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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. The "glue" is not really the main thing which keeps decal film adhered to the surface. Mostly it is natural cling.  That glue is dextrose-based water-soluble adhesive which mostly remains on the wet backing paper.  Whatever little is left on the decal film might help with adhesion a little.

    You should be able to apply the decals inside the "glass".  If you worried about adhesion, carefully flip the decal film over on the wet backing paper, so some of the glue will stick to the front surface, then apply it to the inside of the glass.

  2. 44 minutes ago, Suburban_Hooligan said:

    a wrap is a vinyl sticker type material you put over vehicle panels.  you can do different colors, liveries, etc.  you can even run it through a printer and have photo quality images on your car.  it's like giving your car a non permanent paint job.  it's a real popular thing right now. 

    I do know what wraps are, but I just didn't understand the meaning of "lets call it dark rust orange."  That description seemed odd to me. Like you didn't really want to describe what it looked like.  Was the wrap a photo-realistic depiction of a rusty metal surface? Otherwise, what would be wrong with a dark rust orange colored vehicle?  At least this is how my brain saw your comment.  Seemed that you were giving a hint, and I just don't get it.

  3. On 7/11/2024 at 1:13 PM, Bainford said:

    I have heard this argument before, but I don't think it is a valid method of choosing kits to reissue. It is purely a supply & demand thing. If supply consists of one (or very few) items and demand consists of a very small number of keen bidders, the selling price will be very high. However, a re-issue run of a dozen kits might completely fill that demand. This makes it a poor metric for choosing a kit to produce. Furthermore, I would estimate that at least half of those paying the big bucks only do so because the kit is very rare. They aren't buying a [Jo-Han 1970 Rebel Machine], they are collectors buying a rare kit. As soon as the kit is re-issued and becomes commonly available, The luster is gone and they no longer desire it.

    That's why I mentioned that the eBay thing should be just one of several sources of model desirability research.  I was not suggesting looking for outrageously high selling prices, just the general volume of kit's eBay sales.

    The other methods mentioned earlier were getting feedback from show visitors, and of course online forums.  But both of those are also very small sample of potential kit buyers out there.   Manufacturer has to produce tens of thousands of kits to make some profit.  The more data is available about potential sales, the better informed decision the manufacturer can make.

    • Like 1
  4. 3 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

    one was a private messages from my account to another member but most were other peoples. i put it in this thread as it may be related. Dave mentioned strange requests earlier in this thread and i thought this would was strange. i also reported my post so admin see it

    Not trying to be argumentative but I just read all Dave's posts in this thread and nowhere he asks for all types of forum strangeness to be reported here. Same in the "Forum now unusable — SOOO slow" (locked) thread where he pointed members here for reporting sluggish website behavior. 

    Speaking of which (and bringing this thread back on topic), the forum has been quite sluggish for me this morning. :(

  5. What I think would be helpful to estimate whether to reissue some older kits would be for them to monitor sold eBay listings of the original models.  If they fetch high prices or show bidding wars, there is a good chance that a new run would sell well.  Not to use that as a sole reason for reissue, but use those numbers along with other request they get for reissues to estimate whether a new run is justified.

  6. Are you sure they were personal or private messages and not public messages?  Both can be used for communicating between members, and public ones (as the name implies) are viewable by everybody.  I accidentally sent a public message  in the past without realizing ('til later) that it was public.

    Anyway, this should have been in a separate thread as it has nothing to do with the subject of this thread.

  7. 10 hours ago, The Junkman said:

    Ahh, Rivian.  For those who just don't think a Cybertruck is ugly enough.

    Neah. To me Rivians look like any other contemporary SUV or pickup. The only strange thing are those vertical Maxi-pad headlights. Cybertruck is much much stranger and uglier.  I saw a black one and drove behind a stainless one recently.  I don't know why anybody would want one. Well, just to be "different" I guess.

    • Like 1
  8. Tenax-7R and Ambroid Pro Weld are basically Methylene Chloride.  You can get a quart size container of it on Amazon for less than cost of few tiny bottles of those no-longer available cements.

    I you still want small bottles, try Tack-it II plastic welder from https://www.jmhobbysupply.com/   It is also  Methylene Chloride and comes in the same bottle that Tenax-7R did. My local  hobby shop carries it in those 1oz. bottles for $5.99.

    • Like 1
  9. On 7/5/2024 at 3:57 PM, Mark said:

    If I get poor service somewhere, it's usually the last time I go there, at least to that location.  No point telling them off...next time you're there, you might get some "extra protein" in your value meal.  Just sayin'...

    Unfortunately that is a real possibility.  Spitefulness seems to be norm nowadays, since there seems not to be any repercussions or punishment for bad deeds.

  10. That reminded me that back in the day companies making plastic parts used to reuse chopped up sprue material to  mold some plastic items not usually visible (like internal parts or bottom covers of radios, electric clocks, etc.) . When the chopped up sprues had multiple colors, the molded parts had a marbled or swirled look them.

