
Mark
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The rear section of the raised top was mentioned as being newly retooled. If it's the one with three window openings, that's probably the lone piece carried over from the My Mother the Car issue. The stock top had only a small rectangular rear window, which never actually had a clear glass until the mid-Seventies Laurel & Hardy issue. L&H never used a touring that new (or a '25 roadster either) but someone at AMT had good taste in early film comedy. All of those retooled parts would seem to bolster the notion that the fire truck version might eventually resurface.
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Or a major campaign donor.
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Front end looks a little funky, grille is too high relative to the hood.
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You might double check the toll activity too. Some local DMV office personnel have been found to be selling license plates that have been turned in. I wouldn't put it past them to be selling EZPass info on the side also. If you do turn plates in (they are property of the state), cut them in half before doing so. Maybe cut them in three, lengthwise, and mangle the middle piece.
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They seem to do whatever they feel like doing...probably falls under the turf of an "authority", meaning everyone is connected, nobody is elected, nobody answers to the unwashed masses. I handled EZPass accounts for a former employer that had a number of cars enrolled. With a bunch of accounts, I wanted to know which ones were being used and when. So I set up different replenishment amounts for each account, so when I looked at the credit card activity I'd know which account was being used. Different dollar amounts, I didn't get into dollars and cents. Soon all the replenishments were coming through at the same dollar amount again. I looked at the accounts; they reset the amounts on all of them. So much for letting the account user set the amount.
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No, that's a metal flake purple.
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There were maybe a dozen or so of those 421 sedans, plus a couple of station wagons. They retained the transaxle setup when originally built, though most were converted to a conventional transmission and rear axle later.
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Wow. Resin kits apparently went WAY up?
Mark replied to Brutalform's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The result of free listing and relisting, tolerated by eBay because they inflate the number of listings. When I viewed it, it was shown as being in two shopping carts. Wouldn't that mean that a few minutes later, it would be unavailable due to it having been sold? That said, items from that caster don't often turn up. There are two separate stories concerning him; repeating either of them at this point really doesn't accomplish anything. -
Original '63 annual had the 326 (actually 336) V8. Only the '62 annuals had the four. '27 T rod parts carried over from the double kit are limited to the Frontenac engine parts, and maybe the rear wheels. Suspension parts are totally different.
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"Best" 1/25 Pontiac GTO (64 or 65 or 66) kit
Mark replied to Bill Anderson's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Revell '66 is a good one. Their '64 is pretty good too, 1/24 scale if that factors into things. They don't make a '65. AMT makes two, both with molded-in exhaust detail and promo based design. The newer Craftsman '65 hardtop is way better than the older convertible kit with separate hardtop. The engine from the latter drops into the former. -
Bob Wingate's Model Cars
Mark replied to 250 Testa Rossa's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
There were several parts to those articles, covering different makes through 1962 or 1963. I remember reading somewhere that he sold all of the models in the late Sixties or early Seventies. -
I've gotten decent results with the 1K clear over Duplicolor lacquer, but only when applied once. Absolutely no luck recoating the 1K, especially with wet sanding the first coat. Can that be done, and what would the procedure be?
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'66 Impala hardtop is pretty much a fastback, nothing like a sedan. Even the '67 four-door hardtop (Supernatural Impala) roof is different from the sedans.
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Measuring the two, they're close but not exactly the same. Not surprising, considering they were designed and tooled many years apart by different companies. That said, before starting I'd try to find dimensional drawings of the two body styles (or, better, measure both cars in 1:1). Ford didn't build many of their car bodies yet; most body styles were bought from outside companies like Murray and Briggs. I don't know specifically about the '33-'34 bodies, but I do know that a '32 3W body is considerably wider at the back of the door opening (hangs further outside the frame rail on each side) than a 5W. And I do know the '36 3W and 5W roofs differ in length (wider panel between roof and deck lid). The 3W roof is the shorter of the two. I'd imagine at least one of those quirks carried over to, or from, '33-'34. Having measured the two '34 bodies, I'd do it one of two ways. (1): cut the 3W body behind the roof leaving a little bit of the deck area, just enough to fill the difference in length between it and the longer 5W roof being removed. The 5W dirt track body has the bottom few inches trimmed off. I'd keep its side panels and trim the 5W body down to where the missing portion of the 3W body is left. It might be tough making the two transition into one another this way. You will probably have to narrow the 3W roof a bit at the windshield opening. (2): The other way would be to shorten the 5W roof to match the 3W, then splice in the 3W side window openings. The size of the roof insert will probably need to be changed also. But before doing anything, I'd get measurements or dimensional drawings. I'd almost bet the two bodies came from different suppliers and differ in width. I bought another '34 coupe a few weeks ago, but, already having a couple of Monogram coupes, I'm looking at doing a two-door sedan that is better than Ertl's attempt.
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Lottery = tax on the lack of ability to comprehend the concept of odds.
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They were. Price tags on most (if not all) were under the shrink wrap.
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I don't think it has appeared in the Round 2 monthly videos yet. And the items that do appear often take another month or two to turn up locally.
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how to lower the stance? - Revell 65 Mustang fastback
Mark replied to eran_k's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The dropped spindles would be better on a 1:1 car; they wouldn't limit the up/down movement as shorter springs would. -
I'm seeing another problem. With the outer end of the A-arm (pivot point for the spindles) so close to the frame rail, there won't be much room for the wheels to turn, which will create one heck of a huge turning radius. Looks like you want really wide front wheels with a really deep offset. The thing to do here is to find 1:1 cars of similar size with a similar setup, and copy the setup on those.
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A lot of the magazines that ran his articles all fall under the same ownership now, after so much consolidation. If they were only smart enough to hire an archivist, they might be able to turn a buck or two doing a few special issues a year, like Life or Rolling Stone. Between Bradley, Tom Daniel, and William Moore, there's a bunch of Sketchpad issues right there. Cutaway drawings, compiled series articles...tons of stuff out there.
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The '67 Galaxie is pretty much in the same column as the Jo-Han '66 Fury being talked about lately. Probably not enough potential sales to justify tooling a new one, yet popular enough that a resin caster or 3D printer could crank out a bunch of them. Even limiting the conversation to big Fords, there are others that would sell better ('61 Starliner for one, the NASCAR guys would be all over it).
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1 to 1 Ford Wheel Question
Mark replied to stavanzer's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
'36-'39 had the "wide five" bolt pattern with rims resembling those of a VW Beetle. I believe the '40 and later wheels would work. A lot of early Fords, including nearly all hot nodded ones and many otherwise stock ones, were converted to hydraulic brakes using '40 and up parts. So the wheels would just be part of the conversion for those. -
how to lower the stance? - Revell 65 Mustang fastback
Mark replied to eran_k's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
For the front, it's probably easiest to just shift the wheel mounting stubs to relocate them in a lower position relative to where they are now. For the back, it's either trim the shackles at the ends of the leaf springs, flatten the springs a bit, or cut the axle from the spring and insert material in between to relocate the axle relative to the springs. I'd first look at photos of 1:1 Mustangs to see how much of the leaf spring is visible, then see if the kit is similar in that respect. If you can see more of the spring below the car on the model, then you'd want to alter that in order to make it look more like the actual car. -
Looks like the chassis from one of the MPC early modified kits ('34 Ford, '36 Chevy, Pinto, Vega). Basic frame is a '55-'57 Chevy unit as was used by many racers in the Sixties and Seventies.
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Revell '66 Chevelle wagon. I believe some of the '66 El Camino kits had them too.