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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. I’m with Brian. If it’s not a rare kit, it shouldn’t be to hard to source a new body. I wouldn’t waste my time on it. Steve
  2. Sure. I figured it was part of the history of the kit. Now if I had done it in the past couple of years, it would have gotten a chassis swap. Steve
  3. For some reason, it was also included in the AMT '62 Ford kit. At least that was what was in mine. Steve
  4. I've finished up the foiling on the body, and now I've moved on the a few remaining body details that I wanted to address. Being as this is a convertible, and the inside of the window areas will be readily visible, I decided to see what I could do about adding a little more realism to the inside of the vent windows. There's nothing that says "model" or "toy" more than thick kit glass just glued to the inside of the body. So first I used a similar technique as in recent past builds, and added inside A-Pillar covers, as well as windshield header trim. The glass is made of .007 "Clear Lay Film", and the windshield will be a "friction fit" configuration. The trim covers were added before paint, so now I could begin adding the rubber seals, glass and interior trim pieces in a sandwich fashion. First the seals, then glass, then trim. Rubber seals were made from the same clear film as the glass, and the chrome trim is just foiled lengths of .010 x .030 styrene strip. This also helped add the affect of side window channels in the back of the vent window. Everything seems to have turned out pretty well, so I can now finish the other side. Just a couple of comparison shots of the unmodified side. (with the added A-pillar cover of course) Steve
  5. The graininess is due to the adhesive, but I'm hoping that they'll be able to dial that in a little more too. The sheet that I have from prior to the "pandemic" is as smooth as silk, and still adheres well, so it can be done, and has been in the past. Steve
  6. It is BMF, but most of the foil around the windows is from an older sheet. The newer sheets that I have have a little more texture to them. Steve
  7. I think that I have to agree that the example that the OP posted appears to lean much more towards the orange side than most examples that you see. Normally the color seems to be much closer to a standard pastel pink. Although the orange seems to often come out a little more in the sun. Steve
  8. I know that I said 3, but being as this is my thread, I'm adding a 4th. Another song that I really love! Steve
  9. I agree that in this circumstance, Scale Finishes would be a good option. In the case of solid colors, they would be more economical. It’s my opinion, on the other hand, that MCW is better for metallic colors. The metallic particles are much more in scale with MCW paints than with Scale Finishes. There is a trade off between these two brands. MCW, better realism with metallics, Scale Finishes, more economical and more standardly available color options. I’ve used both brands liberally, and personally have found no difference in quality or workability. By the way, just so that everyone is aware, the actual product cost of a 1 oz jar of the paint in question from MCW is $7.50. 2 oz. from Scale Finishes is $9.99 for lacquer, $10.49 for enamel. As with anything else, shipping costs can be mitigated by ordering more than a single unit. I generally will order at least a half dozen or more colors per order. Steve
  10. I agree. Laser Bond, (which is the one that I have used) works great for casting small parts, (as long as they’re not too thick) and is a terrific alternative for mock-ups, but doesn’t bond particularly well. That’s why it works so nice for mock-ups. You can very easily disassemble parts after they’ve been glued together. Interested to know if the JB stuff is any better. I use JB “Clear Weld” 2 part epoxy all of the time, and love it! Steve
  11. My understanding is that all of the MCW enamels are offered only in 1/2 oz. jars, so you will have to thin for airbrush yourself. That’s fine, but the nice thing about the lacquers are that they come pre-thinned, and ready to spray. (2 oz jars) That said, you’ll have to make the decision of what works best for you. I like using lacquers for various reasons, but I understand that some are more comfortable with enamels. Just be aware that if you use the enamels, you’ll have some limitations as to what you can use over it for clear coats and such. Steve
  12. Some of the best paint that you'll ever find! Be aware that it's acrylic lacquer and requires a good automotive lacquer primer base. (MCW color chip) Steve
  13. Best drummer that ever lived!! RIP Neil Peart. Steve
  14. I agree. Much easier to shoot it with some Alclad. Steve
  15. Saw the Marshall Tucker Band at a very small motorcycle rally in southeast Minnesota more than 20 years ago. They were the headliner and final band of the night, and by the time they got up on stage, Doug Gray was so wasted that he sounded like he was singing with his mouth full of marbles. It was so bad that the audience began to walk away, at which point, he began cussing them out. Horrible experience! Steve
  16. I've had fair luck masking and painting a few pin stripes. Use Tamiya tape, (or similar) with a freshly cut edge to get a clean, straight edge, and then spray the color with an air brush. Extremely light coats shot from a little ways away straight onto the subject will help to prevent bleed. The advantages of using paint is that you can get an exact color match and tapered ends if you desire. Steve
  17. Should be able to find it in larger auto parts stores. If not, I imagine you should be able to buy it online directly from Duplicolor? And if not, eBay has everything!! Steve
  18. Not everyone's cup of tea, but I've always liked "The Knack". Steve
  19. This is how I remove lacquer paint, but then again, I use Duplicolor primer, which is easily dissolved by Super Clean. My understanding is that Tamiya primer is much more difficult to remove. Steve
  20. Honestly, you could ask my wife. When Guns and Roses comes on the radio, the channel gets changed, or the radio is turned off!! One of the very few rock bands that I refuse to listen to. Part of it has to do with Axle's voice, which is like nails on a chalk board to me, and the other part is his attitude, and his historic disrespect for his own fans. The guy's just a complete #*$@! Steve
  21. I absolutely love Supertramp! Definitely in my top 20 favorite bands! I still find it hard to believe that they're still not in the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, but people like Run-DMC are! One of my favorites from Supertramp. Steve
  22. Personally, I’d rather have molten lead poured into my ears than listen to Axle Rose sing. ? Steve
  23. All great songs!!! As long as we're talking about the original Dylan version of Knockin' On Heaven's Door, and not the Guns and Roses cover. ?? Steve
  24. Yup, works perfect! (Another favorite) ? Steve
  25. Just go to YouTube, find the video you wish to share, then left click on the address box. The entire address should turn blue. Then right click on the address and select “copy”. In a separate window with the MCM site in it, right click in the post field and select “paste”. Steve
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