  11. 4 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

    Never seen that black Model Master container liquid cement over here in the UK.

    I guess that Revell Contacta Cement being one of the many adhesives that I use must be very similar as the application of it is also through a small bore metal tube.

    Wonder if it is the same stuff but with different labels?

    I would speculate that it is a very good possibility.  Model companies seem to do their share of using each other's products.  Also keep in mind that mine is around 30 years old, while Ron's bottle shows copyright 2018 (is 6 years or less).  I believe Ron's has a plastic tube applicator.

  12. 8 hours ago, R. Thorne said:

    This is what I use for strong welded type bonds and, yes, it is ModelMaster.  I have had this for quite a while.  Bought an extra when I heard it was being replaced by the Testors version.    When it is gone, I guess I will try the Testors.

    IMG_2186.jpeg  IMG_2185.jpeg

    Ron, Model Master was a line of modeling products made by Testors.  So when Rustoleum took Testors over, they also acquired the Model Master brand.  So your Model Master branded bottle is likely the same stuff as the glue in Testors branded bottle, since it is produced by Rustoleum (not by  the "old" Testors company).

    I have that glue in my arsenal. Mine is probably over 20 years old, and it is still probably 80% full (that shows how little I use that glue).  It has a hypodermic applicator tube, and it came with a piece of stainless wire to ream the tube if it clogged.  But even then Testors was under the RPM company's umbrella (along with Rustoleum).

    TestorsCement01.JPG.3abd4ed3f3238904f630a79a0d3da624.JPG

    TestorsCement02.JPG.a1ab2dec72710d56ad3e74270a7c7bad.JPG

     

  13. 2 hours ago, Rich Chernosky said:

    Silvering of decals is when the clear edge of the decal shows. It is supposed to be clear and match the background. Flat paint has a very slight texture and decals don't stick well to it. Kinda like scotch tape on a dusty concrete floor. Silvering most often occurs on flat paint but it can happen on any surface. Depends on the decal and the glue used. 

    Exactly. If you Google image search for "decal silvering" you will find lots of examples. Here are some:

    f2g1d_201104_5fa2cd01e3f9a-1600x1200.jpg

     

    6816191425_8cd7a4982b_b.jpg

    You will find mostly military subjects because those are usually painted using flat finish paints (when silvering is most likely to occur).

  14. 10 minutes ago, sfhess said:

    People don't care about regulations and do whatever they want.  Enforcement of equipment violations (in most cases any traffic enforcement) is nonexistent.

    That's exactly my point.  this world is becoming more and more like the old Wild West. Everything goes with no accountability. even when caught, you get a slap on the wrist, and continue to brake the law.

  15. Well, not quite that easy.

    If there are any white decals, obviously your printer can't do that.

    You are also correct with the colors being off. There is some loss of color accuracy in the scanning process itself, but the biggest problem is that consumer printers print using translucent inks which for the correct color rendition require white base (the paper they are printed on). 

    If you print the scan onto a typical transparent film decal paper and apply the decal onto any surface that is not white, it will skew the way the colors look. For  example if a yellow decal is applied to blue surface, the yellow decal will look green.  If applied to a dark surface, all the translucent printed colors will almost disappear.

    Many factory decals  are printed using silk screening process where each color is actually opaque ink or paint applied separately to the paper, as where a home computer printer makes up all the colors using very small dots of cyan, magenta, yellow, and black ink.  It will never look as good as the original decal.

    There are workarounds for the problem (like printing the color decal images onto a white decal film, then trimming the feel around the decal image, but that is a hassle.

    For the best quality a decal  should be scanned, converted to a vector format, then printed using a printer which can print white and a white ink/toner, and also has the ability to apply the white  under each color image.  There are specialized printers which have those capabilities, but usually very expensive, making them out of reach for average modelers.

    There are decal companies  which custom print decals for you, but it is not cheap, especially if you don't provide a print-ready artwork (as vectorizing and cleaning up a simple decal scan takes time).

    As you see, it is nowhere as simple as scan them print on your ink jet or color laser home  printer.

  16. 9 hours ago, rattle can man said:

    like so many car mods, because they can. it doesn't matter if they should.

    Well, a related question is why do manufacturers think up and make these "accessories" in the first place? Probably because they think some people will buy them.  And we have come a complete circle.  :D  Most people enjoy standing out in the crowd, and that can be done to various degree.  I actually think the more subtle "angry looking" Jeep grilles look cool, but like everything else, it can be overdone, and instead of standing out, it gets freakish. But it is all individual point of view.

    Speaking of Jeep accessories I thought that the rules stated that only white or amber lights are allowed at the front of road vehicles, and I see plenty of Jeeps with green, red, pink, purple, blue "halo" ring lights around the headlight. I guess either the rules have changed or cops are too lazy to bother with them.  I  remember when "blue dots" in taillights were illegal too.  That was subtle compared to those halo lights.

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