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Posts posted by peteski

  1. 4 hours ago, Vintage chromoly said:

    I recently ordered Scalefinishes engine enamel. It’s not good stuff. It stays tacky for several days. I was disappointed, based on how good their lacquer base is.

    I had a similar issue. And when it dried, the paint itself remained soft.  When I contacted Scale Finishes about it, they sent me a bottle of hardener to mix with the paint before airbrushing.

    • Like 1
  2. 11 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

    I didn't see any solutions offered at all.

    Just a number of statements about how paint and glues won't adhere to various plastics.

    Sure, I suppose that you might call that "advice", but it's not particularly productive when the OP is looking for solutions to his problem, and not just proclamations of it's impossibility.

    Well, I mentioned to make a RTV rubber casting and cast the parts in urethane resin (because from what I can see, no adhesive will likely be reliable enough, and paint will likely not stick well to it either).  The OP actually replied that he might give that a try.  Seems like a productive advice to me. Sometimes unconventional solutions are good too.

    At this point I am tired of this.  You are right Steve:  5-minute epoxy is very good and sound advice.

  3. 7 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

    And you know it's "not suitable" because?

    I'm Only trying to offer an option that could at least be tried by the OP.

    All of the speculation that it won't work, is at this point, just that......speculation.

    Offering "something" is a whole heck of a lot more useful than offering nothing and just shooting everything else down.


    If you bothered to read my several earlier posts you will see that I offered plenty of advice. You might not like or agree with it, but it is advice.  Like I said, I use 5-minute epoxy in my modeling and household repairs, so I do have a clue about what I'm talking about. My personal experience with those slippery plastics we are dealing with in this thread, and 5-minute epoxy is that it doesn't create a usable bond. Period, End of advice.  That is the "because".

    If you wish, I can also post some photos of the 5-minute epoxies I have in my adhesive's arsenal.  I don't have the JB Weld brand, so as I mentioned, if it works for bonding those hard to bond plastics, it must be a super-adhesive.

    But as you said, we are all just blowing smoke since this is all just experiences, suggestions, and speculations.  But it is fun!

  4. 4 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

    That said, I have, and always will, endorse 5 minute epoxy as a superior adhesive alternative over most of the glue types used by modelers today.

    Most glue types?! Are you saying that 5-minute epoxy used for example to join 2 unpainted styrene parts is superior to solvent cement which will permanently fuse (melt) those parts, or even CA glue which also produces very strong joint?

    I do use 5-minute epoxy for various tasks, but only when I think it is the best adhesive for a particular type of a joint  I find its adhesion to clean bare plastic far  inferior than welding-types of cement or even CA glue.  5-Minute epoxy can be peeled off fairly easily from styrene ,or any other smooth surface (like metal).

    Maybe you found some miracle adhesion 5-minute epoxy?

  5. 7 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    I have no favorite, I just use what will fit my need at the time, per model. If you're looking for one magic bullet, just be warned that it may be here today and gone tomorrow. We've seen that happen with several brands over the 65 years or so, at least I've been painting models for.

    Same here. I thought the original question is a bit too vague.  For airbrushing car bodies?  Or other parts of the model (from chassis to small parts like a carburetor or a starter)?

    No favorites here - I just airbrush whatever paint I find best in for a specific job.  And I have probably a dozen of different paint types (from various manufacturers).  I do minimal brush painting, so most of them get applied through my airbrush.

    • Like 1
  6. 23 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

    Depends on how many identical ones you need to justify it Pete.       RTV and all that is a bit pricey.    If they all differ then using the plastic card would be more viable.

    That is very dependent on how badly you need that single part, and how much hobby budget you have.

  7. 4 hours ago, ewetwo said:

    Seems like the builder has done some work on them. 2 chassis he has set to go. I haven't a clue on building resins. I'll just sell them.

    Plastic (Polystyrene, ABS) *IS* resin.  So if you have been building model kits from companies like Revell or AMT, you have do have a clue how to build resin. :D

    What I'm trying to say is that if either of those bodies is something you're interested in building, I would say keep them and give them a try.  Just don't try using any of the standard solvent-based plastic cements.  That is the biggest difference between the polystyrene resin and urethane resin.

