StevenGuthmiller

I just have a cheap fluorescent shop light hanging over my bench & a cheap lighted magnifier on it. Cheap works just fine for me too! Steve

Are you trying to delete entire topics, or just attachments (photos) that you've posted. I don't know that there is a way to delete your topics, but you can delete attachments if you're posting pics from your hard drive. Just click on your name in the upper right corner, click on "my attachments" and a page will appear showing all of the photos you have posted. You can then delete which ever ones you would like by clicking on the "trash can" in the right hand column. You can delete individual posts by clicking on the "options" tile at the bottom of your post & then clicking on "delete" in the pop up box. Steve

It's very thin. I use an average of 4 to 5 coats on most of my builds, but that's mostly because it doesn't cover very well. Many times I'll use a coat of Testors primer to cover & then several coats of Duplicolor to give a nice smooth base. I'm not all that sold on Tamiya primer anyway. I have a couple cans, have tried it & was not all that impressed. Steve

Mine too! I only bought 4 tickets & had one matching number. Funny thing though, there were winners close at hand. 7 nurses at my wife's place of work will be sharing $50,000.00. A far cry from 1.5 billion, but better than a poke in the eye! Steve

I'm not much for customs or those type of "lowrider" style wheels, but nobody can say anything negative about that paint!! Fabulous!! Steve

Just for perspective, there are 2 '68s & 3 '69s for sale on ebay right now. A nice built '68 starting @ $79.99 An unbuilt but started '68 starting @ $199.99. 2 built '69s, one starting @ $129.99, the other with a cut open hood has 6 bids & is at $27.66 with 3 days left. I suspect it will go much higher. The last is a MIB '69 with a best offer price of $399.99. The first '68 would be a great price......if it stayed @ that price.......Which it won't! Steve

Not enough to recommend a price. The market will bear what the market will bear. All I can tell you is that I bought a disassembled built up '69 Coronet about a year ago for about $100.00! They do not come cheap! If you don't mind resin, it may be the more economical choice. Steve

Boy, if that doesn't look familiar! My cat will crawl into anything that it's not supposed to. Suitcases, laundry baskets, plastic bags, any kind of box & so on. My wife bought her a little "cat tent" that she could crawl into for $25.00.........won't go near it! Her latest thing is opening cupboard doors by pawing at the bottom & crawling into them. Dopey cats!! Steve

Open an account on a photo hosting site such as Photobucket or Fotki. Then you can post an unlimited number of pics by just copying & pasting from the site to the forum. Steve

Nope. Your post heading is wrong Steve. Not due to spelling errors. I've never built one! I'm not a hot rod guy, but you did a very nice job as far as I can see. Steve

Any of the tops from the old Johan '64-'68 Fury kits possibly? Good luck finding one! The top in the photo doesn't look particularly odd. I would think something could be modified to work. If I could modify a '59 Chevy top to fit this '59 Merc, this Plymouth shouldn't be too difficult. Steve

I don't think I'd hesitate building the '60 Bonneville convertible, but unfortunately, I have the hardtop. The proportions of the top are just way out of whack! Steve

Welcome Glenn! Some very nice stuff there! The flamed out '57 Chevy is just killer!! Steve

Hands down the nicest one I've seen yet! But I'll bet that there will be plenty more competition to come! Very nice work! The paint is fabulous! Steve

I've always thought the Club De Mer was a dopey looking car with that single tail fin! But you did a nice job on it Bill! I'm a little more partial to the '60 Bonneville myself, but they make a great duo! Steve

I'm really not familiar with HoK paints, but aren't they just automotive lacquers? If so, I would think there should be no reason why you couldn't use anything over them that you wish. Steve

I have yet to build a Trumpeter kit, but I have the Nova & the '60 Bonneville. After seeing how the Bonneville kit looked, I kind of lost my faith in Trumpeter. As far as I can see, the Nova looks like a pretty nice kit, but I haven't heard a lot about it & haven't really taken the time to check mine over really good. Steve

Well, that is good news. It's always so nice to have civilized conversations with people. I am having a nice life, thank you. Steve

I'll just conclude by saying, I've never read a claim on any "model kit", whether on the box, instruction sheet, or any other publication that they were ever intended to be a 100% accurate, museum quality, exact reproduction of whatever subject they represented. Where has it ever been written in 50+ years of model kit history that that was ever the intention. As far as I'm concerned, they're meant to be a reasonable facsimile of the subject. As far as parts fit goes, to single out one company is ludicrous. Every model manufacturer from the beginning to the present, has had issues along the way with engineering problems on occasion. we all probably have a lot of old & new kits to prove it. I know I do. I have yet to find any manufacturer who gets it right every time, whether that be models, or any other product. I'll work with what I get, & if I don't like it, I won't buy it. Steve

It's a model kit. Steve

Happens to the best of us. Just a suggestion for next time, get some "clear parts cement" for the glass & small parts like mirrors, antennas, etc. That way, if you make a mistake like that, you can just rub it off without damaging the finish of your glass or paint. I use Testors myself, but there are others available. Tell him not to get discouraged. I've been building for over 40 years & I still make plenty of mistakes. You were correct to tell him just to walk away for a while. Very sound advice! Those "big" problems look a lot smaller with a little time. Steve

Agreed. But to be safe, I would make sure the paint is fully cured before sanding or clearcoating. Steve

I agree with whomever replied to you. No one is holding a gun to your head. If Tamiya ever made a kit of a subject that interested me, I would probably buy them. Not gonna buy a kit of a Ferrari just because it's more accurate or better engineered, I don't want it. I'm not wishing to start an argument, but we get it, you don't like Moebius. Easy solution, don't buy them. Steve

$150,000.00!? Not in this lifetime! Steve

You can use Testors lacquers over enamel, no problem. I've done it many times. Testors clear lacquers are very mild. I've used them over almost everything. As far as how long to wait, I really won't say. I've used clear lacquer over flat enamels & the like within a couple of days, but not over gloss enamel. Gloss enamels take longer to dry than flat. If it were me, I'd skip the enamel paint & use a lacquer. I used to use enamels for bodies but always had to wait for several weeks to polish, etc. Steve