Chas SCR

I just got my order also from Norm, a lot of great stuff to do Undsiputed 32 and Maganitude... His resin is so nice!

Doing the 1962 Hayden Proffitt car that is called the "Faults Proffitt" this car was in the Super Chevy magazine and also can be seen at the NHRA Museum. It's base on what you may see Hayden race in 1962, This is not 100% of any car that he ran at any 1 race. Here are a few pics of the detail work that so far has been done. The body is painted Cardnial Red and between the two diffrent rear ends show the front cover that is painted red and has the 12 bolts put into place. The dash is being done in two as to line up the gagues for the steering shaft.

For doing the boydster 1 or any of the boydster series cars would be a big project as they are not just putting a 32 together and painting and calling it what it is. For the easy ones to do a nice little thing you could do the Smoothster, 57 Chevy from AMT and yes this car was done in real life (Chubby 57) Chezoom is easy as it is in a kit. Aluma coupe... When you start getting off into the real 1 off stuff it's going to get real complicated and time in this. I have been working on a 1/8th scale Boydster 1 and just now got the frame rails right for it. (The body work is not even started) and thats 3yrs of work on and off this project. Also the 1/24th scale is very limited in using any thing from a kit wise with out scratch building every thing. You could do the zz top 33 ford, Any kit that is out in kit wise with out doing a lot of changing would be the easiest way of going on this. You could do the mustange or any of the cars like that. I do not know how much time you are wanting to put into the project or each car, Also I'm not sure on how advance your scratch building skills are as like I said a lot of the 1 off cars or the boydster seires comes a lot of that kind of work. For the fire roadster was a drawing up from Chip Foose but was not for Boyds work. It was for Bobby Alloway's car to start his string of 33 to 34 fords that he built.

What car are you looking for off the show, I have several build up pics of lots of his stuff from "Boydster 1,2 and 3" with all the changes to the 61 Impala that was done on the show. I also have stuff from the last two cars that came out of the shop from the "French Connection" Delahaye to the 29 Ford that was just sold at Barrett Jackson. I also have been working on the last car that a set of wheels was built for as 1 off doing Undsiputed 32 ford with Justin from Scotts Hot Rods. If there is some thing special you are looking for I may be albe to help.

Len, is the mid and high in that paint as compare to "Low tem, Mid Temp and High Temp" This is the only time I come across three part names under Du Pont, and I use a mid temp for the basemaker but do not use any thing els to thin it as this helps on thinning that paint. On the clear, Du Pont has it's own activator each for like Chromasystom, Nason,Crystal Clear,Hot Hues but you can mix match the activator with either one. The only thing is that if you use the cheapest activ, Nason with say like the 7900 Crystal Clear you will have to wait a little longer for drying time and flash time is all. Jeff, Nason is made by Du Pont, it is like GM owns Pontiac. same name behind it, just is the low end of there product line.

Also you could use the two side tape that comes in some of the PE sets, This is very thin stuff and I have collected it for a project and it will be a true rubber time seal. You lay it out on the inside of the window along the body and then put your window in place and this will fourm down into the rubber like a true window does and will be between the body post or top window frame and the window.

I do not recommend putting parts or bodys in Lacquer thinner to clean them off! Purple power or Castrol Super Clean is a lot better to use and will take off every thing up to and also Urethane paints and clears.

As Mark and Steve is helping with the decale stuff, Let me help on putting the model together with very little trouble that I learn from them on here and also talking to them at the GSL shows. First make sure what parts can be put together before painting and such as this helps out so if you use CA clue it does not fog up the clear on you. Also for the harder parts it is better to take epoxy and work with this and do the work as it will dry clear. Then when putting stuff together also look for a spot that you will not be able to see the connecting points of where you use either glue or epoxy. This will make a nicer looking model in the end and a clean look. Tools: use a lot of tooth picks and old xacto blades. This helps to just put the right enuff glue or epoxy where you need it and not to much. Also get a lot of old CD or DVD's that are no good and us them to put the epoxy and glue on. This keeps areas looking good to work with and clean. Also pick up some foam safe insta-set this is for the CA glue and just shoot this on after putting the glue on in the spots. This will also help the glue to not fog up the areas and keep it more clear when it drys. Just a little help. Chas Cochran Deco Rides USA 1/24th Scale

There will be a model car show at the Red Barn show this year on Auguest 6th 2011. Here are the classes: We are add to the class. Box stock,Factory stock, Custom,Street Rod pre 49, Street Machine 50 to present, Commercial, Diorama, The cars of Gilmore Museum (any thing built from the cars of the museum that has on display) Awards to top 3 and Best of Show. Participants chioce awards for the Gilmore car class.Entry to this show is free on entry to the museum and car show. This is a 1:1 car show also that is one of the biggest car shows on the west side of Michigan. Should say top three in each class and best of show over all. This is a Judge show, We will have fly'ers at the Detroit Motorcity Madness show and a few more up and coming show's in the tri state area. If you like one sent to you please email me at shawrides124@yahoo.com I can either email it or mail it out to you. We also just added a new class, For the 100th year of the Chevy we are adding an all Chevy Class for this show. Also here is the link you can check out the museum and see all the dates of car shows. http://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/

Ultra gloss to me is the every day shine that you see an normal car shows on the every day driver. The Wet or Hi End Gloss is what you see on the Trailer queens at the Grand National or Detroit Autorama style shows that are going for the Great 8 award!

