StevenGuthmiller

Anybody know if there’s been any NNL North coverage in the magazine within the past couple of years? I’m guessing no. Steve

I’ve had models show up in a few different mags, and never knew it If it hadn’t been for a fellow modeler informing me, I would have never known. Steve

My opinion? If you want to build a stock, or close to stock model, go with the Revell kit. Anything else......the AMT kit. Steve

In case anyone is interested, I just received my package from eBay (China) A couple of packages of the 36 AWG that Theo was asking about, and that Tommy Logan had posted a link for. I'm happy with it. Should work great for small details. The photo shows the 36 AWG wire next to a piece of 30 AWG "wrapping wire", which is close to the size that most would use for plug wires. Steve

Thank you! The panel lines have had nothing to darken them. I just scribed them very deeply before paint. Nothing is really needed after that. Steve

The polishing process has commenced. About half done. Steve

This is a little trick that I've been employing on several of my most recent builds. While it's not a functioning hood hinge, it's a technique for allowing display of your model with the hood in the opened or closed position with relatively realistic looking hinges. With this method, you can eliminate the need for a hood prop, and also eliminate the unrealistic slots in the firewalls or fender wells without having to go through the work of trying to create actual functioning hinges. This is accomplished by adding tiny miniature magnets to existing kit hinges, firewall and hood, making the hinges completely removable, and yet simple to quickly pop into place when you desire to display the model with the hood in the open position. Not an ideal situation, as you are then required to keep the hinges separately when the model is displayed with the hood closed, but it's a perfect solution for anyone who wants alternatives for situations like the contest tables, or really anytime when you want a quick change option You can not only display the model with the hood open or closed, but the hood is then entirely removable for unimpeded viewing of the engine compartment. Steve

lacquer paint. I just spray a little Duplicolor lacquer of the desired color into a cup, and then apply it with a brush. The trick is to remove the paint with some thinner from the high spots later, leaving the paint in the recesses. Steve

All that you can do is try. Nothing to lose by giving it a shot. In the mean time, if I were in your situation, loving the hobby as I do, I would join as many online groups and forums that I could find, just to keep myself immersed in it. When you’re feeling better, join a club, or take some of your existing models to a show or contest on occasion. I can’t think of a better way to remain engaged in the hobby than to stay in touch and get out there and meet people who love it as much as you do. Steve

I was using the BMF scriber for some time prior to the #11 blade, but my main gripes with it were that it's far too wide for scribing deeply, (due to it's tapered shape), and it's way too slow for me. I scribed "everything" on the '64 Bonny with a x-acto blade, including every piece of trim, (including the wheel well trim and front quarter badges) and yes, the fuel door too. I was very impressed with the speed of the x-acto blade for scribing and cutting when I used it, (backwards of course) to cut out the hood on an extremely thick Johan 1961 Dodge body in about 15 minutes! So quick and easy, that for the first time, I'm seriously thinking about opening the trunk lid and at least the driver's side door on that project. One of those things that I just never did because it was just too much of a PITA! Steve

Thanks guys! I got the foil on the badges, and did a little paint detailing on them. Now I can commence with the final couple of clear coats, then on to polishing. Steve

I'm a late comer to this technique, but I agree with Snake on this. The back side of an old #11 blade, (even one with a broken tip) works great for scribing panel lines. I have the luxury of building mostly vintage kits which have much thicker plastic than most modern kits so it's easy, (and fast) with a #11 blade to scribe very deep. Deep enough so that no wash is required. For new panel lines, I start with the first few swipes with a sharp #11, and then slowly start with the backwards one. A few strokes with the backwards blade, and you're well on your way. I used this method recently on my '64 Bonneville, and to my eye, they look perfect. And, as Marcos said, looking at the body from an angle lessens the impact of the lines, just as on a 1:1. Steve

I don’t know if the point is ever to make them look “legitimate”, or to fool anyone anyway. Anybody that knows anything about the history of model car kits pretty much knows what was produced as a real kit and what wasn’t. I think that most of the guys that are producing these phantom kit boxes are just doing it for the fun of it. By the way, the fact that Johan never did any Chevies was just one of the most glaring reasons why it was obvious that the kit was fake. Steve

After a small paint set back, I managed to get at least a few coats of clear on today. I'm thinking that I'll let it dry, and then foil and detail the hood, trunk and front quarter badges before I shoot the last couple of coats. Steve

Believe me, it's fake. People do these phantom model boxes all of the time. Steve

Unfortunately we probably haven’t even reached half time yet! ? Steve

The color is #6955E. "Seafoam Turquoise Metallic". The body color should be pretty close once the clear coats are applied. Steve

The color is just called "6411 Turquoise Metallic", and it's from MCW. A 1964 GM color. Steve

Final color coat on the body, and the scripts cleaned. ready for clear. Picked up a couple of bottles of MCW enamel to play with for the interior colors from my LHS. Steve

Is there such thing? Steve

I seem to remember something about the proprietor being out for a short time the last time I visited. On vacation or something? Could be wrong, but it rings a bell. Steve

First coat of the final body color. First photos in each set are the final MCW color. Second photos are the Scale Finishes color that I used for the base coat. Apparently supposed to be the same color. The MCW turquoise should really pop nicely with some clear. MCW. Scale Finishes. MCW. Scale Finishes. MCW. Scale Finishes. I like the MCW color much better! Steve

Looks great so far! But just so you know, the fender wells would be black for a stock build....if you’re doing it stock. Steve

Mostly belts/pulleys/air conditioning parts. The Monte Carlo has the compressor on the driver's side, while the El Camino has it on the passenger's side, which is correct for the Grand Prix. Steve

No. I spray them as I would any other paint. Steve