peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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40 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Then explain the chemistry, please, that accounts for different viscosities of CA, i.e. thin, medium, and thick.
Solvents and inert fillers are used to moderate the viscosity of other "resins", for example styrene monomer as a thinner in the case of polyester, acetone as a thinner in the case of many epoxies, and various rheological and thixotropic agents used as "thickeners" in both.
And as for "sink marks", I routinely bond sheet and strip styrene with solvents, and have no sink marks unless I use way too much.
I suspect it is a different chemical (or even molecular) composition. If you let thin CA glue age, it thickens up (but it is still usable). If there was a solvent involved, the liquid level would go down, but it stays the same, even though the liquid has thickened up. No solvent to evaporate.
Or it might be something as simple as the thin CA glue is its natural state, and there are thickeners added to make it more viscous.
You also mention no sink marks when using solvents, but that is not a valid comparison. Those totally evaporate after the plastic is melted. I'm talking about a cement which has some body to it (CA glue is type of acrylic resin).
I don't believe styrene monomer evaporates when polyester resin hardens - it remains in the solidified resin. Acetone does evaporate from epoxy, so the epoxy remaining in the bond or mold will shrink slightly.
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So does that imply that none of those barriers are effective for semi-trucks either?
Do passenger electric vehicles really weight more that equivalent size IC cars? After all, they do not use heavy lead-acid batteries but lighter Lithium batteries, and they don't have the large metal engine block or transmissions of IC cars.
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1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Trying to explain a relatively simple concept to a know-nothing know-it-all who's intent on reinventing the wheel...and isn't familiar with the concept of "r o u n d ".
"Round" is so old fashion. Who needs round.
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These 3D printed kits should be currently available on eBay.
Paul Hettic also makes a complete resin kit of the '77 T-Bird (which I was lucky enough to pick up on eBay), but that one can get quite pricey depending on how many motivated people bid on it. Paul also sells a '77 Cougar. Paul also had a lengthy thread on the forum about mastering his kit.
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1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Only thing I've ever experienced that's similar is cracking of cold-formed styrene strip and sheet when solvent glue hits it (I don't use CA for styrene-to-styrene bonds).
Yes, I have also encountered this problem. In my experience MEK-based cement causes the cracking while Methylene Chloride does not.
As for CA's solvent, I don't believe there is any. CA is simply a liquid resin which polymerizes when it hardens. It can emit fumes as it sets, but that is not due to any solvent evaporation it is the resin itself that emits the fumes. If there was solvent., the glue joints would have sink marks.
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50 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
I’ve had some exhibit a glossier finish than dead flat.
Steve
Eggshell maybe?
None of the primers I have seen have dead flat finish. Maybe it's all in the definition. To me dead flat finish is the old Floquil RR colors Engine Black.
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So what is your goal? Are you trying to build something out of all those pieces, or just curious?
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I have seen this happen too. Not sure if this is caused by certain chemical formulation of that polystyrene sheet, or something else. Thin polystyrene is usually the most prone to this. I never really did any analysis. I do wonder if using BSI Odorless CA glue would prevent this from happening. Just a speculation.
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My point was that all the primers I have ever worked with produced a non-glossy finish. Call it what you will.
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What exactly does "eggshell"mean? Surface sheen, or texture? Primers by design have flat or satin finish.
About 30 years ago I built a 1:8 Scale Pocher Mercedes. I sprayed its bare black plastic body parts with a gloss black Epoxy Appliance paint spray can. It came in a large can (like Krylon paints). I don't recall the brand name or where I bought it. Probably a local hardware store. I sprayed it on rather heavily, and it gave me nice smooth gloss black finish. No primer, no rubbing, buffing, compounding, polishing or waxing.
From what I see is most modelers are too timid when spray painting, so they end up with all sorts of rough surfaces which need to be massaged to look presentable. Spray heavy, but not heavy enough for the paint to run. I guess it takes practice although I was fairly new to spray painting when I built that model.
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I got mine over a week ago from Hobby Search (1999). This is my first encounter with this kit (since I never got the original BTTF version). Looks like very nice kit. Similar quality to Tamiya. What I find a bit odd is that the body surface has a rough pebbly texture. Inside of the body is perfectly smooth, so I guess they did that on purpose. Maybe to help simulate the brushed stainless steel surface? I think it would have been better if they made the surface look like it was sanded in single direction using sandpaper.
The smooth clear headlight lenses are also a bit of a let down. Fortunately, years ago I bought a set of MODELER'S lenses, and those are the right size and one set has very nice striations molded in the surface.
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Sounds like phishing scam. I had similar emails asking for favors from friends on other online forums. Someone spoofs their email account. Do not respond. If you are worried, contact him using the forum's PM system. However, there is likely nothing he can do to stop this.
