landman

I have an order in from yesterday.

Looking good, I'll have to revise my order. Please hold the casters .

You got the wheels spot-on.

Hey Matt. that might work. I can assemble them with jewelry chain. Pat

I was going to suggest that after seeing the email Installing closed would prevent putting tension but it would be manageable I guess.

Tulio, how do you do the scripts? Paint over foil?

I think I am going to start sending my models to Brazil for painting. I'm sure it will be worth the expense. That Ford is incredible!

What about those casters? Are they feasible in 1/24?

In my case they will be used to display engines in a diorama type setting.

Can you do this stuff in any scale you desire?

Now THAT sounds better. thanks.

A friend of mine has one with a 440 six-pack. It really boogies.

Is that KFS in England? I seem to remember that maybe I saw that in a thread and not a website and the fellow said he got them in England. As far as making some I'd make some in the closed position and attach them like that and I'd make some in the open position to hang on a headache rack. I think your sduspiscions of plastic not being strong enough for even a small tug are well founded.

If you mean by indirect a pair of arms with hooks at each end that close and snap together, then yes that it what I am looking for.

That is one of those I loked at. No load binders there.

I remember seeing one of those resincasters' site which had load binders and hooks. I just went through all of what I had saved in my favorites without finding any. Tell me I didn't dream this.

.A lot of the bling on the first diecast was broken and I had broken some myself trying to remove them. Tonight I spent some time carefully pusing the stems out on the other body and repairing broken pieces. Looks like I'll have enough of everything between the two of them.

Here's where I'm at with it. It is large enough that I can add goodies but still have a plain background for WIP photos if needed. I like to think of it as a "clean storage" room of an engine rebuilding shop. I'd like to eventually display all sorts of engines there. I put my projects there when I need the bench for something else.

I can see the center letter method working on the rear. As for the front do I: - Paint the raised letters? - Use the PE letter ON TOP Of the raised letters? - Shave the raised letters before using the PE letters?

Thanks Bob. Does PE polish to a silver color?

How wel do they work? How expensive are they? Is there a homebrew recipe for them?

I am working on a 1:25 model of a Ford mustang. The scripts front & back are individual letters. On the hood I am using, they are molded in. On the rear decklid, they aren't. the detail PE sheet for this car has the scripts. Ford goes on the hood and Mustang across the decklid. I have looked at many videos & tutorials about working with PE all of which were very informative. However, none of them show how to install individual lettering straight and with the proper spacing. Has anyone here ever done this? And how do you "chrome" something this small?

And here they are freshly finished in the garage and in their spot. I never realized that desk wasn't level.

The resin body has no lettering molded in and I will use the lettering from the PE set. The hood from the plastic fastback has lettering. Is it crisper than the PE would be? Also, if I use the photoetch lettering do I shave this one off first? I need to know this before I paint the car.

Reprimed the TA body & took it out to the garage along with some Testor's Model Master Ford engine and the airbrush. Ended up dropping the airbrush and breaking it. So I went and got a can of Duplicolor bright red and tried that. Much better success this time. I may go with this on the Mustang. Sanded the Mustang, reprimed and sanded it down again with 600. Ready to go to the paintshop.