Chas SCR

Also let me rephrase this, That is the prosses for each part and the body and also the chassis. The only real parts that will not be painted are the bolts and nuts and also the top, bottom of the coil spring cones and also the shock body its self. Every thing els is being done in tripples other then the body as I could only find 1 of these bodys and it took for ever to even get this one.

Nope, Body has to be primer and wet sanded 3 more times before any other color goes on then it gets 2 coats of black and wet sanded between the coats and then the Sunset Bronz goes on for 5 coats with wet sanding between them. Clear 2 coats and then tap off the black on the top back by the spoiler as this has just a little detail on that and then the Red Alluera will be put on the top, rear section part by the tail lights, motor bay, and interior top. Then clear 2 coats wet sand and then 2 good coats of clear over it all to seal every thing in. Then have to go back under the rear inner fenders and paint the Du Pont hot rod flat black into the emboss parts and then do the small detail stuff under the hood before it can be complete'ly done for the body. The body should be in black by mid next week or late next week.

The top pic shows the real car from RPM Hot Rods, They have been great to work with side by side on this project and also if you have face book you can follow along on there page as they are hosting some of the work that is going on. The center one is showing the rims that are done, They started life as Pegusius rims and then modified to there rims and then put into resin. The fronts are 19s with 23s in the rear, The last pic till later this after noon is the body work showing the front part of the car that is done and flush fit for the bumper, the rear spoiler as it is very little and hard to see as it flows with the body and paint lines also in the center pic you can see how the front end was stretch .100 so the wheel opening will flow with the rims. Since this pic I have smooth out the rocker panal and did some more under the front fenders so the swaybar and tie rods will fit into place. The rear end on the frame also has been worked on this moring getting in the nascar swaybar that will also be a working part.

Here you can see the coil over shocks for the rear, They are from R&B Motion with my own shock as it has to be .075 shorter then there shortest one they offer, Plus I made it to have an O ring in side and it has 80 weight RC car shock oil. The center pic here shows the seats as I was making them and they was made out of the outer shell of a parts box seat and had the center section cut out and replaced with my own work using flat plastic and then the pattron was scrib in to it and then put into resin. Also you can see the roll cage now has been painted and fitted to the floor pan and waiting for the center bar to be finsh. The last pic shows all the work done to the rear before going into resin and was fitted in place so I could get the angle of the rear trailing arm right. Each part has been embossed to have a nice flow to the frame. Also you can see the drive shaft loop with the exhaust holes put in so they are tight to the frame and floor. This also acts to hold every thing in place after being bolted in.

The top pic is the 4 link arm that is now welded on to the rearend tube. This will have the trailing arms and also the shock hook to it. The center pic is what it looks like right now with all the embossing done to it this will high light a little more detail after it gets painted. the bottom pic is the inner rear fenders as it has the same design theme as the full rearend and the fuel tank and roll pan for the rear.

This car will have full working front and rear end with a working Nascar swaybar located in it. The shocks are a combine parts with the spring and eyelets from R&B motion and shock in the center I machine my self for the right size with rubber o rings in side with oil. The body has 14 modifications done to it from lowing a pie cut to widen the rocker panals out and stretching the wheel base at the front fenders. The motor is in full resin and was redone from the LS7 motor and has a few things changed to be replicated for this project. The interior pan is from the 66 nova kit with seats being made and in resin also with a full custom roll cage. Dash was made full custom with just the top pad part of the dash from the 66 nova kit was left. The center console was scratch built and so was the back seat console. The frame is 80 from the 66 nova kit with full custom parts being made and a change to the front end area. The rear has detail added and the center drive shaft cover will be bolted in place. The rear end start life custom made using sheet plastic for all the parts and then put into resin once I got every thing lined up. The body work has more detail work under the fenders in front and back and also there is a spoiler added into the body work in the rear. The grill has been taken apart from the bumper and then re attatched with two diffrent black paint and clear coats. So far this has been in the works for about 8 months now and hope to have it done by mid March of 2013.

