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Mark

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Everything posted by Mark

  1. The fender pieces are all separate. MPC got a lot of different versions out of the basic truck, but tooled two cabs (stock, and flip front), two interior buckets, two pickup beds, and two engines. Great kit, especially for its time, but the box art on the '75 annual (first one issued) really doesn't let on how detailed it is. I bought one about a year after it came out, and was blown away by it.
  2. The original set had the Craftsman version of the wagon. Only a handful of the racing team sets included two kits with engines.
  3. LGB trains are generally thought to be 1/22 or 1/22.5 scale.
  4. Easiest to build: new Revell, AMT, old Revell, in that order. Most working features: old Revell, AMT, new Revell. Closest to stock body/trim: new Revell, other two are a tossup as neither has a stock grille or headlights. Old Revell does have a stock rear bumper that none of the others has, but I believe AMT has stock taillights that the two Revell kits lack. We're talking about the Sixties gassers here. The Revell pro street kit uses the gasser body, it has a modern chassis setup but for reasons unknown has no roll cage, not even a roll bar.
  5. If the car's base color is black, red, or some other dark color or earth tone, better make sure the white paint is one that covers well (like One-Shot pinstriping enamel)...
  6. Those three are older, promo-based kits. The Galaxie didn't need a separate hood as AMT made another Galaxie at the time that had one. The '70 Wildcat may have been announced as a 3-in-1 kit (several 1970 3-in-1s were announced but never appeared). But there was a '69 Wildcat kit with an engine, and it probably didn't sell well. They're hard to find now. So the '70 only appeared as an unassembled promo. The ones being designed now (including the coming '60 Chevy wagon and '65 Barracuda) will all have the separate hood and engine insert, to give a head start on an engine installation for those who want it.
  7. Chevrolet concentrated on the sportier Corvairs because not enough people were buying the ordinary ones. Ford's Falcon was running away from the Corvair sales-wise. They rushed out the Chevy II (pretty much a Falcon copy except for a couple of things GM wanted to experiment with--the bolt-on front end structure, and the single-leaf rear springs that they had been messing with for a few years prior). Chevrolet's own dealers weren't crazy about the Corvair either; the Chevy II bore that out. Why bother with a rear-engine car that required more training and a few special tools, when you could sell a car with a cast-iron engine up front, driving the rear wheels, like everything else Chevrolet sold. And, which, the average dealer mechanic could beat the flat-rate time for most repairs without having to learn anything new. The Monza might not have happened either. Ed Cole at first wanted all Corvairs to have automatic transmissions. That might have dulled the effect of a sportier Corvair. The sales people pushed for a manual transmission for the base model to keep the entry-level price down. Had GM pushed other divisions to take the Corvair (Pontiac was closest to getting it, though all divisions except Cadillac were offered it) the rear-engine car might have been better accepted by the general public. Still, it probably wasn't needed, the Chevy II did just fine in that segment.
  8. You might take a look at the "crossfire" twin throttle body fuel injection intakes from some early Eighties GM car kits. I know MPC Camaros and Firebirds had them, AMT '83 Camaro probably had it, MPC '82 Corvette should have it but does not. Reworking the top of one of those to fit the single carb should end up looking very close to what you want.
  9. The flip nose chassis (shared with the MPC '57 Chevy) looks more like a stretched Willys frame than either a Ford pickup or Tri-Five bowtie frame. The front axle in those kits is on the spindly side, a break waiting to happen especially if you put solid front tires on it.
  10. Most issues of the AMT '32 Ford roadster include a non-stock two-fours intake for an early Hemi. The only stock ones are in the Moebius and AMT letter series Chrysler kits.
  11. I'm pretty sure those are the correct decals for the original kit. Jo-Han may have messed with the later issue so they could drop the same sheet into the reissue and the ongoing Barracuda kit.
  12. Wonder if Do Bee has any brothers...
  13. Interesting car, but it was a big time fail so it wasn't shown long. I always thought AMT loosely based their Hippie Hemi dragster on it. You could start with one of those, or the Garlits Wynns Jammer (same chassis) then grab an AMT Digger 'Cuda and use the body as a starting point, cutting it down every which way and getting rid of the roof.
  14. Too, the tires and slicks in the original kit will be one-piece, hollow, and have Goodyear markings on both sides. They were later changed to Firestone Drag 500 on one side (still one-piece and hollow). Another, later revision made the front tires solid and the slicks two-piece. Some of those drag cars had radiator hoses molded in vinyl along with the (early) tires.
  15. Some of the kits previously available as Enthusiast Series have also been released minus engines, and with a much lower parts count. Finding a parts count will indicate which version is being offered (lack of a parts count will probably point to the simpler version). Same exterior details (separate door handles, windshield wipers, and so on), just an engine dummy instead of an actual engine.
  16. The wheels should be the only difference. The Sox & Martin version differs pretty much in wheels and tires only, as well as not including the stock air cleaner setup nor the NASCAR parts. The Keystone wheels are different from those in the Sox & Martin Barracuda kit. The Superbird wheels are the same for front and rear, while having different inner wheels.
  17. Jo-Han only brought back the Sox & Martin version just to say they had something "new". After the USA Oldies series petered out (probably due to lack of usable tooling), Jo-Han reissued two items at a time for most of the Eighties. One year it was the Rebel Machine and (I think) '68 Chrysler 300, another year the AMX and maybe the '70 Eldorado, and so on. The '63 Plymouth was somewhere in there too, along with the Superbird. Some items got reissued as X-EL promos only. The '68 Cadillac was only issued as a convertible in kit form, but a hardtop promo did appear.
  18. I don't trust that UV resin yet. Certainly not for filling something like this.
  19. First issues are way better. One-piece hollow tires and slicks, wire axles, smaller corresponding holes in engine block halves, sharper detail, way less flashing on parts.
  20. I used to be big on the "goo", but have since switched to epoxy putty. The goo takes forever to fully evaporate and "shrink out". Why wait? Two-part spot putty or epoxy putty cures chemically instead of through evaporation, way faster.
  21. I did this Dodge Coronet body with two-part spot putty and not epoxy putty, which would probably be my first choice were I to do this again. I might just do this again with a convertible. This is a Polar Lights '65 body, which has some proportion issues. It's not tall enough below the belt line, and the wheel openings are too big which accentuates the "not tall enough" problem. All that, and I moved the wheel openings and reworked the beltline too. This was done long before the Moebius altered wheelbase Dodge was a reality.
  22. Milliput white (not the dark green sold at Hobby Lobby, that's the "coarse" variety), Magic Sculpt, there are others. These sand and work about the same as the surrounding styrene. Too, the routed out areas aren't too big a job for two-part spot putty.
  23. Yes. That one first appeared in 1971 (alongside the original Shirley Shahan '69 AMX). The reissues of both were in the early/mid Eighties.
  24. Grind away detail, rout out the area, fill with epoxy putty. Done.
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