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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller
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A "nice build" posted back to back 5 times is at least a little more personal than clicking a "like" button. If we're going to become that detached, we just as well have an automated system that automatically clicks a "like" button for us every time a new post comes up. I don't respond to every post either, but I feel like if I'm going to, it deserves a little more than just an acknowledgment that it exists. Steve
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Kind of takes all of the fun out of having a forum where people converse & exchange ideas & niceties. But I guess that's the way of the world these days. I figure if it's too much trouble to type a couple of words, why even post at all. I guess I have no issue with a "like" button, but I will likely not use it myself. Steve
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Great job Andy! Beautiful from every angle!! steve
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Is it too much work to just type "like"? I don't post comments on every thread, just the ones that really interest me. I actually kind of enjoy posting comments occasionally, as well as receiving them. Gives me something to do while the paint dries. Steve
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A nice little crack or two in the windshield is easily achieved with an exacto knife. Could give it a once over with some fine sandpaper in a swirled motion to give it a weathered look. & then there's always masking off the area where the wipers travel & "grundging" up the rest of it. Just a few ideas. Steve
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Just go to your first page of the thread & click on "edit" at the bottom of your first post. Then click on "use full editor". Then you can type whatever you like in the "Topic Title" box, or anywhere else for that matter. Steve
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No, you're not alone Peter. I know a lot of guys really get into detailing chassis, but I have no interest either. I do enjoy the occasional detailing of the engine compartment because as long as I'm not doing 427 Chevies or 426 Hemis over & over again, the power plants of some of these old cars can be interesting & unique. There is little to get excited about on a chassis in my opinion & it can become very tedious working on something that holds no interest for you. These old chassis plates on the annuals are the perfect antidote for that tedium. A little paint, slip in the axles & you're done. Steve
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Personally, I think I'd go all the way with the "barn find" look & go with rusty steel wheels & grimy white walls. Looking terrific so far! Steve
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Clear over flat black
StevenGuthmiller replied to JJER's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Nice thing about using Testors clear lacquer is that it will give you varying degrees of a satin finish with each successive coat, getting a little glossier as you add coats. if you're looking for a satin type finish it works great. Steve -
swapping roofs on a few fords
StevenGuthmiller replied to tubbs's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Another thing to take into consideration is the interior tub Al. The Galaxie & the Starliner had different tubs. Actually, the tub that comes with the Galaxie is a 4 door tub. You may want to see if the interior from the '60 would work with the '61 body. Would probably be closer to accurate in the long run. Steve -
Gunze Sangyo 1:32nd, New photo added 2.10.2015
StevenGuthmiller replied to peekay's topic in Model Cars
I bought a bunch of these kits back when they first came out but never built any. They always seemed to be very nice kits, & now I see that they really are! Nice work Peter! Especially on the Caddy! Steve -
swapping roofs on a few fords
StevenGuthmiller replied to tubbs's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Haven't tried it, but just in case you didn't know, the '61 Galaxie kit is a curbside kit.(no engine). But I believe it's been done many times. Steve -
Clear over flat black
StevenGuthmiller replied to JJER's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Testors clear lacquer will achieve that goal, but it will take several coats. Testors clear enamel will do the job as well but will take a couple of months to cure afterwards. Steve -
Johan started that business way back some where around 1961. I have a '61 Plymouth molded in yellow & I know it came in at least white & pale green as well. Johan used a lot of far out colors. Steve
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Just saying ', most guys plan on painting their kits, & we all know that the molded in color kits offer a whole new set of problems when painting. Steve
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Spectacular paint job Jim!! Steve
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Nice score! But I do have to say, you may be the first person I've ever heard say you were "lucky" for getting the molded in color kits. Most of us hate them! Steve
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1966 olds master cylinder question
StevenGuthmiller replied to greymack's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Not sure what came with what package for the 442, but back in those days you could order any options you wanted on a car. I once owned a '58 Cadillac that came with standard power seats, "Autotronic Eye" & "Wonder Bar" radio, but a heater was an option. Steve -
Painting ... Yeah Painting
StevenGuthmiller replied to Hollywood's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Basically for me it comes down to what kind of paint I'm using. Flat enamels have a lot of the same characteristics as primers so I see no need to prime prior to using them. Paints like Testors Metalizer have never given me any issues without primer either, so I usually pass with them as well. Unlike Tim, I've never had good luck with painting bodies without primer, but then again I've used automotive type lacquers for the past decade & with them, primer is a must. On occasion, I've even used primer as a color coat & then just clear coated over it. Steve -
Painting ... Yeah Painting
StevenGuthmiller replied to Hollywood's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I prime most things, but not all. Small parts that I plan to paint flat colors like batteries, I don't bother with. Paints like Testors flat black enamel cover well with one coat so I don't find a need to prime before I use them. Steve -
I don't worry too much about that stuff either Peter. Maybe the owner had to replace his Mopar battery. Although, I do try to keep things as accurate as possible, I don't obsess. Maybe use one of the aftermarket batteries like an Interstate or a Diehard. They're all represented on the mini sheet. I'm planning on some more custom decals from Tommy in the near future, that Mopar battery would be a good one to add. Steve
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First Build - Painting Advice
StevenGuthmiller replied to vroomvroom's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The only thing you have to remember guys, is Tamiya paint is not readily available for a lot of us. I don't use it, but if I did, I'd only be able to get it by ordering on line. That needs to be taken into consideration as well. Steve -
First Build - Painting Advice
StevenGuthmiller replied to vroomvroom's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
For black you can use almost any type of paint with good results. Even good oldTestors gloss black enamel will give you a nice finish. As long as you don't mind waiting for a couple of months for it to cure. I use almost exclusively automotive lacquers just because they dry terrifically fast and they don't cover up any detail. Just a spray can of Duplicolor black & some clear will do nicely for you. Just don't forget to prime, prime, prime! Automotive lacquers are hard on styrene so you need a good barrier between paint & plastic. Steve -
Thanks Tommy! Uh, nope......still planet Earth! Steve
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I also have 3/4 of a set of Modelhaus stock '58 wheel covers. Some where along the line, I lost one years ago & had to order a new set. I believe the Modelhaus pieces are replicas of the promo wheels. I'm not in the position to download any pics right now, but if you go back & look @ the pics in the "what did you get today" thread of my '58, those are the Modelhaus ones. The scripts are a challenge but can be done with the foil under paint technique as long as you're not using too many heavy coats of paint. Steve