Chas SCR

Thanks guys, But this will not be done in time for Indy at the end of the month. To much little detail to do it it still.

Getting closer to having the clear coat put on. 1 to 2 more days of little fine detail work on the body and he will be heading in to get the greatest part of the painting done.

use take xacto blade cut off where the tip that goes to the fan. Take the same size sold platic rod and cut just about a 1/16 and glue that to where the fan use to go to. This is the cap that will make it look like the electric water pump.

Pic 1 Here is the air breather box for "Runt" this will have a two into one hose line hooking up the valve covers so the motor can breath. Pic 2 I had to get a 0/40 squarls tail brush today so I could do the out line of the black. This helps bring out the panels more but Curtis from RPM and I both agree it made it look a little off with the black. Pic 3 The only spot on the body its self that has a black paint other then the window trim, or in the engine bay area. Helps brake up the red and bronz so the spoiler can be seen from above.

Here is 2011 trip for GSL and with the great people of Detroit the club elected me to take the Nova to have it put into the museum. I'm very honor of this great trip and also having Steve Perry there and ask'ed him to join me for this photo.

Model car Garage has a PE set that has some thing like that in one of them.

All I was going off of your statement and you said you have to keep putting on flake!! (For metallics, as soon as I've got the flake laid down to my likng )

Putting the R's all in there spots. .030 sure looks big once you get them away from each other.

The badging done on "Runt" only took 5 of them till I was able to cut it out and not cut into the R or take of the top of the T at all. This is only .050 tall and .100 long.

Ace, the only reason why you have to shoot flakes more then normal is because you are shooting it at the part your painting. You do not shoot metal flake at the part or the body because of that issue you just said (clumping)... Next time shoot over the body not at the body and see how that looks for you.

I use a diffrent angle but at the same time Mark Jones help me a little as I never use to polish out the clear. I use only urethane paints and clears so here is how I do it. 1 Primer, wet sand from 1500 to 12000 and do this same step 3 times. 2 color coat or sealer coat. then wet sand 2000 to 12000 repet steps no less then 3 times and no more then 5 times over. 3 Clear coat. and then wet sand from 2400 to 12000 do this for 3 coats. then use cutter #1 from 3m then use #2 wax and buff. (you can get the kit from scaledreams.com) This replaces all wax and rubbing compunds that are out there also for the high end show car style stuff they do not use wax any more on the cars. There is a #3 3m step but do not have to go any farther then the #2 step.

There is still a lot they could do to a 32 Ford if they wanted to bring it in today's styling of show cars. There is already to many aftermarket and kit parts to bash any thing from the 50s and 60s and so on style.. All that is a cookie cutter cars that 99% of the people build of that car. Look around and see what they have done from Rizzo and such in there shops in the last 5yrs to a 32 ford and build that! If you can do that then you have moved away from the great fall of any thing that has seen as a bluh bluh same'ol same'ol 32s.

Very nice'ly done and looking forward to seeing every thing work right!

I also guess I should explain that there is 3 3 digit numbers that are in each color as it compare to the hue number. They are normaly broken down as a High .000 number and mid .000 number and low .000 number. When you mix paint to make a color say we take the 1950 Plymouth black. This Black is the only true black paint ever to have the middle number at .000 on the hue chart. This means it takes this one color a .100 High and another color .100 mix the two to get a .000 in the middle to make the most perfict black. Now if you mix it a little off the number will drop down say a little more of the high color. .100 Mid will change say .005 and the low number will go down to a .095 and this will give it a diffrent hue look under the light. Now not much can be seen with the naked eye on this issue with some colors but when you put another color on it. You can great'ly change the mid and low number and move it all to the high end and make stuff pop harder or brighter.

Mine is now the 61 Chevy Impala that I did for Boyd Coddington in spring of 07. I started building models in 03 and since I was able to get this car back to be after he passed away in 2009 and rebuilt it twice since then to keep it nice and clean looking. I sold my first ever car did two months ago to a friend who collects willys and that was a 41 chop top custom.

White primer will make red "pop" much better than ruddy brown. Primer has little to do with this as use what is also called a sealer coat. This can be Black,Yellow,White are the three main ones as Black helps darken a Hue number as White helps brighten a hue number. But for red to pop Yellow under a red will make the Hue number jump higher then any other color number on the chart. This number that i'm talking about is called a Hue number in the color spectrum. You really like to make a red get brighter then any thing you seen and I'm talking about a normal red for testing use a yellow under it and see you like that.

Thank you very much Art! I hope every one enjoys it as much as I do building it and showing the stuff to people.

When the real "Runt" is driving away from you this is all you see as a badge on the car. So this is the same lettering and Font that they used. Here is a sheet of just R's lay'ed out and I will post a pic on how they go on to the body Runt. All them R's has a circle around it and has the +. They are done to exact 1/24th scale of this art work.

You mean like a Sweet or Port City spindle?

In HS we was one of 3 schools in Michigan to have the first C-N-C mills and lathes, So they offer a 3yr deal if you take the class all HS you get your apprenticeship program and then added on extra 3hrs a day my sr year for programing class and then after HS I got a job at Denso USA as I'm working there I also took class for Industrial Engineering Design at that time was a 2yr degree.

The hime joints,bolts and nuts from R&B Motion. Not sure if they took the car out too drag week or not. I know it made the rounds at Goodguys shows for the Autocross contest starting with 2011 Goodguy Nationals and then was in the Optima Ultimate Street Car deal in vegas at the end of the year. The car then was taken back to RPM where it was touched up and made its first ever indoor car show last winter and won there class.

Very nice Mark! I wish it was a full detail kit.

Me at ORP this summer running my first open wheel car since 1990. ICAR Modified.