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You don't have to seal laser printed decals before dunking them in water (because the toner is not water-soluble like ink jet ink), but some laser printer toners can flake off or be scratch off the decal paper, so it is good to clear coat the decal after it is applied to the model.
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12 hours ago, BK9300 said:
I’ve never made decals before, but have had to make images smaller for various reasons, to use in documents, sometimes losing a degree of resolution. How have you been able to maintain the readability as you’ve reduced images you want to use as decals?
With bitmapped images like JPG, PNG, GIF, etc, it is usually the other way around. If you take a small bitmap image and blow it up, the quality is reduced as you can actually start seeing the individual pixels enlarged making the image look rough.
I wonder if what you are doing is changing the image resolution (dpi or dots-per-inch). If you have a 300dpi image and resample it to 72dpi, the image will be smaller, but you will also loose details.
Then of course the printers physical resolution is the limit of the amount of detail it can print. If you have a 3200dpi image and the printer you are using onlky has a 1200dpi resolution, the printed image will lose detail.
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Fall and Winter are usually seasons for model railroad shows. The club I'm member of has its show in early October, in Massachusetts.
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Yes the problem is back. After I click on anything my browser site at "Waiting for www.modelcarsmag.com. . ." for long time before the page loads.
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9 minutes ago, Kit Basher said:
At least one episode of Adam 12 (I think, not sure).
Yes, I can conform that - just watched that episode not too long ago. The bad guys' car ends up slipping into the deeper channel filled with water, and the catches on fire.
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Naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid, Coleman Camp Fuel liquid, or VM&P Naphtha form hardware store) will easily remove the residue, but it might slightly fog the clear plastic if applied for too long. That should easily buff out. 70% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol will not remove the adhesive, but 91% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol should work (although not as good as Naphtha). Other stain removers like Goo Gone should also work, but I don't use those.
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Was "German Silver" in that line of Testors ar Colors, or was it from another line? I remember using that color on one of my models.
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2 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:
SVG is for "scaleable vectored graphics". That means that the resolution is the same, no matter what size you make it. Lines stay lines, not lines of pixels.
Yes, I mentioned vector graphics in my initial reply. SVG is vector graphic format. It is much easier easier to manipulate than bitmaps (JPG, etc.) without loss in quality.
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"Lowering the stress level"? How about those times we get really frustrated or angry when we botch a paint job, lose a part, or the kit is not fitting well? They probably mean artistic activities different than model kit building.
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If you use bitmapped images (photos), when you create them choose a non-lossy format like PNG, GIF, or TIFF. JPG is usually lossy, which means nto only overall quality of the image can be compromised, but you usually get some unusual artifacts in the white areas of the image. Some programs (not all) allow you to select non-lossy JPG compression, but that is rare.
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I use BMF laser decal paper with Alps and it is a good quality paper. But I have no experience with the ink jet version of their decal paper. One woudl assume it also works properly. As I mentioned, try selecting lower print quality and maybe dpi.
Yes, laser printers (and Alps printers) need laser decal paper. It doesn't have the ink absorbing ink layer of the ink Jet decal paper. That layer can damage Alsp and laser printers.
Also some printing service shops might be leery of feeding decal paper through their printers in a fear it will jam the printer.
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I use Alps printer for my decals (it uses waxy ink and uses laser decal paper), but I have dabbled with ink jets. The spots look like the black ink pulls away from those areas. I have seen this whey using photo paper on ink jets and wrong quality setting (too much ink is sprayed out from the nozzles).
What brand of decal paper are you using and is it designed specifically for ink jet printers? That paper has a special ink absorbing layer which should prevent this from occurring. If you using decal paper designed for ink jets, try other quality setting, and maybe different brand of paper. Since you have the paper, try printing using lower quality settings (which will use less ink).
As for true black, the last HP ink jet (DeskJet 500C) I owned which was incapable of printing true black was over 25 years ago. It could only hold one cartridge at a time: either black (K) or color (CYM) cartridge. With color images it produced black using CYM inks which resulted in muddy dark brown black. All HP ink jet printers I know of in the last 20 years always use all CYMK color inks (K is the true black).
There are also multiple companies which can custom print decals for you. But unless you can provide vector-based artwork (like what Corel Draw, Adobe Illustrator, or Inkscape can), if they have to design the artwork, it will get expensive.
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obvious
in The Off-Topic Lounge
Posted · Edited by peteski
We're all doomed!
Humanity will destroy the planet, thus ourselves. At least I will not live long enough to witness that myself. Time to colonize other planets and spread the seeds of destruction beyond our world.
Not like we aren't ready polluting the hell out of our planet. Millions and millions of IC cars/trucks constantly spewing pollutants into the atmosphere, the oil refineries creating more pollution, etc., etc.