Dirty Dave

Thanks! I painted all the wood by drybrushing and washes with acrylics, topping it off with some Tamiya clear yellow before I sealed it with clear lacquer. After that, I masked it off, painted the inner bed walls, and did the silver rails last, using a paint pen.

Hadn't seen your C10 project. I like how it's coming along.

Very cool.

I'm glad that you stayed with the more modern alloy wheels, though the steelies were giving it a cool dirt track modified vibe. Still watching in awe as this progresses.

Nice finish on that paint. Glassy.

This is essentially an AMT '60 Chevrolet Custom Fleetside with a few changes and upgrades. It was meant to be a quickie shelf build, so there isn't a lot of extra brake line plumbing or major body mods. Just a nice kustom pickup in flattened light purple. The '60 Mercury grille is an old AMT Parts Pack piece that was narrowed to fit the Chevy Surround. Emblems, tailgate latches and door handles were shaved. The front bumper was flipped, and the lower section painted to give the front end a bit lighter look. Lowering was achieved in three ways. Smaller rubber and mags are Pegasus Sovereigns. Rear airbags and the accompanying compressor/tank are from AMT's '39 Chevy Wagonrod. Most of the drop comes from a severe 5"-6" (scale) channel. Extra height was removed from the inner bed sides before reattaching the rear fenders to provide clearance for the slammed rear end and dual exhaust system, optional parts from an AMT '51 Chevrolet Convertible. The exhaust terminates in stainless turn-downs from a Metal Bug sci-fi detail set. Those stake sides came from a Revell '41 Chevrolet pickup. That same convertible donated the dual-carbs, intake, split exhaust manifolds and valve cover. D&J aluminum air cleaners, and Detail Master pulleys and distributor add more WOW when the hood is popped. After trimming down the firewall and interior side panels to raise the floor, the seat needed to be cut down to sit directly on the floorboards. Scale Motorsport zebra decals add some spice to the pearl white and purple interior. Like I said, nothing too fancy. It may get a hitch so it can trailer around an old dragster or some wild bubbletop rod.

It's almost done - just a few finishing touches to go: I flipped the front bumper, and painted the lower section. Kind of a phony roll pan. I haven't mounted the bed permanently yet. It still needs exhaust and air suspension plumbing underneath, and the front bed wall is still missing. No engne pics until it moves over to under-glass. I haven't run the radiator and heater hoses yet,

After a scale 5" channel, I needed to doublecheck the underhood clearance to make sure the D&J Products turned air cleaners weren't going to be in the way. And it fit!

I went right past pearl to matte mauve (Testors purple with a dullcoat after applying a couple of pinstripe decals) I also molded and shaved the hood, fender badges and doorhandles.

Yeah, when he asked for headers from "new" kits, I wasn't sure if he meant modern tooling or currently available, so I opted for modern tooling.

I guess that all depends what kind of headers that you're looking for. The AMT Phantom Vicky had a 4.6 mod motor with port spacing and placement very similar to a 392, so those would make excellent headers for the early Hemi in a fenderless car. Revell's ProStreet Willys coupe kit had a 392 with nice headers for tucking it into just about any full-bodied street car. Modern, non-turbocharged lakes cars tend to use more tuned, bundle-of-snakes designs. I feel the best bet for these is to take four pieces of styrene rod/tubing, use them to create a custom collector to fit your location/application, and then attach four equal lengths of fluxless solder, bending them to meet the cylinder head in a manner that you feel clears any framework/steering/suspension components, and still appears "right".

I'm glad to hear it. It's easy to lose sight of these things when a project gets rolling, and the inner designer starts to take over. It's one thing to build a race-inspired street rod, and yet another to make a stylishly-designed racer. I also believe that, while it's wonderful to sculpt elegant lines, the original car's body and design has to be respected if it is in fact a Model A roadster and not a clean-sheet concept.

Nice work! The counter-wound coil springs, finned brakes and Q-C really make for a nice rear end. I look forward to seeing what kind of grille treatment you have in store for us.

I recognized that Beer Wagon barrel straight-away. The bubble in the bottle casting is interesting. I've turned those out of clear rod before.

Scott, You're the bestest ever.

I am imagining the flower somehow suddenly glowing red when the brake pedal is tapped.

Thanks. Not pictured are the adjustments made to the inner fenderwells, cab floor and back panel, firewall, door panels, radiator and bench seat to accomodate the drop. The front wheels have about 2-1/2 scale inches before they would contact against the tops of the unaltered inner fenders. That's fine by me - bumpstops can keep that from occurring. I only put adjustable suspension in the rear because that's how I prefer my 1:1 customs - as drivers. Adustable suspension up front causes all kinds of alignment/handling/tire wear headaches that aren't worth the hassle to me, and so I'm building this pickup in a similar manner. The plan is for it to be the tow/push rig for a little Offy-powered vintage dragster. I'm thinking pearl pink/purple/blue fades and scallops for paint with some bright pearl white on the roof and inner bed panels. Speaking of which, i need to build a new front panel for the bed, but want to wait until after I get the wood and stainless all done on the bed floor before I install it. Maybe some wood stake sides on top of the bed sides? We'll see. I'm still trying to figure out the interior scheme.

I like it. Can't wait to see what it gets for paint.

I tacked a few things together to check the stance. Looks like I need to narrow the rear axle just slightly. Happy wth the height, though. You can see how far I raised the bed floor to accommodate the channel and rear suspension drop (air bags in the rear, static in the front).

I am intrigued.

This post relates to my interests. *thumbsup*

That's looking great, Bobby.

Ha!

When we were in high school, my little brother had a '72 Scout II with the larger six cylinder engine and two barrel carb mated to a three speed. Dick Cepek lift springs and shocks had it sitting about like your model. Your build is really bringing it all back.

Nicely bodged. HOw close are you figuring this? Allowing for paint thickness?