peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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6 hours ago, Mike 1017 said:
I strip paint with Order Free Easy Off it works for me. I am kinda confused about it not working
Mike
Mike, if you read that post again it states "The odor free Easy-Off does not have Lye and will not work for stripping paint." Basically what I mentioned that the low-odor Easy-Off does not contain Lye and will not strip paint like the original stinky Easy-Off.
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The paint stripping ingredient in Castrol Super Clean (CSC) and in the original Easy-Off spray is Lye (Sodium Hydroxide). The odor free Easy-Off does nto have Lye and will not work for stripping paint. CSC is really the best thing to use since it comes as a liquid which does not need to be sprayed (spraying is what contaminates the air with the nasty fumes).
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Well, it still wouldn't hurt to clear the browser's cache and cookies (and restart the browser, or even a full reboot) on your desktop.
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Yes, unlike the opaque paints/inks used in silk-screened decals, inks used in all consumer CYMK color printers (laser and ink jet, or even the Alps Micro dry printer) is translucent, and it relies on the print surface being white for proper color rendition.
And yes, since ink jet ink is actually liquid, the printed surface has to be able to absorb the ink. Ink-jet specific decal paper has a special ink-absorbing layer on the surface. Laser printer decal paper does not - it has a smooth glossy surface, so liquid ink will just bead up on it. Laser printers use dry powder toners which are fused to the printed surface using heat (they are basically melted into the paper), so smooth glossy paper works well.
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So it isn't the photos but what happens withign the forum's software after you hit the "Submit Reply" button. Weird!
I wonder if you replied on that thread without any photos contained in the text, would it actually get posted, or also fail with the same failure?
If you are using a browser on a Windows PC, you could try clearing the browser's cache and deleting cookies, but if you use a smart phone/tablet or Apple Mac, I have no idea on how to clear those.
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Usually vehicles of that time with a unusual shape of the body had their doors swing open to the outside of the body. Your first idea should work.
As I see it, you have to move the hinge point (the tubing) closer to the door opening's edge. The loops might also have to be larger (to increase the swing diameter. You will also likely have to thin the door's inner surface at the hinged edge.
The fact that this is a suicide hinging does not matter. Since the sculpted body has the same shape at the front of the door, you would have the same problem with front-hinged door.
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To be honest, I would feel weird about building a model where certain parts will be assembled under stress. I would be worried that after some time problems (such as cracks) might develop. When customizing 1:1 vehicles, the body's sheet metal can be shaped (bent, etc.) so any stress is minimized, but with plastic the stress will remain forever.
Maybe that's why I don't do any serious body customizing on my models.
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Ah, ok, so that's the clamping action. Got it!
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I guess I have hard time seeing a "clamp" (at least going by what the word "clamp" means to me). Are those metal staples considered clamps?
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On 12/5/2024 at 2:35 PM, Tim W. SoCal said:
Where I work, we travel to different delivery hubs and maintain a fleet of vehicles. This morning I was assigned a work order that said "Diag driveability" which is usually followed by the driver's concern and/or complaint. This work order stated nothing more. When I got to the station where the vehicle was located, there was a hand-written repair tag that the driver submitted with the keys. It read "needs text drive; something wrong" Even though I'm now off work and home, I'm still trying to find out what a "text drive" is.... This is almost as good as the repair tag I got a few months back that said "vehicle unsafe, smells like brake fluid is low"
To me this is looks like careless spelling mistake. It probably means "test" as in "needs test drive; something wrong". Maybe the person who wrote it did not know how to spell "test"?
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Since they posted fine in this thread, they are now uploaded to the forum (in your attachments).
Just go to the thread you want to reply in, then start your reply and when you want to add the images, just copy/paste the direct links to the 2 photos here:
As you paste those links, they will automatically expand to photos.
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11 hours ago, espo said:
I tend to enjoy much of the British humor and besides the Top Gear shows we used to watch BBC shows such as Coupling, the Jeff caricature would leave me laughing for most of the show. This one was also tried here and, in my mind, never came close to the BBC version. Keeping Up Appearances was full of sight gages and funny situations and the way the characters handled them was priceless. Waiting for God was always funny as well.
And so was One Foot in the Grave, Are You Being Served, and Vicar of Dibley. Then there is Monty Python, but some people find that one too silly or weird. Fawlty Towers was great too.
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4 hours ago, Falcon Ranchero said:
But he's left the Bird out in the snow for the past 4 years, and the two of them are covered with 5 feet of snow as we speak. Hoping maybe to thoroughly check them out in spring, just to find out more about the cars.
Actually just the snow cover or rain on a parked car are not a major problem. It is the salt on the roads in the winter if the car is driven that causes issues. Another big problem is if the uncovered car sits in the open and all the dead falling leaves and pine needles settle into all the low areas on the car and are left on it. When they get wet from rain or snow, they retain the moisture which starts to slowly rot the body. Don't ask me how I know (and now know better).
