Snake45

Very nice, all of them--both before and after. Well done and model on!

I don't have any of the present day "qualifications," apparently.

I don't know why evs and "real" cars and trucks can't co-exist. For the vast majority of drivers, a car is little more than an appliance, to be used for a purpose and discarded and replaced when necessary. Many of those people would be well-served by a ev, assuming we come up with enough electricity to power them (which we do NOT have now--see California, Texas last winter, etc.) Those who really need the power, range, versatility, capabilities, etc of fueled cars and trucks can continue to use and enjoy those. Everybody happy!

If so, Good Will Points rescinded!

Oh, okay, I'll grudgingly grant you a few Good Will Points for quoting The Animals.

I won't work if you actually plan it. It only works because of The Natural Cussedness of the Universe.

I don't do that, but if you just HAVE to, the roof is a great place to do it. If you screw up the roof but everything else is fine, you can always give the model a vinyl top!

You're right, and a great Step #13 it is!

Oops, I forget to mention: Immediately after every coat, clean airbrush by blasting pure lacquer thinner through it at 35-40 psi until it comes out clear for a few seconds.

If Plumcrazy is still reading, here's Snake's E-Z Guide to Airbrushing and Great Paint: 1. Basic body & body parts prep: Removal of molding lines, filling of sinkholes, re-scribing of door and trunk lines, fitting of hood and valences, etc: 6-10 hours. 2. Wash body parts with soap & water, or rub down with household alcohol. Blow off dust. 3. Prime with one coat of cheap Touch N Tone flat white, flat gray, or flat black primer, depending on top color. Inspect for dust boogers or rough spots; sand with #800 if necessary. Repeat with second coat if necessary. 4. Thin Testor enamel ("little bottle" or Model Master) 50/50 with cheap generic lacquer thinner from Walmart or hardware store. Airbrush first coat at @ 25 psi, going for 95-98% coverage. 5. Airbrush second coat going for 98% to just barely 100% coverage. Let dry, sand out dust boogers if necessary. 6. Airbrush third coat, 100% coverage, just barely wet. 7. Airbrush 4th, 5th, etc coats, each just a little wetter than the last. Repeat as necessary until good, uniform color coverage is obtained. 8. Clearcoat if indicated. This is another whole discussion. 9. Let dry fully (until model doesn't smell like paint anymore). Inspect. Sand out dust boogers with #1000, wet. If paint has significant "orange peel," color-sand entire model with #1200 or #1500, wet. 10. Polish out paint with Wright's Silver Cream (available in house cleaning products section of Walmart) on old cotton or flannel shirt, or with felt strips. 11. Wash model under warm running water with soap and toothbrush to remove polish from panel lines and other crannies. You'll almost certainly miss a couple, so this will have to be repeated, too. 12. Drive on with construction and trim; finish model. Post pics here on the forum and bask in the praise. Model on, everyone!

I'll bet you could buy such a thing in Germany today!

I like this idea. Make all the roads like slot car tracks!

DISCLAIMER: Not posted to be "political" in any way, posted just because it's funny.

It's ordnance, not ordinance. And Plum Crazy wasn't available on the '68 Road Runner. Didn't come out until the '70 model year.

Who laughed? He's not kidding! Along with a lively discussion on how many angels can dance on the various shapes of P-51D canopies. (Okay, I totally made that one up, so you can laugh.)

Hey, let's look at the bright side: So far he seems interested in just applying one color to a model car. What if he were interested in lowriders? Or--God forbid--WWII German airplanes? In 1/72 scale?

True. This is the most entertaining thread on here in WEEKS! But here's an actual helpful tip for Mr. Plumcrazy: Too thin is better than too thick. If it's too thick, you can quickly gum up your airbrush, and it's not easy to clean out. Too thin and it sprays fine--and at lower pressue, too. I think in 50 years of airbrushing, I've only ever gone too, TOO thin once, maybe twice. And that's easy to fix with just a touch more paint.

HAHAHAHAHAHA! Good one! Mr. Wagon brings up an excellent point, and allows me to highlight one big difference between model painting and shooting: With shooting, once the shot's broken, it's gone, and there's nothing you can do to change or improve the result you're gonna get. But with a paint job, if you get a run or a dust booger or some orange peel, you can fix it when it's dry with color-sanding, polishing, and sometimes more paint. IMHO, learning to polish paint is a more valuable skill than learning how to lay it down perfectly.

It's a bit humid for optimal results.

Fellow modelers, let me assure you that the key word in that sentence is TRY. No one is actually able to DO that. If you can put every round in a 5" group or less at 1000 yards, you'll have bragging rights almost anywhere you ever go. And you'll win a BUTTLOAD of money in bets!

I do, and I do. And IMHO you're just vastly overthinking this. As has been posted here recently, painting a model car is at least at much art as "science." There's no substitute for experience. Those of us here who can now lay on a pretty good paint job almost every time can tell you about a long history of not-so-good paint jobs, failures that had to be stripped and redone, and so forth. If you insist on working up a paint "load" for every model you build, you're not going to get many models built. To go back to your reloading analogy, have you ever heard that "Every gun and ammo combination is a law unto itself"? It's true. You can buy every loading manual on the market and even write to the experts at Handloader magazine, and NO ONE can tell you what's going to be the most accurate load in YOUR gun. You just have to shoot to find out what works for YOU. Much the same is true for model painting. You just have to jump in and start trying things, based on the best advice you can find. Good luck with your efforts, and happy painting!

Interesting experiment--if it can be restored to normal. (And that's done very, very soon.) If it can't be converted back, then it's a disastrophe, a heretical shame, a blasphemous disgrace!

It's not an MG, it's a Triumph GT6 (more or less). Good luck with it!