Chas SCR

I have them on CD and also still have the folder. I could upload them maybe this weekend I can.

Here is the one I did for my first ever started model. I was doing the replica of the real car for GSL in 07 and it just seem fitting is all. It had working lights on the display also.

I use NHP from great plains. I learn from a few guys at the GSL 09 to use a brush so it can lay down thinner and also use tooth picks. It's mix 1 to 1.. I was also told to use paint thinner with it to thin with but I have not try'ed this.

I use Dolphin gagues web site. The thing for like new style stuff its hard to get the face you want from the pic, as they have learn that people steel them off the web site so when they take there pics they turn in them a little so you do not have a full face shot. For the older stuff thats a lot easy'er to get done. Then you make a decal and put it in place and clear coat over it.

I agree with Dave and every one its not the gun or brush you use its how and if you know your brush. I have 3 brushes that I use, Just not because I need 3 air brushes but because I have them setup for the different paint, clear and so on with the tips. I use a Paashe VL double for my clear with the tip that came with it stock. The reason I have this one for clear coat is because of no external plastic parts or rubber parts inside. I use another Paashe VL for my primer and sealer coats. Same reason above For paints I use a Iwata eclips with med tip to shoot the paint. And because I like how it lays it down, I just got it back in March so im still learning it a little and feel this is going to be moved to using clear coats also when I get another one.

How about a "Marcel" style 32 Ford Body to go with there rear and front ends of there 1/8th stuff or even a Boydster II 34 Ford body stlye. Plus we 1/8 scale box frame rails for the front and rear on the 32 stuff.

For prepping the body I think we all have are little ways of doing it also.. I normaly soke my bodys in CSC for 2 weeks and then I sand it down and do the body work on it. After that I was shooting it with Touch one Primer from Auto Zone, The Pontiac and the 57 Chevy was done in Du Pont Water base primer. After doing the primer, for example the 57 I shot it with bright white as a sealer or under coat. I do wet sand between coats of primer (normaly 3 coats) and then also 3 coats of under coats. Now this is just what I found is easy for me.

Steve, I do not know what its suppost to look like as shading, You have to remember i'm very color blined on shading of cars, That is why when I did the 61 Chevy that was at the GSL my daughter had to tell me if every thing was shaded the same as I have not idea of it. Now for what the chip looks like to what they gave me could be 2 different things like you said.. But my uncle shows from the pics he has of it and the brochure.. It looks the same to me.. I also do know they had trouble with the blue code number for the mixing machine.. The 4808 also is giving by PPG for a Toyota blue.. Now not saying that is not what they gave us instead of the right blue, But it sounds more like it when talking to older people (not saying your old) but was around some what at that time frame on the colors.

Steve, the PPG # for the paint code are, Blue Lake Blue Metalic #4808 Oyster Gray #4809 There is a another Blue that was on the single paint sheet that is not the same and its also not called the same color blue. For the Gray its as gray as primer when you look at it in the can and after shooting it. Light gray.

That thing looks cool, I like different stuff the people do.

I guess I could move this to the under the glass section now. This was some thing done with the help of a lot of people and started out 5yrs ago up in Detroit with Randy Frost. After 4yrs of talking to two people and also trying to find any thing about this 1 car was like little to none. (Yes I know they did a replica and its in the magazine, Read it fully and you will also see where they say its not 100% right on the car) When they did the real car a few years ago they ran into the same trouble as I did.. Not a lot of pics on this car. (yes there is pics of the car he ran before the Nationals and after but not at the Nationals.) The only pics I was able to find to help was the 1962 Hot Rod Magazine that cover the US Nationals. 2 pics and not up close. Phil Reed was a great help on this project as he has talked to and also taken a lot of notes on Hayden's life in racing. (Yes it was done in urethane clear) Color is Cardinal red. The right rear sping was cut and also added the vavle stems, Cheater slics from Replic Min of Maryland, MCW decales, MCG bel aire PE set. I did the suntach decale for the tach box under the hood. Sanderson headers, I wired every thing but did not run the two wires from the generator to the battery inside the black insulater like you are suppost to. The rear end also has the extra top link on the driver side. The brake lines and fuel line was ran under the car and through the tunnel the right way. The brake lines also have the brass splitters on them (not to shure what the real name of them are) this is what we call them here. R&B Motion spark plug's and boots was added. The dip stick was also added and the extra trim on the trunk that AMT did not put on the body. Under the chassis has the NHRA rules on the muffler and exhaust pipes in stock location up to the front of the rear axel. Note: I know there is ? on if this car had a the 409 on the hood. From the magazine pics does show the top of the hood and it does not have it. Plus Phil said it did not have it on the hood that weekend. I did take a lot of time talking to Phil and also Harold Clay.. This was not an easy job because of nothing being noted as when and where each of the cars was ran or being he exact car.

I know they did not use urethane clears.. That is not a factory built car.. This was built as a model of what he wanted of the car some what he had back in 58 as his first car. This was not to show on what a factory car looks or even comes off the floor as. I do not build factory stuff and the three main guys that have posted on here can even tell you that.

The paper work I have says its a 48 colors.. I may mis understud him on also being able to get it in 49.. We did not have to look at the 49 page. The 2nd page only had 6 colors with 3 sets of two tone. One was a dark green with like a cream white, Yellow/black and the other was this.. But when you go look at the single color page it did not list the gray even being on it. Now I did not take intrest in if the other 4 colors was the same way on being single. I do not go to them for nothing at that store. I was hoping it could have been a Du Pont color but it was not.. The people here at the PPG place is very non help full people.

