StevenGuthmiller

Nice!! Love the "Knock your eyeballs out" red!! Steve

Steve

This is one that I’ve never had, although I would have liked to. I suppose I never really pursued one because it was so close in form and appearance to the Johan ‘62 Chrysler 300-H convertible. I have never been particularly concerned with particular models of an automobile, but more so just any example of a year and make. In the same vein as the Johan ‘61 Chrysler, I would have rather seen a ‘61 Chrysler 300-G, but the New Yorker was just as good in my mind. That said, although not a common sight, I’ve seen a few of these Revell ‘62 Newports built, most of them not particularly memorable, but this one is exceptionally well done! Nice job Tim! ? Steve

Very nice! I really wish that Johan/MPC/AMT would have continued some full sized Dodges, Buicks, Oldsmobiles, Mercurys, after 1965/66. Steve

It’s not just Testors fellas. We’re just going to have to suck it up and get used to it. Either that or go back to assembling them without paint like we did when we were kids. Just checked the Scale Finishes website, and their prices on a 2oz. jar of paint has increased from $9.99, to $12.99. No changes at MCW at the moment, but I expect it’s on the way. But, with the amount of time and expense that I generally put into a project, I doubt that a few dollars increase here and there is going to stop me. I’m going to continue building, and I’m not going to change the way that I do it. Steve

I'm coming around to this train of thought more and more as I progress in my modeling career. I have been guilty of tinting my panel lines too darkly in the past, often using a darker shade of body color, which once applied to the recess of the panel line, can still appear too dark. Going forward, my new plan of attack is going to be just to deeply scribe the panel lines, almost to the point of going all of the way through the body. This may not work as well with some of the "thin skinned" modern kits, but it appears to work exceptionally well on older kits with thicker plastic. Using this technique mimics a more realistic panel line by recreating something more similar to a real car's panel line, which is manifested by nothing more than depth. I recently had the importunity to test this technique, (which by the way, has been used for a long time by many modelers) on my most recent '68 Coronet build, and I was very pleased with the result. From now on, I'll be using this approach whenever possible. I've already begun "mining" the panel lines on my current '64 Pontiac Bonneville project. I am hopeful that it will be as satisfactory to me as the Coronet was. Steve

A photo of the real deal. Steve

Yup, I absolutely knew of the existence of "Dubonnet". I wasn't able to find the color when I built my '61 New Yorker, so I tried mixing some MCW lacquers to see if I could get somewhere close. The result was not as bright, but I believe that I got somewhere in the neighborhood. Steve

It's a pretty simple thing. If you don't like the price, don't buy it. It's a completely useless and futile exercise to go through the contortions of trying to exact blame on someone. It won't change a thing. Steve

Formulas are often changed to conform with environmental standards, which as a general rule, translates to an excrement product. Steve

I still have some Testors, and will use it until it’s gone, but aside from that, there’s no reason to continue using a product that even the company that produces it has no respect for. I don’t know why they don’t just ditch the whole line now and get it over with, rather than dragging it out and giving it’s faithful false hope. Steve

It's easy for me. I use Duplicolor , MCW and Scale Finishes. Steve

Well, that clinches it. Now I have an excuse to never buy anything from Rustoleum again. Like I needed an excuse not to buy the garbage anyway. ? Steve

Absolutely. I routinely use flat enamels to paint some assemblies, such as engines, and then use clear gloss to add the desired level of shine. Steve

Beautiful!! Couldn't have gotten a better finish on that! Steve

I thank you all fellas. Just thought that it might be nice to post a few better shots. Steve

Thanks Scott, but I prefer to keep it fresh with builds that I haven't shown at a particular show before. This year, I'll be bringing my latest '68 Coronet R/T build, along with maybe one or two old curbside builds, just so I can say I brought more than one. I'm thinking maybe my '58 Bonneville convertible, and possibly my '60 Buick Invicta. I'm still unsure. Steve

Thanks Bill. The cowl vents were just done by cutting out the holes and adding some wire mesh to the back side. Not the most realistic solution, but the original cowl definitely needed something. The Bonneville scripts were done in the same manner that I do all of my scripts. The "foil under paint" technique, which in short is the process of foiling the script before the final color coats, and then cleaning the paint from the surface of the script with thinner. Steve

I’ll be there, but the ‘67 Bonneville has been there before, so I doubt it will be making the trip. Steve

The console was modified by using the original kit console, and adding the 4 speed shift gate from the Revell '66 GTO kit. It turned out better than I thought it was going to. Steve

I posted photos of this build on this forum long ago, but was never happy with the pics. Got a chance to try again today, so I thought that some of you might like to see them. Steve

Whatever floats your boat as they say. I guess it's worth something to me to not have to beg, borrow or steal when searching for a paint color that I want to use. A pancake compressor, (which is a multi-use tool) a $100.00 airbrush, and between $7.00 and $10.00 for the exact color I want from MCW or Scale Finishes is well worth the price of admission in my opinion. But, to each his own. Steve

I don't think I've ever heard anyone call Tamiya the "cheapo route" before. Not exactly cheap in most cases. Steve

Yeah, it can vary quite a bit. my experience has been that the sheets that give me the smoothest finish are the sheets that have the least adhesion, and vice versa. Steve

Probably too much adhesive. I've had this same sort of issue with old sheets of BMF in the past. Steve