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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. That's the story of my life. Seems to happen to me every time! Takes 5 seconds to do the same thing on Fotki. Steve
  2. I would do it similarly to Snake. The only difference is that I use "Clear Parts Cement". Basically the same thing as Elmer's, it just tacks up & sets a little faster. Personally, I would stay away from CA glues for body parts if at all possible. Even if you don't get glue on an exposed surface, there is the possibility of fogging the paint if you get a little heavy handed with the glue. It's just not worth the risk. Too many things can go wrong, & once you get CA on the paint, there's no getting it off short of going through the whole polishing process again. I've ruined paint jobs just by handling a finished body while I had an unknown droplet of CA on a finger. Steve
  3. Looks to me like your "skills" are not in progress, they've pretty much arrived! The both look great as far as I can tell! Steve
  4. Sounds like you should have it dialed in. Most of the sellers on ebay are very good decent people who have no interest in ripping anyone off. At least that's been my experience in general I'm confident that you will get what you ordered. Steve
  5. That's how I do it, even with Photobucket. Steve
  6. By the way Jon, I have a '69 Charger 500 kit that I may possibly be convinced to let go. I'm not sure if it's 100% complete, but all of the important parts should be there. It's unbuilt & unpainted & molded in yellow. Steve
  7. Keep on him! If he refuses to reimburse you, get ebay themselves involved. ebay has a "money back guarantee" for items either not received, or misrepresented. You have 30 days to return the item so I would give the seller a week or so to make good. If he hasn't by then, contact ebay & they will contact the seller & basically threaten him. If the seller still does not settle up, ebay will refund your money themselves. I had to take advantage of this feature once a few years ago when I did not receive an item after a couple of weeks. Eventually, ebay had to take over because the seller refused to respond. Finally the seller came back with the lame excuse that he had not seen the "sold" notification & had sold the item off of ebay. Such B.S! What really happened was I got the item for his base asking price & he had a buddy who probably offered him $5.00 more! I was so miffed!! Anyway, either way, you should get your money refunded. Steve
  8. It's a no-brainer to me. MCW, # 5635, '56 Ford "Peacock Blue". All of their paints are automotive lacquer & they carry virtually any color you can imagine. If they don't have it, they'll mix it for you. The Peacock Blue is in their list. Steve
  9. Were they advertised as 500 bodies, or did you just take a chance based on photos? If the seller advertised them incorrectly, I would demand a refund. Steve
  10. Very cool Tommy! Who is the caster? Steve
  11. Everybody has their own thing Tulio. I quit building for about 10 years because I got bored. I don't get excited about customs or race cars. Factory stock is what I love & before I was able to start finding some variety in kits from places like ebay, I totally lost interest in the available subject matter. Since that revelation, I've been more excited about building than I've ever been. I've got enough old annuals in my stash now to keep me busy for years to come. I think I'm back to stay! Carl's '65 reminds me that I have at least 7 Pontiac Bonneville's of different years and several Grand Prix's waiting in my stash, & I can't wait to get started on all of them! Steve
  12. There were some '58 or '59 Chevy promos done. Don't know if they ever did any Fords. Steve
  13. I remember them too. I just can't place which kits. I'm almost certain I have some kits that contain them. Some of the old '60s AMT kits had a "display" drum also. Steve
  14. Thanks Peter! To anyone who wants a little bit of a challenge, finish one of these old tub interiors! The modern kit interiors are just way too easy! Steve
  15. Thanks guys! Randy. If you go to the "Tips, Tricks & Tutorials" section and check out my post back in August with the heading "Transparent Steering Wheels" you'll see how I do them. It's not as complicated as you might think. Steve
  16. I'm not much of a wagon fan, but I do love all things Johan! That's some very nice work Hans!! Steve
  17. I've pretty much stopped using Photobucket. I got tired of all of the issues as well. Lately I've been using Fotki & it works so much better. No adds to deal with & it's quick. It got to the point that every time I wanted to do something on Photobucket, I was wasting another 20 minutes of my life! Steve
  18. I usually pin most of mine now as well. But if you're worried about messing up the paint & the finished model will be kept where it won't get a lot of "abuse", you can just glue it on with a dab of "clear parts cement". It's water soluble so if you get it where you don't want it, you can wipe it off without harming the paint. I've used this glue for small parts many times, & while it my not be ideal for mirrors or antennas, if you keep your builds in cases, as I do, you won't have a problem. Steve
  19. I concur with Art. I airbrush in a separate room in my basement without venting. It produces much less overspray, dust & fumes than a rattle can will, but it will still produce them. Steve
  20. Right! If you consider wiping the newspaper covered folding table, that is my work bench, with a paper towel when I spill dirty brush cleaner on it...........ya, it's clean! Steve
  21. Well, The interior is done! The rear shelf will be installed at final assembly. Modifications include, transparent steering wheel, gauge cluster "bubble", resin window cranks & scratch made door lock buttons & rear view mirror. I also flocked the carpet, opened up the ash tray where the previous builder had glued a shift lever, & added a "300" emblem between the rear seats. Steve
  22. Very nice! It looks great in that color! Steve
  23. The Testors gray will cover the blue just fine. I would use a coat of Testors gray for coverage & then white over that for a base. I've done several kits molded in blue with a similar technique & have never had any bleed through issues. Steve
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