landman

I had tried to paint whitewalls using the circle template method but since the tires are hollow like real tires and have to be "worked" over the rims. The paint cracked. So I have to figure a way of painting them already on the wheel. Dechromed and epoxied the windshield frame in place. Added a bit of putty here and there. I'll compare the apparent thickness of the A pillars with the 1:1. I may have to thin them out a bit.

Turns out I have to file the ridge on top of the cowl to have a nice , flat surface up to the base of the windshield. I also realized that the back of the Ford windshield frame is flat which is better for this application, so it will go in inside out. After much more filing and sanding we are almost where we want to be.

Here's the one I was talking about. It is Tùlio who is doing it. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91919

They do a Shelby in subscriptions like that. In Brazil, I think.

I can't say thank you in Portugese or in Russian so here goes, merci mom ami.

After looking at Tùlio's, I figured I wouldn't post mine. But... you need a couple of glue bombs to balance things. So here's the other end of the spectrum, freshly out of long term storage. The '59 is a Skyliner with the complete top mechanism which I didn't get quite right. Are the instructions for these still available?

Spent some time trying to figure out how to make the bottom of the windshield mate the diecast's cowl. This is the gap I have to fill. File stroke by file stroke we are getting there. I am going to try for the tightest fit possible to avoid using too much filler which may crack.

Tell me you didn't paint this on the kitchen table.

What do you use to attach your "holding sticks" to the parts before painting, CA?

Thank you Mirada.

Put some putty on the rear window joint and filed and sanded along the bottom of the roof to get it to mate with the top of the deck. Found another thing which won't work, when I made a bottom for the front windshield I followed a line on top of the cowl. I realize now that isn't correct since the windshield is flat. I'm open to suggestions as how to rectify that blunder. I will also attempt to make a better line for the front of the door opening.

I think it is OK there. You wouldn't want all the weight of the trailer on the rear axle alone.

Mr. Pristovnik, Two questions: Are the clamps the hold the ignition shielding scratch built? If so, how? With washes, how are they applied. Cover the whole part then wipe?

Fiddled with the window. Cut out the Ford window and inserted my home made Chevy one. I won't even hazard an opinion.

I don't think the honny will die. However, with the price of things and so on it'll get more and more exclusive which has already started by closing the mom & pop local stores. The large stores with big inventories will be relegated to large population centres and for us in the hinterland, well, it is eBay or the big suppliers with websites.

Another thing which is different is the spare tire covers. On the '35 diecast they have a full face cover. On mine they cover only the tire and the rim. So I opened up the covers with a step drill. Then I smoothed the hole with a cone stone. Carved all the lips from the inside and sandwiched a wheel in there. They look somewhat like the 1:1.

While our friend Fractalign is recuperating down under, I thought I'd take a run at making my own rear window. Using Fractalign's instructions in post #66, I printed the correct size photo on a label sheet and stuck it to a piece of styrene. I then cut out the actual window opening. As per his instructions, I cut out a slightly larger one. Instead of using them to make a mold, I glued them together. I will trim the inner one so the protruding material hopefully looks like a window reveal.

One like this?

Neal, was yours from R & R?

Clifford, I'm working on something similar. Hope it turns out half as nice as yours. Do you mind if I bug you for pointers from time to time?

Neat lloking slingshot. Brobably a wicked driver too. Please describe the "Salt method".

Is the loading deck part of the flatbed kit? Nice job.

There.

Thank you sir.

Decided to make a fuel line. Ran it inside the frame rail much as in the 1:1. Hooked it up to the fuel pump. These are the battery cables on the 1:1. I'm going to try to add some to the model. While I was taking all these close up pictures I noticed the joint seam between the two halves of the engine and the molding seam along the exhaust system. I guess it is too late now but that would be something to remember next time.