StevenGuthmiller

Trumpeter had brass photo etched folding hinges in their '60 Bonneville kit. I don't know how well they would have worked, and to be honest, I can't say that I've ever seen anyone use them. Steve

Thinking that I finally have the removable magnetic hood hinges pretty much wrapped up. Steve

Thanks much guys!! Steve

I'm not certain, but I believe that the vanity mirror on this vintage of Pontiac was just a mirror fastened to the visor, unlike today's mirrors, with a hinged cover. So, I guess you could say that it is functional. Steve

Any spare bits of wire that you can scrounge up here and there will work for various different hoses and wires. Strip the jacket off of a single strand silver wire and you have fuel line or material for carburetor linkage or return springs. As far as clamps go, you can pretty easily make your own from thin strips of aluminum from a soda can bent to shape. Steve

Try the Q-tip to soak the smudge, and then maybe try one of the small conical Tamiya type swabs to rub off the glue. They’re smaller and harder than a regular Q-tip. Might be just the ticket. Steve

If it’s just the Testors “Clear Parts Cement” it’s not much different than Elmer’s. It just tacks up a little faster. In any case, it’s a water based glue, so as others have said, get it wet with a Q-tip, let it soak for a few minutes, (maybe even let the wet Q-tip sit on the affected area for a while) and then try rubbing it off with a Q-tip before resorting to a tooth pick, or anything that could scratch the plastic. In the future, try using a few thin strips of a fairly easily removed tape like Tamiya to tape the window into position in a few key areas. Then, using a tooth pick, or other thin applicator, apply something like an epoxy glue around the perimeter in the areas that are absent of tape. Once the epoxy is solidly set, remove the tape and fill the remainder of the perimeter with more epoxy. Your glass will be permanently and very strongly fastened in place, with little possibility of smudges or finger prints. Steve

Looks a lot different than the last time I saw it! ? Nice job Al. Steve

Steve

Whatever it is, (I'm also guessing 'Cuda) it was apparently a Hemi equipped kit, with the torque boxes and all. Steve

Well, it is a badger, but I believe that they have fur on the outside. ? Steve

Yes. I’m using the top from the ‘62 Buick annual for my ‘64 Bonneville project. Also required some mods, but it was fairly close from the start. Steve

Agreed. Just thought that I would post some actual comparison photos so that the OP knew what he was facing should he decide to go this route. No sense in taking the time to hunt one down if you don’t want to put the work into it. Steve

I remember sitting in the back seat at 5 or 6 years old and hearing the click every time the lights were changed, but not being able to figure out how my dad was doing it. Steve

I thought about it, but......nah. Steve

The Monogram ‘59 Impala top is a hair too wide at the front, and considerably too long for the AMT ‘62 Impala. As is usually the case, modifications will be required for a correct looking fit. Steve

Today I headed into the shop for a couple of hours and fabricated a set of sun visors. I was thinking of using the visors from the Monogram '59 Impala kit, but the seemed a little over sized. So, out came the sheet styrene and the sprue. Steve

Shapeways offers a "G" window up top for the AMT '62 Impala convertible, but it'll cost you almost $40.00! Steve

Thanks guys! Being as this will be an open car with the entire interior in full view, I thought that I would add as many little details as practical. Most of these little parts are pretty simple and quick to make, so I figured, why not? Steve

Same wheels as in the MPC ‘68 Coronet kit? Steve

Not that I’m aware of. There are resin casters and 3-D printers that offer various parts and kits, but nothing on the scale of Modelhaus. Steve

If it’s a shade of brown that I like, I prefer to call it “bronze”. ? Steve

Just completed a trade with "RSchnell". Everything went like clock work. Perfect! Steve

I like a lot of different greens. Leaning more towards the aqua shades, or dark or light greens. But I agree, it seems that green can have many more ugly shades than most other colors. Some cars just seem to look "right" in certain shades of green, but nothing looks right in the "Kermit" green that we're discussing in my opinion. Steve

Thanks guys. Got a bit more time in the shop here and there over the past week or so, and I think I'm finally winding things down on the added interior details. I removed the control pedals from the Moebius '61, thinned down the shafts and got them set up to fit the '64 dash, and then I made a few extra detail parts, including a floor dimmer switch, an emergency brake release handle, and a pair of vent knobs, along with their corresponding mounting brackets. A couple more interior pieces need to finished up, and then I need to decide if I want to shave some window cranks from an existing kit's door panels, cast some, or scratch build them. I think I'm going to at least investigate scratch building them. Steve