StevenGuthmiller

I've been going back and assessing the photos that I have of a lot of my old builds and have not been generally impressed. A lot of my old shots look so washed out, so I've began retaking some pics. It's surprising to me how much better a photographic illiterate such as myself can do with a smart phone camera over a digital camera! The colors are correct 1959 Dodge "Rose Quartz" and "Coral". Steve

Then you just have to weigh the risks. Either you buy from BMF directly and be certain, or buy somewhere else and take a chance. It’s an individual choice. Steve

You're probably going to get it cheaper ordering directly from BMF anyway. $7.50 per sheet. Steve

Yes, as Tom said, it has nothing to do with the paint’s temperature. ”Hot paint” is a term used to describe a paint that has harsh chemicals that are not compatible with styrene plastic. You can use these types of paint on plastic, but proper preparation is an absolute must to guard against damage. Steve

I only meant that it will look pretty dull with visible lines, much like brushed aluminum. If it looks too shiny right out of the package, you’ll probably be disappointed in it’s performance. The thicker “ultra-bright” foil, and the thicker stuff that everyone has been complaining about for the past year usually look a little glossier right out of the package. Call it a failed attempt to describe what looks like a good sheet of foil when opened. It’s just a look that it seems to have right out of the sleeve that’s been a pretty good indication to me that it’s going to be a good sheet before I even cut into it that is a little hard to describe. Steve

Yup, the paint was too hot for the plastic, and whatever primer was used was insufficient to protect it. I agree with Rodney about ditching the Rustoleum paint. There are far too many “good” paints on the market to risk the cheap stuff. A good primer is a must with any lacquer, and more is better than too little when it comes to protecting the plastic. Find a good lacquer primer, use several coats of it, and you should be able to spray almost anything over it without issue. Steve

I agree. My opinion is that lacquer thinner works the best for thinning enamel. Steve

Just received my BMF order today, so here's the assessment that I promised. I consider it about a 90% win. First of all, shipping was crazy fast, which is a great start. Ordered last Thursday, and received it today. Not bad at all in my book. My first inspection was just the general look of the sheet right out of the package, and it looked fairly good. Generally, a good sheet will look like smooth, flat, brushed aluminum. The look was pretty good, although it did display what could be a little bit of adhesive texture. Next, was to cut a piece and remove it from the backing. It performed exactly like the old foil, cutting easily and pulling up from the backing without the curl that you get from foil that is too thick. A very good sign. Then a test application. Again, it went on, burnished down, and polished up just like the old stuff. Adhesion was exceptional, and conformity to contours were very good. Trimming went just as well as the old foil. Now, the only complaint......and this is really nothing new. There appeared to be a little too much adhesive texture for my taste, as stated earlier in the post. But, as I said, this is something that was an issue on occasion with the old stuff too, and is not a deal breaker by any stretch in my opinion. So, for any of you that were on the fence about the performance of the latest incarnation of BMF, you should be fairly confident that you will get an acceptable product. Both sheets that I purchased were pretty much identical in performance features. Steve

I'll keep you posted. As soon as I receive my order, I'll try it out and give everyone a definitive answer. Believe me, I've used enough of this stuff to know exactly how it "should" perform. Steve

The tail lights are clear red resin replacements from Modelhaus. Steve

Okay. You talked me into it. I just went ahead and ordered a couple of sheets right away. Steve

Yes. The tires are the old Satco style whitewalls.

Good to hear! Maybe now we can put all of this foolishness behind us and move on. ? I’m about ready to re-order myself, but maybe I’ll wait for a few weeks until all of the craziness subsides. Steve

Another old build that I posted long ago that was in need of some new photos. A Johan 1960 Chrysler New Yorker in "Iris" and "Lilac", built in a curbside fashion. Steve

I agree. I’ve spoken my piece. Steve

This was my objection as well. We all proclaim to want to help fellow builders who may be newer to the hobby, or not as experienced as others, and while it may be helpful to make recommendations in that respect, I don't think it's particularly helpful to impugn an entire segment of the hobby because they don't meet our particular standards. Offer descriptions of what the modeler can expect for a particular kit, and avenues to deal with the issues that might arise. That seems to me to be far more constructive than turning people off to an entire company's product line because you may have found personal issue with some of it. Steve

As I said, there's no such thing as a "trash" kit in my opinion. They are what you make of them. I understand the desire to want something that puts itself together straight from the box, But I believe that when you limit yourself thusly, your restricting yourself from a whole world of really interesting subjects. I personally don't care in the least what the kit looks like in the box. It's what "You" can make it look like sitting on the shelf that matters. Steve

It’s all about interests and expectations. just from my perspective, I wouldn’t give 2 cents for a Tamiya kit. That says nothing about quality, but everything about subject matter. The subject has to interest me, or I have no interest in building it. So, I’ll spend some money on a kit if it will hold my interest, even if it is subpar. I can make it what ever I want to make it. That decision is mine to make. Just my thoughts. Steve

My Johan ‘62 300-H is still one of my absolute favorites, and one of my most treasured models, even though it just kind of fell into my lap. ? Steve

I’m afraid your right. unfortunately, I think we’re going to have to settle for black, white, red, maybe a shade of dark blue, and four different shades of metallic gray for the foreseeable future. Steve

Maybe you’re right, but “speaking up” only works when you do it with your wallet........along with a couple million other people. Steve

It’s not going to change my habits at all. As you said, it’s still a heck of a lot cheaper than a new fishing boat, or green fees every weekend. Most of my neighbors have spent more on snowmobiles and ATVs in the past few years than I’ll spend in a lifetime of modeling. Steve

Just to eliminate any confusion, 1966 Cadillac, Code #26 "Nocturne Blue", GM code WA3503, Ditzler PPG code 13149, Dupont code 4718L, 181-97687........all the same color. By the way, here is a '66 Deville in Nocturne Blue with a white interior. Steve

Scale Finishes is my "go to" whenever I'm looking for an unusual color. They have just about everything. MCW has superior paint in my opinion, but there are a lot of holes in their inventory. I had to use Scale Finishes for the "Sunfire Red" for my '64 Grand Prix, and "Cinnamon Bronze" for my '68 442, because MCW didn't carry either without a special order. Don't get me wrong, Scale Finishes paint is good stuff. I just like the scale of the metallics in MCW better. That said, as Joe stated, Scale Finishes will almost always have what you're looking for. Steve

Funny, but the same phenomenon is evident on the Lindberg '64 Dodge kits. Steve