peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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8 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:
Maybe, then, that's where I am confused. Once I resize/resample them to 1024 (long side), when I save them, I click on options, and can slide the quality (I assume) from 100, down. I slide it until it's just below 100k, which could be anywhere. Usually, it's around 80-85, on their scale. I just assumed it was DPI, for printing, but, maybe it's just a meter of quality--or compression. I never worried about what it actually is, because I never thought I might have to try to explain it!
Yes, the dpi value stored in the image file is just a reference value for programs which open the file to tell them in what side to display or print them. Yes, it is mainly used for printing. I'm a bit puzzler that you mention startign from 100, but then you mention 100k (as in 100,000?).
If you're curious, you could check yourself if that slider is for changing the dpi value. Resize your image to 1024 pixels across and select around 300dpi, then save it as a file called test300.jpg. Then without exiting the program re-save the same file but that time select around 72dpi, and save it as test72.jpg. If you list properties of both files the size of both should be the same or close.
But it could also be for the compression setting. My graphic program allows for setting independent values for both, dpi and compression. But in my graphic editor the compression value is in a range of 0 (no compression) to 100 (highest compression which would result in smallest file size).
Anyway, if you are not really interested in all those details, forget about it.
I only chimed in because what you mentioned didn't make sense to me.
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55 minutes ago, Exotics_Builder said:
Well, it may be as stated. But, I'm looking at a photo of an LS with a similar "bauble" and it looks more like the accumulator/dryer can for the A/C system
Yes, that is what you stated but the question was not about that big silver thing but the smaller cylindrical black item (with ribbed conical top) behind and to the right of the accumulator. If you look at the initial post that part is circled (although the red circling line is very thin and hard to see).
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My vision has deteriorated over the last few years. Solution: strong illumination of my work area glasses and a headband magnifier (Optivisor with a #7 lens plate). For *REALLY* small tasks I have a stereo microscope.
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5 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Today's irk: someone who has everything in the world to be truly thankful for...doesn't have to work, has a paid-for home in a beautiful area, paid for newish nice car from an excellent manufacturer that will probably go another 200,000 miles, a substantial amount of money in the bank, overall excellent health, several nice neighbors, and a loving, smart dog...but who elects to whine incessantly to me.
An ex-wife or girlfriend? Regardless - just ignore them - maybe they'll find someone else to whine to.
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Just like with any chopping tool, there is a chance on thicker cuts that the cut will not be perpendicular to the top/bottom surfaces of the part being cut.
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2 hours ago, dodgefever said:
I just use a calculator. 🤨
Yes, and a $20 digital caliper. It is made of stainless steel and accurate down to 0.001" (resolution 0.0005"). It does metric too. Got it over 20 years ago at Harbor Freight. I couldn't model without that vital tool.
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Never heard of Amerang until now.
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26 minutes ago, Mark W said:
Just to reaffirm what others have said.
Real spark plug wire is mostly 9mm or 3/8” or .375” all the same dimension.
.010”. = 1/4” easy to remember, so .015” = 3/8”. Perfect!
Another easy dimension to remember is 1mm “ = 1 inch in 1/25th scale.
1/25 of 9mm = .36 mm
The original question was for 1:24 scale (there are lots of 1:24 models out there, probably more than 1:25 scale), but for our purposes (ignition wire diameter), this is close enough.
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3 hours ago, bobss396 said:
I have slowly realized that there are many 3D printed parts sellers who are not modelers. They merely sling parts for sale.
I thought that most designed their own parts.. wrong again. Some will give credit to the file's originator. I see many of the same parts from a variety of sellers. Some are nicely done, some are not.
One thing that irks me is distributors with too-small wire holes that are also too shallow. Try to carefully drill out them out and the part shatters.
There is also zero regard by some for attaching things like wheels and mufflers for example. For mufflers it would be convenient to be able to use a stock-size aluminum tube, or even plastic rod. Wheels are the same issue. I see hubs that are not concentric to the rest of the part.
That is so true on all counts.
There is no thought put into assembling or painting a 3D printed item. Like small model cars 1:160 scale where the entire model is printed as a single part. It is an awesome testament of a 3D printing capabilities, but how the heck do you paint the interior or install "windows"? And before you say it, I'm not a fan of "liquid windows' like Microscale Kristal Klear. Fortunately many designers are starting to realize this and are printing the body separate from chassis/interior/wheels.
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9 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:
I use a couple of different free photo editing programs. My favorite is FastStone Image Viewer. That's how I edit all my photos, posted here. I can crop them, resize them, and reduce the DPI. I resize to 1024 pixels, on the long side--in the case of portrait-oriented photos, I go 1024 pixels on the vertical. If necessary, I can reduce the DPI to 72, to keep the file size right about 100k. Irfanview is good, as well, but FastStone is a bit more versatile.
That makes no sense to me. The file size (the X-Y pixel dimensions) and the compression ratio are what determines the size of the file. DPI value just tells the program displaying them (or printing them) how to display or print them.
