because of some of the true ways of hiding the wires and things like they do in real life, does not work for them and they go to the pre 1980s stuff first and award that even if some flaws are show'n and such but they can see ie more detail. Now yes I can take a car and builid it like every one els or I can say hell with the judges and go my way of building it and do it for me and if the judges do not care for it then it's there choice not mine. I like what I build and also has help a lot of people figur out how to do things of todays customs and such and make a new build level for them to get to. This is not to put down any ones style or building what they like.

Thanks Pat, I will be going to his shop to day and will get more info for you on what we used and the names of the printer and cutter. Also I will find out what thickness we used on doing "Runt", I want to say he said it was .0002mm but I can not say for sure with out asking. I do know what size blades we use on the cutter as it was a special order for that.

Mark, Can the decal paper be order in the same as vinyl? if so what company should I look at ordering and such. I know the printer is a 4 ft but i can load it with smaller paper. Now for the plotter/ cutter I guess i do not know the real term to use for it but can that also be used for cutting out the decal?

This is like losing a brother! Dennis is a great person to work with and always is the first one I call when I need a kit or parts quick. I remember calling him on friday ordering and telling him the check will be in the mail on monday morning, I sent the check and got home from town to find the model on my steps. 2 mail days across the country is great. Will miss him for sure.

I was just woundering is all Mark, I know that I do not under stand a lot of what is behind it all but the guy here who I invested money with for his shop to be the only one to have one in are local area and I just seen how much detail we was able to get it to do with out losing detail at the same time. Pat, You can get the vinyl to fourm to any thing even with out the heat gun. If you go in my build thread of "Runt" ths was not done with a heat gun in use and even before I use the clear coat to seal it so it would make it that the detail was all airbrush work like the real car was there was not over'ly bright area. It all falls on who and where you are ordering your vinyl from. I have a book here that has 1,000 diffrent colors and the priniter program to change the shading of the colors up to another 3000 color choices. Now I do not know all program names or what we have put into the computer to make it work but it's just so nice to see some thing like taking the letter R and I have been able to take it down to .005 by .005 and with an eye glass you can read it as it was writen here with no problem. I will have the main sheet with me at GSL in the build folder if any one would like to take a look at this stuff even more.

Casey, you can get the vinyl in any color you like and the printer choice for color also has over 3,000 diffrent colors to pick from. Joseph, Yes that is what i'm talking about it the one for doing sign making and such. Wish they would make a printer for a desk and the cutter to fit on a table. Other then that it's real nice and just think with all the things you can do with this (Nascar,drag cars) and on and on it's like starting all over again.

I think your doing a real good job on this. It takes time is all, Keep up the good work and just think the next one will be better and better. This does not happen over night!

Thank you Bryan, ya it's coming along good right now, About another day on the body and that part will be done and I can get to the fine detail of the interior and chassis. This still has a long way to go before being done.

Pic 1 This shows how smooth the black and epoxy looks after being clearcoated. Now i can paint it mid black and will not hurt either the clear coat or the rubber and still have the depth and thickness i need when the window is put in. Pic 2 Now look at what the tape does on top of the door gard the textur is show'n even more and when it's flat black it will be the same as the real car and not smooth like the window rubber or the paint job Pic 3 Runt what it looks like under normal light and in a clean paint booth! Shows the bronz to the red real nice.

Pic 1 Rear seat being fitted in and having the center consel put in also. Pic 2 With the rear seat in, I put the roll bars in to hook up the fire extinguisher and connect that to the rollbars. Pic 3 The hood has been wet sanded and now i'm adding the gard to the front of the hood, yes this is normal tape as it gives off the same textur as what the gard does and this will have the chevy bow tie in it when i'm done.

If I was you I would start out small like doing the chassis parts on this first model to under stand how to get stuff to work and be free and able to be in scale. get the stuff to start with from R&B Motion and work with that, then go to the hinges and such as closer to getting them to look right and work are two diffrent things and is a real challange.

We talked about the 3D printing and such and now lets get into this, How about the detail that is not that far off for people at home to have is a Riprap printing machine and cutter. Yes it's a little pricey and getting the program to run it in all but the works of this machine is so far advanced in todays detail its passed any thing we have going in the modeling world. The vynal is less then .002 thick and can be rapped on a body or even area's of the body as if it was painted on and you would not have any idea of this if some one does not tell you about it. If you go to my thread and look under "Runt" this was use under the hood with the R's in a circle around them. they are .030 size from outer edge of the circle to the outer edge. You can see the R's as if it was writen down here on the paper. The more detail it has and able to do is so far past any printer (And yes I have a lazer printer) that can not even come close to this machine. Also the cutter cuts them out if you need to with a blad that is .0005 thickness. You see it being used all the time on bill boards and Nascar (yes the rap) but just think of how far we can take this and using it for are help. No more paint, no more harmfull vapers, you do it all on the computer and using vynal.

model car garague makes PE set for them.

put the black rubber around the rear and front windows. Also put down tape on the door to give it a diffrent textur to make it dull black. This all little detail will set the body off even more when it all comes together.

Plowboy, you did not even read what I put down if you are asking me if I use clear coat! I was saying there is no reason to not having a good clear coat put on a model in todays world and you should never see orange peal at all! I'm with Art and lot of the people who do build for shows and love seeing first hand on what people come up with specialy in Customs,ie Replica (non factory stock style) Street Rods and Street machines. But it all comes down to one thing and that is the "end results". Each class will always have there spots where each person will very over some one. There is alot of people who can build 1 off style customs but when it comes down to factory specs this just not there style and for them to get the shading right on either the frame or chassis or interior it's just a little off from where it should be. Same with some people who build just factory style stuff, asking them to move in the class of full 1 off custom cars is a main challange for them. Or even going to replica 1 off style cars this is another thing that can be a main challange for some one. Either way build for what you like and how you build it, as long as your happy and always learning from some of the best people on this fourm then its working to help you.

Over all look of the car should win no matter what aftermarket or 3d deal you doing. You stil have to paint it finish it and put it on the car and make it look right as a builder. Now for paint with all of todays stuff that is out there to work with there should never be orange peal and flat out no use of clear coat. Them two things should never happen and it still goes on so much to the point that the builder needs to step up and learn.

1st pic This is how bright it gets with a flash, Also now it is done for the first of the wet sanding and tomorrow I will put the black and rubber parts on the body to be clear coated 2 more times. 2nd pic Here is a pic with out a flash and this was what I was hoping for, The Rap in side the fenders was right with the shading of the body that will be seen more normal then with the flash of a camera.

2nd pic The rear crossmember exhaust clamps are now bolted in place. 3rd pic Full shot of the chassis with all the bolts put in and ready to start the last little details before going all together.

First look at "Runt" in clear coat! This will be ready to wet sand on monday as the Du Pont 7900 drys.

That is why it saves going to true automotive urethane paint. More bang for the buck.

1st pic This part here goes in between the frame rails and hold the cross member and also exhaust in place. You can see the exhaust clamps bolted in and there is 2 per a side plus 2 bolts each. There will be two more per a side put on the rear crossmember. 2nd pic Showing the top of the crossmember as it has 4 3/4 bolts with washers in place. Plus there is 2 more at the end of the long drive shaft cover that bolts to the rear crossmember.