Also if every one thinks that Urethane clear only gives you the high gloss look you can get a duller additive for 8oz for $15, In Du Pont its a 4:1 mix with clear or 25% for semi gloss look or 50% to full flat look. This really kills the shine on it but then it leaves you with the nice harden clear that will not scratch or get damage.

any one can come Phil, It is some of the best builders that do go to this show and they are so humble and will help you with any thing you want to try or need to know. I think to get to talk to Mark Jones and them some times you have to take a number as there is a line to them to get to ask them some thing, But no it's a great show and a great family of modeler's that are there every other year!

the polishing kit? Scale Dreams Polishing kit. I still have to send him some to stock up on it is all. By mid to late next week should have some in stock.

No as this would be where your paint line is. You do not want to cut the clear but you will scrap the clear when cutting through the tape. This tape I used is the new 3m tape from the auto body shop and its very thin and I just change the blad twice. What I do, I lay out the flames and then cut from the tip of the flame ( or lick) and go down to the front and make 1/2 circle of the lower part. Then do it on the other side of the lick same way. Take your time as this paint job of cutting it out was close to a 2hr job for me but at the same time I was doing my first ever "How To" using this and really hate doing flames on models.

They are right on the health issues. Be safe with it and it will work out for you, I use Du Pont Hot Hues and also Du Pont 7900 clear now as its a lot thinner and easy'er. Mark D, Jones and a few other talk on this issue seems like about once a month and please talk to them. Mark help me out two years ago as I was trying to go from 1:1 cars to scale with it and the paint jobs now look a lot better because of his help. Now for getting rid of the stuff? I wash it out right after using it with thinner and put it in a coffie can till its full and take it to where they take oil and such for $2 they dump it out for me. For shooting it: I use a Paashe VL double action and shoot it at 12 psi with no thinning needed. Never thin nothing that I do as if you take your time you will not need to thin it. For buffing and sanding, Up till this last build I did for the GSL no I never did but I was turn on to a new product to help buffing and sanding and you will be able to get the kit in the hobbie at scale dreams with in the week. It's a two part step and there is no more final wax used as its in the product with the cutter.

Ph, This is why you put a clear coat on before doing the laying out. This helps keep the blad from going into deep and getting to the other paint under it.

Been working on this since Feb of this year and here is some of the work so far done. http://public.fotki.com/Streetrodcustom/street-rodder-magazine/

Here is mine from the complete trip out to SLC for the GSL XXIII. Or should we say the "John Teresi" Show! Just kidding. But John did a great job at his first show and his models are well over the top and pics do not do them right! Thanks to Gregg and his wife for coming and also doing the show! Take care and see you soon in Toledo! http://public.fotki.com/Streetrodcustom/gsl-xxiii/

That was so cool Gary, Also congrats on all the wins and the Good Guys Award this year. I hope when Mark G finds out who won the Ricky Couch award is yours also. Nice seeing you my friend and take care of that hand!

Need to take off the spindle part and drill out the ball joints so you can get a set of the Cornet spindles that come in that kit. They have a long enuff spindle arm to put them style rims and use brake on and also are long enuff to flow for what you are trying to do. This will take care of the camber problem and place them back down on all fours. Chas Cochran Deco Rides USA 1/24th Scale

Tom Nungester and I are coming in on the 27th also. Bring a lot of new stuff from Scale Dreams and we will have a table this year!

Linburg 61 Chevy, Revell 32 Ford roadster, 55-56 and 57 black widow kit only. All of Heller's kits.

K, GMP i'm going to try and post some pics. Not sure if they will turn out as i'm not the best at taking photos. On the 57 the bumpers show the different shine then the rims. The rims was done from chrome Tech and I did the bumpers on this. Since then I have change the front to the all new chrome that is called antiq chrome look. This is more of a blacker chrome. The good thing about it as you do not have to do any black wash on the parts if you do it just right. This shows the chassis on this car done wrong it was shot too soon and made it dull out. On this one after building another one of the same car. The every thing done but the rims with alsa. With the mirrier you can see where the black in the floor. The bigger the part (like a chassis) it seems it's better to put a mid clear first. I use Futur and dip the chassis in it and let it dry for 3 days. Then shot the urethane over it and the really seem to work great.

Looks like real chrome untill you get to larger parts that I found GMP. The smaller parts looks good and does not look like the kit chrome. I will try to post some pics of the stuff that I have done two year ago till now since I found a little better way of keeping the shine on larger parts.

Howard, The MirraChome is very thin stuff and reminds me of just an over price alcad. I tried this and also there was a few people here using it and they had trouble putting the clear over it as it would dull out to silver like alcad does. The PSI was at 12 to 15psi and they awas working with motorcycle parts. The other stuff that we was talking about you can use any airbursh with it as they sell Badger air brush kits also and talk about doing special paint jobs with this. For Alsa I use airbrush and shoot it at 12 to 10psi and like mirrachrome you do not have to thin it at all. It is ready to shoot right out of the can. But I just like it better as it holds up to clear and shines a lot easy'er is all.