StevenGuthmiller

If I didn't know better Snake, I would say that was a "shameless plug". But I appreciate the kind comments. A more likely accompaniment to this Olds might come in a few months in the shape of a '68 Dodge Coronet R/T Hemi. Steve

Again Bob, thank you for your help with those decals! You were a large part of the inspiration for continuing with the "exploded" intake assembly. It really wouldn't have been worth doing without the beautiful decals! Thank you!! Steve

I am really hoping that the NNL North show will still take place in May as planned Wayne, and if not, it it's not rescheduled for later in the year, there's always next year I guess. Steve

Wow guys, I can't thank you all enough! I was thinking to myself, wouldn't it be great if people would show this much appreciation for everything we love to do in life? Sincerely, I just love doing what I do, and the attention that all of you gentleman and ladies lavish upon me is a huge added bonus. You will never know how much of a motivation you are to me. Thank you all so much folks! I am truly humbled by your comments. Steve

I'll be the first to admit that I don't always read every word of a post. Guess this was one of those times that I just skimmed over the high spots. That said, I have to believe that someone probably makes a PE set for this car? Steve

I would use a similar technique without the masking or the sand paper. I foil prior to the final color coat and then clean the script off with thinner prior to clear coating. Of course a lot of this is dependent upon your painting process, but I can foil some extremely faint scripts using this method. And believe it or not, a coat of primer over that bare plastic in the photo will make that script appear much more pronounced. Steve

Hi guys. I would hope that I'll be able to get some better shots outside tomorrow if the sun shines, but in the mean time, here is what I have. All comments are welcome. Steve

Of course. The paint used makes the difference. I use automotive lacquers for this job as a general rule for this very reason. Just a couple of other shots of work that I've done with this technique that have been clear coated over. Steve

If you have all of that, you'll have great luck using the foil under paint technique! Steve

As I stated above, you can certainly paint details before clear as long as you are using a compatible paint. The black in the 442 emblems, and the red in the Olds badge on the trunk lid in the above example, were painted before clear coats. It is often easier to do this type of detailing before any more detail is obscured by clear coats. Steve

You have to be certain that whatever paint that you are using for detailing is compatible with your clear coat. The paint used for the badging on my most recent project was Duplicolor automotive lacquers sprayed into a cup and applied with a brush. There are a lot of paints that I could have used, but I knew that the Duplicolor paints would not bleed under the clear that I was using. That being said, I only clear coat over foil applied over small badging and scripts. The rest of the foil goes on after all of the paint work and polishing s finished. Steve

All very good advice so far. I use a little bit of WD-40 on a Q-tip to remove the adhesive residue. But regardless of what you use, save that operation until you have finished foiling. Any oils left on the body will prevent the foil from sticking. I also agree with Tom. Q-tips can leave a lot of "fuzzers" stuck on the edges of the foil. Better off using pointed conical swabs, tooth picks, etc, for application, and then soft cotton cloths for burnishing. Steve

You did a superb job on this Buick Tommy!! Steve

Does value have something to do with it? I missed that part of the discussion. You stated that American muscle cars were "rubbish". My only contention is that British cars from the same era were worse. That's it. Steve

First of all, I own a 2005 Honda S-2000, so I'm no stranger to twisty roads, and contrary to belief there are plenty of them right out my back door. Second, I would much rather spend my time driving my '69 Pontiac Grand Prix than fixing a Triumph. Steve

Yeah, that's a pretty bold statement from someone from the home of the British sports car. Steve

Thank you so much everyone! As always, I enjoyed working on this project a great deal. Thank you so much Claes! Your opinion on this build is more important to me than anything else! As I said from the beginning, my biggest hope was that I could do this model justice in your eyes, and prove to you that it was worth your while to offer this kit to me in the first place. It will be one of the absolute highest prized builds in my collection, and I hope that you will approve of the end result. Again, I thank you for making this model available to me so that I might try my hand at making it the center piece that it deserves to be. Steve

The primer used will make a difference. Steve

Let it soak. It won't hurt the model any. Leave it alone for a week and see what happens. Steve

Model Roundup has several "after market" style spun aluminum air cleaners by Detail Master and Parts by Parks. Steve

If that question was directed at me Don, I don't decant anything. The primers, Dupicolor paint and clear were all shot directly from the can. The only thing air brushed were the Cinnamon Bronze color coats. Even the vinyl top and fender stripes were shot from a rattle can. Steve

I am not certain about that fact Jim. It was just my understanding that the spray bottles were diluted. I could very well be wrong about that. In any case, it's better to get the gallon jug. You can fill up a large enough container so that the entire model is submerged and there is ample room for all of the parts that need to be stripped. Steve

For my next trick, an AMT 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix. I plan on doing another full detail build with this one, utilizing the chassis from the AMT '62 Catalina kit. The engine will be a tri-carb 389 or 421 from either the '62 Catalina kit, the Revell '66 GTO, or the Moebius '61 Ventura. The color will be correct Pontiac "Sunfire Red" with a matching red and white interior. We'll see how it goes! Steve

It's in the "Perfect Match" line. Steve

Thanks so much Anton and Steve! It's been a great journey completing this build. It's finally finished after 5 1/2 months of effort! For all that might be interested, keep an eye on the "Under Glass" section. I will post photos there soon. I'd like to take one final opportunity to thank everyone who offered a helping hand or materials on this build. It couldn't have bee completed as is without your help! A special thank you to Claes Ericsson who provided this rare and wonderful kit to me in the first place, and of course, to Bob Spedding for providing the wonderful decals necessary to complete this model as close as possible as it would have appeared in life! Thanks gents!! You're true friends! See you all in the under glass section! Steve