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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. Nice looking Ford Mark! I haven't built one of these '49s in many years! I think I should build one! The paint is gorgeous! Almost too shiny for a '49. Steve
  2. Very nice Emmanuel! And I see that great minds think alike! I built mine a few years ago in the same colors. Just a little different 2-tone treatment. Steve
  3. Yeah, sorry. I misread the thread heading. I thought Jeff was asking about resin parts. There's no need to soak styrene parts. Just a good cleaning with some warm water & dish detergent is all that's needed before paint. Steve
  4. Modelhaus recommends Super Clean or Bleche White. I've used Super Clean. Works great. Steve
  5. I'm not sure that I would agree Mike! It really looks sharp in that color! It's very unusual & gives it a very "formal" look! I absolutely love it! Steve
  6. Holy cow!! That's an amazing save Mike! Especially considering the mess that the rear quarter trim was. I probably never even would have attempted to repair that! Fantastic work! How did you do your upholstery pattern? I did mine all in paint & some Sharpie markers. It was quite an undertaking! Steve
  7. Still hoping to finish this one up before the 1st of May, but the real car has been keeping me busy on the weekends lately, & I don't seem to get a lot done during the week. Getting close though, & I did manage to finish up the engine this afternoon. Hopefully I'll get a little more done this evening. The engine is straight from the box with a little detail added. Steve
  8. I was going to suggest painting the hood with white primer & then laying out the rays for the rising sun in red. White would be very easy to cover with light coats of red minimizing the "edges". Plus it would have given you a true rising sun flag look. Then a couple of clear coats to shine it up & help cover the edges between colors. Not sure if the "red, white & blue" color scheme would have been what you were looking for though. Anyway, I guess I'm a little late with paint suggestions at this point. Steve
  9. You just missed it Mike! I just traded this '60 Olds kit to another member a few weeks ago. I had another that I already built. Sorry, no before pics of mine, but it was a glue bomb when I got it. Steve
  10. Those are sweet Mike!! Especially the '59 Olds! Now you have me salivating to get going on mine. Not a glue bomb, but a very nice unpainted built kit. Steve
  11. Perfect! In all reality, I'll bet that best describes most of our "build orders"! Steve
  12. Nice Smelly! There's one that they don't just give away! Especially in that kind of condition! Steve
  13. Being as there is not a lot of fine detail, I would just prime it & then shoot it with several fairly heavy coats of Testors gloss black enamel for your base. Everyone always talks about how enamel paints hide too much detail, well, this would be a good instance to make that work "for you". The enamel takes a long time to dry & will level well so it should fill in that "roughness" that you're talking about & give you a smooth shiney black finish. Exactly what you need for Alclad. Steve
  14. Looks like whoever originally built it did a pretty decent job! Looks pretty good as is! Steve
  15. I've had pretty good luck with members that I've dealt with on this forum. The ones that I'm a little leery about dealing with are people who just show up out of the blue looking for something. Once they get what they need, they kind of disappear until the next time they want something. All of the people I've dealt with here are "regulars" & you kind of get that "I know where you live" attitude with each other & tend to acknowledge each others efforts a bit more. Steve
  16. Honey, I'm running to the liquor store to pick up a case of paint cups! Steve
  17. Never followed the box art in my life. Probably never will. Steve
  18. That's pretty wild! Did you make the "cow hide" yourself? I know "Scale Motorsports" makes some very cool upholstery decals in patterns like giraffe & elephant hide, as well as some stock patterns & "southwestern" blanket motifs. Wasn't sure if they had cow hide or not. Steve
  19. Transmission would be a metal color of some sort. Aluminum is usually a good choice. The starter, (in the photo on the side of the block) would be black. You can use your imagination for things like the oil filter. They came in all sorts of colors. Steve
  20. That's actually a very nice starting point. filling holes is not a huge problem, & having no paint is a giant advantage! Nice find. Steve
  21. I start with the body, then interior, then engine & chassis. I figure why go through all of the work of building an engine chassis & interior if something unforeseen happens to the body or paint that prompts you to put it back into the box. Engines & chassis, as well as interiors are much more forgiving for me anyway. Mistakes are more easily dealt with than a body that winds up with major paint issues, or the like, after you've already finished everything else. My bodies are sitting painted, polished, foiled & at least partially detailed before I even start anything else. Steve
  22. I've done quite a few, but didn't think to take a lot of "before" pictures. Here are a few though. As you can see, most of these are not what I would call "true" glue bombs. I'm extremely careful when I buy built kits to make sure I'm getting a good canvas to start with. I don't need any basket cases to spend months & months trying to salvage. I have enough "good" kits to build as it is! Steve
  23. I mix my own engine colors all the time, but I airbrush them. You can buy little paint cups in the craft paint department of Hobby Lobby for mixing & storing very small amounts of paint for brush painting. They hold 1/5th oz. & cost about $2.00 for I believe a dozen of them. When I'm done using them, I just toss them out. Steve
  24. Here's my '62 Bonneville. Not really a muscle car or all that rare, but it is in absolute mint condition. Steve
  25. I'd go this way all day long! But then again, I've always loved this combo in almost any car! Steve
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