Straightliner59

Thank you, Anton!

When I apply decals, I brush the Micro Set onto the spot I'm applying the decal. Then, I get the decal into final position, and flow a tad more under the edges. After a few minutes, I brush on the Micro Sol. I let that just sit. Sometimes, it wrinkles the decal. Don't panic! It almost always flattens back out, and conforms tightly to the curves of the underlying surface. The decal film goes on before anything else. I apply it while the entire sheet is still intact. I typically wait 30-45 minutes, to let it dry. As always, if there are decals on the sheet you aren't using for your project, it's best to test with one of them, because decals aren't all the same, unfortunately. Hope this has helped! Good luck!

I love this project! Very nice work, Dave!

Yes, this is a great one!

Others may have seen this, but, I just stumbled across it: https://fuelcurve.com/1970s-pro-stock-drag-racing/

I appreciate this input. My favorite of the ones I've tried is the "bubble" type, like in the later Pro Stock kits. That one looks best, but, it's not in my timeline. I'll likely go with one of the more standard designs, built from the thinner sheet. I'm guessing that the theory behind this design was to create a "ram" effect, from air coming off the car's nose? I wish I still had a few of those old National Dragsters, from back then. I got the tach wired and mounted to the dash. I originally printed a 5" gauge, but decided there was no way it was going to fit, up there! So I ended up with this 3 1/4" tach. I found a couple of wiring diagrams that showed black, yellow and green, so I used Detail Master detailing wire, to replicate that. I have some armature wire that's smaller, but getting paint to stick to it just doesn't happen!?

The engine looks excellent! I like the anodized blue hat. Nice work, Ian!

Looking great, John Michael. Does the starter pulley get a bracket, similar to the one on a blower?

That class could get a lot more popular, given the influx of new bodies. I think I saw the headline on Drag Race Central. They haven't been running TAD and TAFC at the Mile Highs, for a few years, now.

That's a possibility. At least I don't have to decide by tomorrow, or anything!

Here are the pieces for the tach assembly. The gauge face is printed from Auto Meter's site. I turned the body on the lathe. The base is soldered brass angle. Here's the scoop I've been working on. I built it from .015" stock--kit scoops are too thick! I'm not sure if I'll go with this one, or try something else. Comments, questions and critiques are welcome and appreciated. Thanks for looking!

Thank you, Dennis. I am about to get the tach finished, to mount on top of the dash, then it'll be completely done!

I believe I read, recently, that NHRA will allow injected nitro FCs, in TAFC, maybe next year?

You sir, deserve a round of applause! It sounds like a tedious and time-consuming task, and you made it through. I love that you varied the sizes of the rivets. It looks great, as does the entire project. Very well done!

Here's the one I found. It's a Super Comp car. Like I said, MPC 'Vette FC, injected Big Block Chevy, and you're in the building! Again, I'm looking forward to watching your project come along.

Alclad Chrome over Walmart's Color Place Gloss Black spray (yes, from the can!).

This isn't really a tool or technique, but, it's served me well, over the years. When I go to a hobby shop, if there aren't any kits I "have" to own, I buy scratchbuilding materials--Evergreen, Plastruct, brass and/or aluminum tubing. Over the decades, I have accrued enough materials, that I rarely find an instance, where I don't have the stock I need. If you make a list of stuff you do, or don't have, you won't end up with say, four packages of .020"X.040" Evergreen strip, like somebody I know!? I'd also add to keep your eyes open for "found" scratchbuilding materials--things like various wire, broken car turn signal lens plastic (can be used to carve and shape into the same, for scale models), and other miscellaneous items can be picked up, for nothing, and can be very useful.

That's it! It's cool, too, because when you brush it on, it might look a little sloppy--no worries! It dries to a super-thin coat.

Thank you, John! I like projects that most others don't bother with--like injected nitro FCs!

I'm in! I You're off to a nice start. Injector manifold looks good! I found one, recently, while I was researching for my Super Gas Vega project that I want to do an "inspired-by" of. It will be based off of an MPC Corvette FC--either the Firefighter, or the other of that body style, as opposed to the later '84-bodied kit. The car was called Da Big Kahuna, and you'd swear that the body and chassis for the model were practically copied from it.

You're right, Dwayne, the original is about 1/22nd, or 1/22.5 scale, as I recall.

That's pretty much all I have used for almost 40 years. You should be happy with them, as they're very good products.

Mark was always helpful to anyone he felt was an eager "listener". Meaning that he'd go out of his way to help anyone who was asking, if he believed they were serious about learning the answer. He was an excellent modeler, too. Glad he helped you back "in"!

Get yourself a bottle of Microscale Liquid Decal Film. It works beautifully at saving old, flaky decals. All you do is brush it on and let it dry. It's available through most of our favorite sources!

Thanks, Ian. I sure am glad I kept all those old magazines! Thank you, Francis. I kind of figured you were busy, given the time of year. Glad to hear from you! I used an alcohol lamp for the thermo-forming. I just heat the stuff until it softens until I think it will form. There's no science to my method, at all. I've had success with it, but, I have ruined some plastic, too.? I'll be looking forward to seeing your next creation! Thanks kindly for your support, my friend!