StevenGuthmiller

Nothing to do with the screen size. It’s only on the main page of each category. No other pages, or anywhere else. It’s definitely a site issue. Probably another add related problem. Steve

It is an AMT “Junior Craftsman” kit. Basically the snap kit of the day. Steve

These are the first that I remember. Steve

Just another older build with new pics. Steve

These are a couple that I did using nothing more than black primer shot from a distance and rubbed out. Steve

I'm on a desk top, and mine is doing the same thing, but only on the main page. No add blocker. I tried the "theme" thing. When I change it, I just have gray bars on both sides. Whatever. Steve

Alclad black base is not required to use Alclad chrome, or other metal finishes. Any shiny black base will work just fine. I usually use any black that I happen to have on hand, (dark blue, even better) and then, depending on how glossy it is, I'll shoot a coat of Testors gloss enamel over it. Steve

Honestly, I never really understood the masking tape vinyl top thing anyway. For anyone who has ever had a vinyl top on a car, you know that the grain on the vinyl is pretty fine. It's designed to replicate the grain of real leather. Reduce that grain to 1/25th scale, and masking tape texture would probably equate to a cow about 100 feet long and 50 feet high! Masking tape texture is no where near close to being in scale for a 1/25th scale vinyl top. Here are a couple of photos, (relatively close up ones at that) of 1:1 vinyl tops. Even this close up, it's hard to see any sort of texture at all. Reduce that 25 times, and you don't get this. Looks closer to the 1:1 texture than 1/25th scale IMHO. Steve

If you have an airbrush and don't want to order or buy new paint, you can just mix your own using enamels or acrylics. If you're not a perfectionist, basically any orange will do the trick. I mix my own engine colors often using Testors flat enamels, thinned with lacquer thinner and then clear coated to achieve the desired shine. I look at Chrysler and Chevy orange as being basically interchangeable, as I do Mopar, and early 60s Buick and Pontiac turquoise/blue. I get it, they're all a little different, but even looking at photos of 1:1 engines on line is going to get you several variations for each color. Honestly, I could never quite understand the obsession that some modelers have with exact, correct engine colors, and yet they consider some Tamiya paint color "close enough" for a factory stock body color. Steve

Keep in mind that the engine colors had changed by ‘71. The bronze engine color was gone by that time. Steve

Not to be “that guy” but I went through all of the research when I did my ‘68 W-30, and found that the 400 engine in the ‘68-‘69 W-30 was painted a bronze color. Gold was the color used on the 350. Not that it’s that big of a deal, but if you’re looking for factory correct, it’s something to consider. As I said, I don’t want to be that guy, but I always appreciated this sort of information during the course of a project, if not to change it this time, at least I would have the information for any future projects. Steve

Yes. There are always mold lines, sink marks, and other imperfections that need attention, plus the fact that I usually will re-scribe most of the trim and panel lines, so the body will usually get plenty of sanding action before beginning primer coats. Steve

Sorry to get back to you so late, but I was out of town over the weekend and not paying attention to the board. The tires pictured above are some of the Modelhaus Johan promo reproductions. Steve

Of all of the after market parts providers out there, Kris is one of them that you don’t have to worry about. Steve

WAY better than the AMT kit was ever designed to look!! Steve

Use different tires. The original Johan tires aren't that great anyway, and there are a lot of much better looking alternatives. Steve

Just a smart phone. Steve

I use Micro-Mesh pads. Steve

Or you can cheat and do all of your sanding and polishing after the final clear coat like I do. I hate sanding more than anything, (probably due to the 25 years that I was a drywall subcontractor) So I prime, paint and clear without any sanding whatsoever between coats, unless I happen to have some junk that needs to be sanded out. Once the final clear coat is finished, (I usually use about 5 coats of Duplicolor clear right out of the spray can) then I polish using Micro-Mesh pads, (usually starting at about 3,600 and working towards 12,000) followed by Novus polish. It usually goes pretty well for me, and I can save myself a WHOLE lot of sanding. Steve

New pics. The '60 Edsel Ranger on it's own. Steve

Another older build that was in need of some new photos. Steve

Yes, I have taken part in some discussions about the discrepancies with the AMT kit, and the consensus seems to be the the model was being developed at the same time as the 1:1, and apparently the early drafts of the real vehicle may have had the same discrepancies, but were changed late in the process. Too late for the kit’s molds to be changed. I have no proof that this is the case, but it makes sense, as the models were developed at this time using actual factory drawings and specs, and were introduced around the same time, and changed every year, just like the real deal. Steve

AMT produced this kit in 1958 only. Steve

I'm not much of a Mustang fan, but this one absolutely grabs you by the collar and shakes you. The color is what does it for me. But then again, I'm a sucker for weird colors. Steve