Hello every one, I been off here for a long time and now i'm back into building again. This car is for the guys at the RPM Hot Rod and is base on the real car called "Runt". I am a lot farther ahead then what the photos right now will be seen as I do have over 200 photos taken of each part being made and body customized.

If you are looking for a custom Zephyr, RMR makes one base on the 1939 Scrape using the parts from the 41 Lincoln kit from Revell.

Randy, for the first time there you really will get blown away on how great of a show it is and how great the people are and helpful. Exspect to spend a lot of time from sun up to weee hrs in the morning talking to some of the best builders around and then on Sunday noramly after it's all done a lot of guys get together and split up and go sight seeing.

Du Pont for every thing! Will be using BASF for one project that is being built now.

BTW, on the 1:1 W engines, the intakes do not interchange between the 348 and 409/427. There's a slight difference in the head machining that prevents it from working. You can use the 348 tri power intake on the small heads 409/380hp,The 409/409 motor heads is when they left out a bolt on each head or you could fit the intake on them. If you want to do a 348 just put the dipstick in the right location and that is true'ly the only way to tell on the out side of a stock motor that has not had the oil pan changed. A lot of people now that has the 348s are using 409 oil pans so they do not have to fight of having the stick just under the brake master.

I never had the kit so I do not know! I just know from the list of motors you can get from the kits to build the 4 diffrent ones that was out in a factory style car.

If you want to see all three 409s build you can do this in model related now, Get a AMT or Linburg 409, There you have the normal 409/409hp, Get the new Revell Impala 409 and you have the service pack 2 or later know'n as 409/425hp.. You can see the high rise difference in the manifold. Take either block and use the Z-11 goodies that came in AmT 62 Bel Air that should have been in the 63 Impala and make your self the 409 Z-11 motor. You can also get the AMT 63 Impala to make the litte 380hp 409 with the single carb.

Chevy, 502 and 572 are complete diffrent size block then the old 454 and 427. For the W 427 this was not a perduction motor and could not be listed as a normal motor in 63. The Pre-Z11 kits front fenders, hood, and front bumper only was also given out to 25 team drivers in 2nd week of Aug of 1962 so they could be ready for the US Nationals at Indy, A few of them ran them at the Detroit Worlds the week before Indy and also the first full 409/425hp service package two motor came in a car starting of Aug of 62. Also Chevy had some crazy motor sizes in the mid 80s till the early 90s, Book would say one thing and the math would say some thing els when you was rebuilding it. Seen a few 331, 305,307,302. Pontiac also had 301,326,400 421 Some Ford motors also was the 488 Gorilla truck motor you could get as a crate motor in the 70s and early 80s. Dodge or Ply, 318,340,360,

Will be coming in Sat morning, Meeting up at the dinner with Z-man and Ron. Looking forward to seeing every one on the east side of the state friends from all over. Chas Cochran Deco Rides USA 1/24th Scale

What kit did you win? I know a few casters and what they like to keep in there line as it's like some will do race cars, Some will do Coatch built cars and some street rods and then a couple will do customs and so on. Each caster stay's with in there own line some what and have a few people building masters of what goes in there styling. Chas Cochran Deco Rides USA 1/24th Scale

Auto Air is a good paint and you do not have to clear it before putting decales or even BMF on. If you let it dry long enuff the stuff gets as about as hard as any thing els. Plus when you go to clearing it you have to make sure its dry to the point of not changing shades of color on you. You can really sit there and watch this happen. I worked with the stuff right when it came out for 3yrs and like it to a point but it still has it's down falls. The only clear to really bring out it's true color is urethane clear. I now use only Du Pont paint and clear, If there is some thing in other brands then I shoot it on a pannal and have it scan so it can be made from Du Pont paint. The main thing is stay with all one brand from Primer to clear as if some thing happens then you can ask and get the right answer! If you start mixing brands then its really a guessing answer then any thing.

Put a couple good coats on it then wet sand from 3200 to 12000, Then either you can clear again or you can polish it and it will bring a shine to it.

Just got the magazine this weekend and it looks great, Like the part by part on the Randy Derr Sprint car that really helps on some stuff of knowing how to do things. Chas Cochran Deco Rides USA 1/24th Scale