  8. 10 minutes ago, Muncie said:

    The upholstery paint that I used seemed to get it's adhesion by "melting" into the top surface of the plastic.  It actually softened the plastic until it dried.

    You hit the nail on the head.  Polypropylene and Polyethylene plastics are not attacked by any of the strong solvents (like acetone or similar) used in paints. So paint will not fuse into them.


    But then we don't even know for certain what type of plastic we are dealing with. I'm just speculating.  It could possibly be nylon or  POM ( Polyoxymethylene  ) which is pretty much impossible to glue or paint.

    • Like 1
  9. Since you quoted my reply, that looks like a photo of HEI ignition distributor, with electronic module inside instead of mechanical points.  Since it still has a vacuum advance unit, it is probably an early HEI, but it still has a 4-pin electronic module to generate spark pulses.



    • Like 1
  10. The other thing I mentioned in my original post was that pain adhesion.  even if you can get the part to stick. what good is it of the paint will not adhere well?

    As far as I understand adhesion promoters, those are designed for using automotive paints on polyurethane (urethane) parts, not polypropylene or polyethylene.  But I would be happily proven wrong.

  11. 4 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

    TinyLimp is the object of my wrath today.

    Last 10 times it updated, it saved all the open tabs in both browsers I was running, so going back to work was relatively seamless. It changed a few settings, but no biggie to change them all back.

    This time it dumped every single open tab.

    I guess the people who write the update protocols don't ever actually USE the silly pilly willy product.

    It's not a big deal, as I'd saved all the addresses of everything I really needed easy access to, but in general, it's a sloppy way to do business.

    Yes, I know...use another operating system bla bla bla. But that's NOT the point.


    In my browser under the "Go" menu I have an option to  "restore previous session" which would bring all those tabs back if for some reason the browser comes back empty.

    I also have an option to "bookmark this group of tabs" which saves all the current tabs as a bookmark and will restore back to the original layout if I so choose.

  12. How about a lunar eclipse? No special glasses needed.  We had one in Jan. 2019.  It was a full eclipse, but it looks boring. It looks more interesting just before or past the full eclipse.  The brownish/orange glow looks really odd.


  13. On 2/26/2024 at 3:02 PM, PierreR89 said:

    Any suggestions for a superglue that does not go bad if it is unused for months/years?

    Doesn't exist.  Moisture in the air causes it to slowly start setting.  The thinner the CA is, the faster it will thicken.  Some people put it in refrigerator to extend the life (because air is dry in there), but I have a way to extend its life, but it takes work.  When I buy a new bottle I don't cut off the tip of the spout.  I have another older empty clean bottle where the tip is opened.  I pour just enough of the glue in that empty bottle to last me for a month or two.  Then I make sure the seal of the original bottle is clean and I reseal it quickly.  I also plug up the tip of the in-use bottle with a piece of wire tightly sitting in the hole.  When needed I dispense the CA from the 2nd bottle into a small depression in a dental mixing cup and reseal the 2nd bottle.  I then apply the glue using a forked needle applicator.  No, I don't use large quantities and what I do to extend its life I suspect is way too much bother for most modelers, but it works for me.




    Using this system I often get few years of usable CA glue from the single bottle. As you can see, I also put a date code on my bottles so I know how old it is. Yes, I'm "different".   But it eventually every CA thickens up.  It is best to buy smaller bottles, even if they cost more per ounce than larger bottles.  If you buy larger bottle, you'll end up tossing half of the glue you paid for anyway.

    Also, no glue remains usable forever. I have some really tightly capped old Testors orange tube cement and the tubes are hard as a rock. I need to toss them.


    • Like 1
  14. 1 hour ago, stitchdup said:

    well you say that but there is an efficient network of electric vehicles that can pull a lot more than 9 cars and its been used by every auto manufacturer for over 100 years.

    Yes, but not in "Amurica".

    I'm sure that you know that the American railroad network is nothing like European or Asian network, but also there are very little electrified part of the railroad.  Diesel locomotives are what is used. They still belch stinky exhaust.  And those Diesel-powered trains do  transport lots of new cars to various destinations in cars likely much larger than the European counterparts.



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