Chas SCR

Also a little note: Take urethane paint instead of adding a hardener use lacquer thinner to dull it a little if you are putting it on interiors or even to tone down a paint job. Makes them dry faster then what they are suppost to and it cuases it to dull.

I use the Du Pont chromabase and then Urethane clear. Also a base coat can give another solid color a different Hue (this is the number that the paint gives out to either be brighter or darker)... Say if you want to brighten up a red that you have and really would want it to pop out then spray down a bright yellow as a base and then go over it with the red. The Yellow under the red will bring out the Hue in the red. I should have said it raises the HUE number in the red so it will be brighter then normal.

Just a big wave they think will be getting to Gregg about 11:20 est time. Hope he and every one makes it out ok.

Harry that is the room for some of the Crown Bergers that we are going to have as we eat and watch the thread make it to page 20!

I really want to see a siminar at the GSL on a how to on this can you do this for us? Or do we have to pay to learn how to put the gas on the hood of a model and light it up!

I guess I will get into it after I have done a leather interior on my "Concept 36". After doing it one time (and only one time) was enuff for me as it was a true pain in the rear. I talk to a lot of great builders at the GSL, Mark Jones and Martin and also I may have talk to Mark Tyler (just do not remember sorry) I have seen there work in person and talk to them on how they did this and did that. For one if you think these guys would hold any thing back or lie about what they do is your loss. I have found the only leather that is thin enuff to do some thing in 1/24th scale is at Jo Ann Faberic and its in swade leather. The hard leather was way to thick! Like I said I did this one time and after talking to Mr Cummings and a few others at the GSL they show'ed me how to get the look with out doing it in leather. Now for this Air Brush Chrome or Water Base Chrome! After GSL XXII where I seen first hand his Chrome car and every time I tryed to talk to Dave about it, it seem he was very secretive about this. ( I Like Dave do not get me wrong he and I have talk about a few things and help people on other stuff like the Lathes and Mills) But I do and would have to see this first hand as there is a place down in KY that has water base Chrome Platting. They will also convert your air brush over to the same type of air gun that they sell. Look up Gold Touch Inc. it is called Cosmichrome Spray Chroming. The one thing I can say thank you to Dave is for making me go out and want to fine some thing better or a little less cheaper then sending out to Chrome Tech. Do not get me wrong I still use Bob and he is great on some thing and yes the stuff I found does not shine like that but its worth it if you are wanting to do your own and have a factory look Chrome. Spend the $$$$ and go to Alsa and there is a little cheaper way of getting around that big price if you like to know I will tell you. But this is the only Chrome Pant that you can clear over with out dulling it.

Would have like it better if you did this about two years ago! lol then I would not have had to do french stitch leather interior to the 36 I did.

Dave and Cal for under a grand I would recomend in getting it to start and work with till you would want to go to a bigger one. This would be a great way for some one to buy it as a setup then trying to part one together!

Kar, you sure sound like a spokes men for Sherline! They are not the best of the best in the world, Like you even said you pay for what you get! Sherline is ok for a very small parts and such and yes they are made here in the USA. But also if you look into some thing like the Jet or Shop Fox mill/or lathe you can get more you for your money then what you are going to spend on trying to do with the sherline. Also Sherline does not offer a complete computer with there system so you have to pay for that and hope that he program does not burn up the mother boards of today's computers. 2x or 4x mother boards. Lets see.. Buy a Sherline Say Lathe $700, You get a MT1 tail stock, Drill chuck and arber and mini drill Chuck addapter ( Drill Chucks do not go down to hold any thing under a #78 drill. So them three things is $90 not counting your drill bits. Tooling for a lathe around $40 for good insert tool bits or $28 for C5. Then if you go to C-N-C controals you have to upgrade it with mother board controals and also Computer nearing another $1400 with out program. Good Program $600. Shop Fox-- MT2 tail stock with same as above $45 complete. Lathe with Computer and every thing plus quick change tool post $1875 at the door. If you have any trouble call Blue Ridge they are one of the top Dealers around for them also they can get any thing for you and if they do not have it they can fine it for you. Never had any trouble from Blue Ridge.. Oh ya also Shop Fox and Jet does not use Belts for motor driven like a sherline does. Buy a little bigger then what you want and then you never out grow it. Buy to small and you will wish you pay'ed the money the first time and got what you wanted!