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Whether it is or not is to me less important than the fact that the color-shifting flakes seem way out of scale (too large) for 1:12 or small scale cars. It might be ok for 1:8 scale, but it would still look like the glittery finish used on bass-boats.
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24 minutes ago, D.Pack said:
This rattlecan paint is supposedly not as 'hot' as TS primer, so less solvent means no solvent popping?
The "hotness" of the paint has nothing to to with amount of solvent present in it. It is the chemical composition of the solvent itself. Solvents can be substances like naphtha, alcohols, acetone, and many others. They are usually blended using multiple ingredients, and depending on the blend, some are "hotter" than others.
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On 11/28/2024 at 4:00 AM, Bugatti Fan said:
One has to ask the question why it is that most manufacturers initially market their model kits at International Toy Fairs
Model railroad manufacturers also display their models at those toy fairs, and we all know how expensive that hobby is, and how elaborate adult-built model train layouts can get.
Also remember the warnings usually present on model packaging about the item not recommended to kids under 14 (or whatever that age is nowadays), and also about difficulty level (again that goes back to the age thing). Do teenagers over 14 play with toys? Do 59 year old people play with toys? I guess they can.
I guess it all goes back to definitions of toys and scale models. I guess a scale model can be a toy just as some toys can be a scale models.
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Back when they were still around, American SATCO sold a wide range of rubber tires which were used by various Japanese kit manufacturers. They had Pirellis, but none in scale 14" size. Here is a listing of their tires. They show up on eBay from time to time.
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3 hours ago, mr moto said:
Try naphtha (VM&P). Available at any hardware or home store. I've never had it harm any paint though I usually use lacquer. Guitar makers use it to clean the finishes on their work.
I would be careful with that. Naphtha will dissolve Testors enamels and other not-fully-cured enamels. It could affect some lacquers (again, if lacquers are not fully dried). Also if left on any paint surface for longer time, it might affect (dull) them. After all it Naphaha is an organic solvent used as thinner, but a quick light touch wipe should not hurt the lacquer's surface.
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Mike,
since you mentioned that you have been using the Scotch blue painter's tape problem-free for years, what has changed to cause the problem?
Is the blue tape different somehow?
Are you using different type of paints/primer?
Are you spraying the paint different way than in the past?
Are you applying the tape to the painted surface before it is fully dry? That would likely cause the tape adhesive to soften and leave adhesive residue.
I like Tamiya masking tape (or Washi tape) but I have used Scotch brand blue tape in the past without problems.
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I'm not into hot rods so I was unaware of those wheels in the '36 Ford kit. To me these wheels look like ones used in VW Beetles or early Porsches (which were somewhat related to Beetles). I did not realize that '36 Fords used similar bolt pattern/wheel design.
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Excellent news for procrastinators like me who waited too long and the last remaining model parts plating service (LMKC) closed their doors.
I wonder if Spotlight Hobbies purchased their vacuum metalizing equipment from LMKC's Dale, or they acquired their own (or maybe outsource the service like Chrome Tech USA did)?
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The 63/37 solder is a standard eutectic solder which has been used for electronic component soldering for many decades (until the lead had to be eliminated from solder for environmental reasons). I still use it for all the electronic part soldering because it is eutectic, and has a relatively low melting point, but it is not a very strong solder. Silver bearing solder is much stronger.
Flux is vital for good solder joints but rosin flux is not very aggressive. If it worked for Greg, that s great. For soldering harder to solder metals I use acid-based flux like Tix Flux which is based on Zinc Chloride. It makes soldering steel much easier. Of course the soldered areas have to be well cleaned first.
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There are many different "experts" out there giving "advice", some of which might be more or less accurate. Often it's inaccurate even if the "expert" is meaning well.
There are many different compressors out there. Some with storage tanks, others without. Also, how hot is the compressed air, and what is the recommended air temperature? One thing that is certain is that a moisture trap is absolutely required to remove moisture from the compressed air. But since the airbrush hose is connected *AFTER* the trap, that air is already dry (and cool), so why would additional cooling (to the room's ambient temperature) be even needed? Logically thinking, that curly hose cooling air thing makes no sense.
Personally, I use a Badger airbrush and I prefer using the very thin black rubbery hose from Badger. It is more like thin tubing than a hose. The cheapest one they have. It is very flexible and light.
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Seems that more and more drivers are either purposefully ignoring traffic rules or are just oblivious to them (or both).
Home made decals. Advice needed !
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
Yes, that special ink-absorbing coating on the ink jet decal paper can get melted on the the laser printer's hot fuser roller, messing it up.