StevenGuthmiller

Steve

Trying to make a tire decision for my '64 Bonneville, so I thought I would throw the question to all of you. The wide whites wouldn't be standard anymore by 1964, but I sort of like them? The medium white walls would probably have been the most likely standard tire at this time. I'm kind of leaning towards the narrow whites? What do you think? Steve

Duplicolor paints have the tendency to fog or blush regardless of humidity, but it's easily rubbed out as a rule. Either that or a clear coat will generally eliminate the blushing. Steve

All chassis appear to be exactly the same. No X bracing on the convertible. Steve

Hmmm. Didn’t everybody just break the parts off of the trees? I still use that “technique” today, depending on the part. ? Steve

Does anybody else remember that weird sweet smell that you used to get when you opened a new molded in color Monogram kit back in the late 70s / early 80s? Kits like these. I used to love that smell! Now, the more mildew I smell, the happier I am! ? Steve

There were no decals at all provided with these kits to my knowledge. The "E" in the wheel center was a raised letter, so it was a simple operation to paint the center black and then clean the paint from the E with a little thinner. Steve

I believe that they were released later than the original 3 in 1 kits, and were basically an unassembled promo with stock parts only. Steve

Nothing to do with the screen size. It’s only on the main page of each category. No other pages, or anywhere else. It’s definitely a site issue. Probably another add related problem. Steve

It is an AMT “Junior Craftsman” kit. Basically the snap kit of the day. Steve

These are the first that I remember. Steve

Just another older build with new pics. Steve

These are a couple that I did using nothing more than black primer shot from a distance and rubbed out. Steve

I'm on a desk top, and mine is doing the same thing, but only on the main page. No add blocker. I tried the "theme" thing. When I change it, I just have gray bars on both sides. Whatever. Steve

Alclad black base is not required to use Alclad chrome, or other metal finishes. Any shiny black base will work just fine. I usually use any black that I happen to have on hand, (dark blue, even better) and then, depending on how glossy it is, I'll shoot a coat of Testors gloss enamel over it. Steve

Honestly, I never really understood the masking tape vinyl top thing anyway. For anyone who has ever had a vinyl top on a car, you know that the grain on the vinyl is pretty fine. It's designed to replicate the grain of real leather. Reduce that grain to 1/25th scale, and masking tape texture would probably equate to a cow about 100 feet long and 50 feet high! Masking tape texture is no where near close to being in scale for a 1/25th scale vinyl top. Here are a couple of photos, (relatively close up ones at that) of 1:1 vinyl tops. Even this close up, it's hard to see any sort of texture at all. Reduce that 25 times, and you don't get this. Looks closer to the 1:1 texture than 1/25th scale IMHO. Steve

If you have an airbrush and don't want to order or buy new paint, you can just mix your own using enamels or acrylics. If you're not a perfectionist, basically any orange will do the trick. I mix my own engine colors often using Testors flat enamels, thinned with lacquer thinner and then clear coated to achieve the desired shine. I look at Chrysler and Chevy orange as being basically interchangeable, as I do Mopar, and early 60s Buick and Pontiac turquoise/blue. I get it, they're all a little different, but even looking at photos of 1:1 engines on line is going to get you several variations for each color. Honestly, I could never quite understand the obsession that some modelers have with exact, correct engine colors, and yet they consider some Tamiya paint color "close enough" for a factory stock body color. Steve

Keep in mind that the engine colors had changed by ‘71. The bronze engine color was gone by that time. Steve

Not to be “that guy” but I went through all of the research when I did my ‘68 W-30, and found that the 400 engine in the ‘68-‘69 W-30 was painted a bronze color. Gold was the color used on the 350. Not that it’s that big of a deal, but if you’re looking for factory correct, it’s something to consider. As I said, I don’t want to be that guy, but I always appreciated this sort of information during the course of a project, if not to change it this time, at least I would have the information for any future projects. Steve

Yes. There are always mold lines, sink marks, and other imperfections that need attention, plus the fact that I usually will re-scribe most of the trim and panel lines, so the body will usually get plenty of sanding action before beginning primer coats. Steve

Sorry to get back to you so late, but I was out of town over the weekend and not paying attention to the board. The tires pictured above are some of the Modelhaus Johan promo reproductions. Steve

Of all of the after market parts providers out there, Kris is one of them that you don’t have to worry about. Steve

WAY better than the AMT kit was ever designed to look!! Steve

Use different tires. The original Johan tires aren't that great anyway, and there are a lot of much better looking alternatives. Steve