landman

Does anyone cast the following? I've look at all my links and haven't found any. Stromberg 2 barrel barbs V6 intake manifolds 6 cylinder distributors

Getting some info & pictures together along with some measurements.

That second photo should be this one. When I click edit. I get a flash of the posting then an empty box. I tried.

The rear seat in a convertible is narrower. I narrowed the resin coupe seat but it looks odd. I think I should have narrowed it in the inserts to keep the middle part wider. But that would have been beyond my skills. The fastback's seat fits but is obviously incorrect. I may have to talk to Vamach1 to see how he did his. I had forgotten the window cranks and ashtray covers so I cobbled some. They look awful in the photo but from a distance they don't look too bad.In 1;1 parlance a car with a so-so paintjob is called a 20 footer. Looks good from 20 feet. Anything closer the defects become visible. This model may well become a 15 incher.

Cato, she has stopped doing any long ago, sticks to drywall, plastering, painting, stains & varnish. I do the woodwork now. I may approach you for the cases. That is one sharp looking GT40.

Well that solves a mystery. I've been looking for Future high and low to no avail. I was wondering if maybe it wasn't for sale in this country. Now I KNOW Pledge products are. So I'm on a new hunt.

This may not sound like a modelling topic but you'll see. In 1985, my wife built three bookcases for our den. About 10 years later we made two wider ,deeper ones for the other wall. In 1999, we moved and we lined them all up against one wall in the new house. In 2005 we moved here. Last year we decided to restore them and make them fit two opposite walls of the guest bedroom. That meant narrowing, sectioning to get them to the same depth and the required widths to fit that particular room. With all this cutting and everything we ended up with not enough long shelves and it left a big hole. Well, that is where the models are going. I've made a set of shallow shelves and I'll be able to stack maybe 5 of them in that opening. Then I'll look at making some glass doors to keep the dust out.

A few more things done.

Wow that guy is good.

Is that build on this forum?

Too bad, With this one, we could use the heads, intake and exhaust manifolds and valve covers on a scratchbuilt block.

Is there a kit of GM's gas V6's made? Like this one?

Is that kit cheap in price because it is cheap in quality?

Hey Joe, For info on "Correctness" there is no better resource than the auto clubs. Try this one for starters http://www.chryslerclub.org/ . Or this one: https://www.facebook.com/EBodyMoparClubOfAmerica

Checked Bill's thread. He did undercut his window channels. Added the trim around the grille opening. Tried out Bill's method of holding "glass". 4 cardboard windshields later, I'm getting close.

I am almost ready to prime the body and I have a sequencing question. The engine compartment is black and the car is red. Which do I do first? I assime the black, then mask it. Easier to touch up right? I might also put some things like Mr.Obsessive put on his to hold the windows. I wonder if his were undercut?

Maybe you will have to do a new one with a well known street corner in your customer's town.

Whew!!!!! That is hard work and I'm not so sure I like the results. But here goes anyway.

Nice stable.

I Got this....at Michaels. It was $36.00. I thought "Why not?". It'll be the base for one of my old trucks.

Any preferred tamping tool Tom? Q-tip?

They are "aluminum". Maybe paint them aluminum instead of BMF & rub off the black?

Tom, will the BMF stretch down into each groove without tearing?

Here we go again. Lets me quote but doesn't print what I wrote. Joe, that car is my car. As far as I can figure out, the guy who restored it kept most of the standard interior but dolled it up a bit with the dash & console aluminum. They are repop and glued on top of the black stuff. While we're at it, how do I paint just the top of the ribs at the bottom of the door?