Brian, Yes it is a Galxie kit. J, thank you, I ask them three times once they mixed it if that was right for the 4808 number. And they told me yes that is what the machine mixed up. I also ask my uncle if that even looked like the right shade of blue and the met is really not that heavy.. Under the sun it you can see it but in the shade and just inside the house it does not really show up. Steve I did go to that web site and just looked around and also a few more. There was a few metalic paints out but not comapre to what we think is a metalic paint of today. Plus the clear I used was a urethane clear and that makes it look even brighter then it was when I shot the paint.

The color's are a 48 late color its oyster gray/ blue lake blue I have the paint code numbers and what they told me on the miltary stuff was from the ppg store here. For being a metalic that is also what it said on the paint chip book at ppg. There is two different code numbers for the two colors as the gray was not offered in by its self in the book plus the blue has a different number once it is in two tone. Steve, The book you are looking at is not a 48, that is 49 chip sheet. The 48 has two pages and the one has list of just all two tones on them. For being metalic The paint code numbers I use was right from Pontiac dealer booklet that my uncle had.. Once my uncle gets home I will go over and get the book that has the paint numbers in it and scan them in for you. For being a Miltary color that was right from the PPG guys here. They may be blowing smoke but at the same time on the print out of the mix the numbers was blacked out.

Charlie, Yes I have talk to Kevin about doing this in resin and I need to get to the other side of the state for a meeting with him soon on this. But not knowing what we would do about the chassis as in resin or just doing the body.

It was my first time at doing a resin block and trans from the revell Vett kit. I think its the 69 Vett with the bbc.. The vavle cover are from the old pack that I still had 12 sets left. The new ones that I redid will be on the next 57 that im doing. Use the trans that came on the sb and just cut and put it on. For the exhaust yes I did the heads down as back drops and then machine up a set of glass packs for it. Has the billet oil filter and air breathers that I machine my self. For the new valve covers I have a ton of them just not have put any on my own stuff as the projects did not call for them.

Thanks Craig, Ya that is a reworked 572 lol. Its the old valve covers over the 427 vette motor. The real 572 would not fit.

Here is build I also did just to take up the time waiting on some stuff to come in for my main project. It's the 57 Black Widow with some mild changes to it. I put chrome trim around all the windows like the Bel Air has and then added the back seat to it. Low'er the front and rear end using the stuff from the Bel Air kit. The color is Du Pont Hot Hues special mix chrom molly orange over yellow base. The yellow gives the red in the color more of a different hue number so it will pop a little more then a white base. The motor is a resin 572 bbc with cross webs. The front and rear bumpers was chrome using alsa Antiqe chrome it was more of test then any thing.

From the first pic on the grill to the car being done you can see I removed the outter bars also. This help open up the gril even more. The dash was a little easy'er but had to have the radio pulled out and put on top of the middle part instead of how the chevys had it. Also I gone ahead and machine and replaced the clock and speedo gauge. The Interior was done in the same color as the real car was. here is the link to all the work I did on it. I'm in the middle right now doing one the right way and having the front end longer and hood longer. http://public.fotki.com/Streetrodcustom/customs/gsl/1948-pontiac/1948-pontiac/

The trim was added to the sides and hood, trunk. The rear and front bumpers was reworked as good as I could get them. The front grill was redone to have the extra little part put in between the two upper bars. The dash was rewored and had to be cut and parts moved around. The rear tail lights was machined by me. The motor is a kitchens straight 8 motor. the exhaust had to be re-ran on the other side so the cross had to be reworked. Also if you look close you can see the Pontiac front side window flar's. The only trim parts I could not do was the hood firecheif part and the scrip on the side of the hood. The front of the hood does have the Pontiac design put in. The pics are to show the front hood trim that has the pontiac section in it. The next pics are the grill parts.

Thanks Mark, Ya it was not my choice of color. The blue was nice and its factory Blue Lake Blue and the Gray is Oyster Gray.. what was real bad was trying to get the gray from PPG.. This is a Miltary owned color and still have the rights to it, The do not even let you have the color code or even the PPG Store here could have the code. They program the computer mixer from there main computer and then it was mixed. What is even worse was that you could only get this in a qrt size and you can only by a qrt a day if you was doing a full size car it would take a little more time.

Here is some thing I just got done last month. A 48 Pontiac converted from the 48 Chevy kit. It has a Kitchens straight 8 motor and the factory PPG 1949 color as this combo was not released till late 48. I did not add to the front end or even did the X chassis to it but it was only for more of a shelf model for my uncle that had his first car back.

Dave is right, Also just to add till you get use to working with the stuff "Pick a brand" and stay with it and work with that till you get use to it. Do not mix brands with PPG Clear with Du Pont harder for there clear. Some brands will have a hardner and a reducer for with there paint and clear and some will not. Also you can put the clear over any kind of paint (enamels and lacquers) and so on. I can not speak for PPG or HOK paints but the Du Pont paints are very thin paints.. You want to make sure you have your body work done right as when you paint it, It will show every little thing wrong. Also the Clear is the same as it magnify every little problem.

Dave, Mark I was not trying to bad mouth PPG.. Do I care about what there recommendation's are "NO". I ask for what Ratio did he come up with for what product and Dave and My self has been the only one to say what we us... For how I do it and what I put up here is the minimum working with there product.. Once you shoot the clear you have a 0 to 4hr window to put another coat, If you miss the 4hr window you must wait 72 hrs to do another coat.. You can start your wet sanding and buffing min of 2hrs after shooting it. If you wait with Du Pont (Dave's way) You would have a lot of extra work ahead of you... This was also stated from another person that has done good at the GSL Tom Nungester who is a body paint person for a living. Now Dave congrats to you on all your awards over the years.. But at the same time I do not think a lot of people here has 4 months to wait.