Are you trying to build a model just to put up or a contest model? There is two ways of building on this as yes the contest stuff gets fitted and such before any thing gets painted and do more of like a build up of it and then torn down and painted and built. To me if its going to be a show style model like a trailer queen build.. I take every thing that is going to be on color paint them together and then move on so every thing gets done at one time. For the body it is more the body and hood at one time so you can make sure it is the same shade of color if you are working with pearls and metalic's.

Cal here is the trouble when I was getting ready to buy a new one also. The accessories for any thing doing with the MT1 tail stock and such is a lot more pricey, more like double the price for what MT2. Also doing a part by part on a C-N-C will cause more trouble as I did this using the Unimate and there program was not very nice to the mother boards with the new computers as I burn up two of them in 8 months of having it. I sold what was left of the stuff and just gone out and pay'ed just under $2k for every thing. This is the Lathe and program and Computer all in one and it was also with fraight to my door step and setup for me from them. I'm very happy with what I have from Shop Fox! You put the Jet in the same being made by the same people as Harber Fraight? NO Nothing from Jet will work with HF... Jet and Shop Fox will work together and for the money and getting stuff the only thing I can say I did wrong is with the lathe I did not pay extra $300 and gone with the next biggest one that takes the MT3 stuff as there is a lot more of it to work with and it cost a lot less then the MT2 stuff.

Jet and Shop Fox are the same just under two names but one main company. Also Blue Ridge Machinery out of WV, carries every thing you need for the mini Lathe and Mills. they also beat the price what every one els wants for there accessories. Also you can hook up a Grizzly C-N-C mother board to them and use there stuff or just buy out right a C-N-C with computer and Mill or Lathe combo.

If it put it into a different class I would not see any harm. Now just adding things like that to me is not enuff of a change to keep it in the same class. I go by the 60% rule on this.

Jet has a good small mill. When buying stuff like this remember its what you pay for!

Need a new Jacket as its cold up here in Michigan! LOL

How about a good 30s and 40s Pontiac's and Chevys. Would like to see a 32-34 Chevy kit and a 29 Plym kit.

Gregg how much is the jacket? and if we order it now can we pick it up at the NNL East?

I would have to say no and yes on this. If its a car say a Street Rod and you enter it as that the first year and but the car also could have gone into Custom then bring it back and try at that class. If it is just a one class car then no. There is also the issue on rebuilding the car and making it better, You could do this and to say bring the same car back but you are just bring back a new'er built one of the same. Street rod, Street Machine and Custom are the three great classis as you can inner swap with them a lot of times with the same model.

Not sure on when Chevy did start with there x frame's for there convertible's but Pontiac had an x frame since 46. For the motor if you are putting in a straight 8 there is one in resin, if you go to the 6 you can start with the motor out of the Galixie 48 Chevy kit and just cut the bell housing off and turn the block around and build it like that as every thing is on the other side from a chevy.

Len you could alway build two identical cars so you can enter two classes. How about upping it to Three in 2011?

Ran a lap at Nobilsville IND IKF Street Race series for 5hp Brig Stock class in 89 at 142mph to set the 1 lap world record for 7/8th mile. Ran a Outlaw Super Late Model at Toledo down the back straight at 150+ in 94. Street wise not much over the speed limit as I do not care to kill some one with being stupid like so many others.

Pat if you guys want more room as two in a room let me know! I'm the only one in mine right now.

Who is going and who is planning on going? I have a room from Thursday to Sunday if some one would like to share just send me a message. I will also be looking for some one to help me as I tore the cartlidge in my left knee and barely can walk right now. Also the Hotel room is at the Host Hotel and it would be real cheap lik $35 a night if you like to share it.

I will be getting into town on Thursday night around 5 or so Bill. Can not wait either, If you have nothing to do friday morning and would like to go with me down to Delahaye USA shop let me know.

Congrats to Mr 1/16th on the award!