An image that is 1000x500 pixels in size defined as 300dpi image will display or print as 3.3" x 1.8" picture. If defined as 72dpi image it will display or print as 13.9" X 6.9" picture. The 72dpi picture will look worse because the same number of pixels are contained in the image file, but now printed or shown "magnified" or "zoomed". But the actual file size does not change depending on what the dpi setting is defined as.
If the file size of a 1024x768 photo changes depending on how you define its dpi then something makes no sense. I suspect that when you reduce the dpi the editing program resamples the number of pixels to be smaller. That is how my Corel Photo Paint works.
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3 hours ago, Zippi said:
I search locally and couldn't find what I liked so I found this wire on Amazon. I switched to this wire some time ago. This wire stays where you put it and its easy to work with.
Well to me those look way too thick. More like garden hoses than ignition wires. But we all have different standards we go by. All that counts is that you're happy with your model.
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Even standard Kynar insulated 30AWG wire wrapping wire is already oversize for 1:25 spark plug wires. The wire diameter itself is 0.010" but the total diameter with insulation, like Bob mentioned, is around 0.016-0.018". That is 0.016" X 25 = 0.4" diameter in 1:1 . Some modelers find that acceptable - I don't. You should be able to find a lot of 30AWG wire on eBay or amazon. I just looked on eBay and there is a wide range of colors available on 100' spools for about $12US each.
The silicon insulated wire you found has likely even thicker diameter insulation (I use similar wire for "real" electrical wiring).
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Yes, it is a 1:12 Imai kit. I built it several years ago. I replaced the plastic spokes in the front wheel with thin brass rod spokes.
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To me that black/white photo (and the logos on the door) looked like it was taken in the '60s in DDR (or GDR in English), but now I know it is a contemporary photo.
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36 minutes ago, Rob Hall said:
Probably cheaper to sell on FB and a much bigger audience...
Yes, cheaper but nowhere as large as the World Wide Web (everybody who is on the Internet - not just FaceBookers). I know, at this point it is a loosing battle.
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Who needs all the drama. I'm also not on any social media except for some old-school forums (like this one). I guess there is something that bugs me: more and more manufacturers only sell on FB - no websites. But that's a general irk as it doesn't just apply to hobby stuff.
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Nothing pisses me off. It's a hobby I chose to participate in and enjoy. If it was pissin' me off, I would just quit. Period! It's just a hobby guys!
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Nice score Dave! I do hope you keep it original as much as you can. I'm not big into resto-mod stuff. Only 6,000 miles? That is like new (well, except for things aged more than quarter of a century). Hopefully not too much rust. Will you have to repaint it? If yes, hopefuly there are reproduction graphics available.
I remember back in the '80s I build a model of this car (I think it was MPC), but I painted mine white instead of silver.
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Trevor, I don't think the forum ever had a capability to resize photos during upload (to make the file size smaller). You have to do that before you upload them.
Or if you mean that you want to display them smaller size, that feature is still available, but that doesn't make the file size smaller, just the way they are displayed in the browser viewing the thread.
Check this post. Is this what you want?
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That's pretty amazing stuff Lee! I did notice some small flaws on one of the tires. Hopefully it is easy to clean up.
I have three Aoshima 1:16 vintage bile series kits of very similar bikes from the same time period. Of course these are nowhere as well-detailed as your kit. I'm curious about the price of this kit (I'm not on FB).
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3 hours ago, Beans said:
1/35 aint too bad. It's when you get down to 1/76 or 1/87 for the HO train stuff that it gets sketchy.
Meh! You need to try 1:160 scale! Parts count is not too high (for most models) but they are very small. High magnification is required.
This one has custom printed decals, photoetched side mirrors and working lights. The antenna over the windshield is a piece of 0.002" wire.
There are many custom made parts in this one.
I also fully service N scale (1:160) locomotives. This just the loco (I disassembled the tender too). And yes, when I reassembled it there were no parts leftover.
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Actually more detailed info is now on their website:
https://www.spotlighthobbies.com/chrome-plating-service/
I also could have sworn that someone on this forum recently posted that they were not happy with the way the "plating" came out. but I can't find that thread. -
6 hours ago, Bill Anderson said:
I should have added in my original post..... I'm currently working on a Ford 427 Cobra, and this Ford GT is next in line.
Have to say, the kit components (i.e. many body shell parts, suspension and motor) are different from what I'm used to in the typical Revell/AMT/Monogram American car kits.
Relax Bill, I think you'll do just fine. And even if something goes wrong, it is only a toy car.
1 hour ago, Chris V said:Not in over my head, but I’m still working up the courage to start building the McLaren Can Am racers from Accurate Miniatures…
Funny that you mentioned that kit. I read all the horror stories and I actually bought one on eBay to see what the buzz is all about. I like a challenge!
I expected to have a hard time finding that kit since it has been out of production for some years, yet when I first looked on eBay there were several available and they didn't have outrageous prices. I chose a sealed example. I did open it and looked over the parts and instructions. It is a complex kit but the instructions seem pretty thorough with very helpful hints about handling more difficult assembly steps.
Rulers for model scales
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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No problem. Digital calipers have metric/imperial button on them to instantly show the measured dimension using both systems. Mine stays with the system I selected until I change it. As you mentioned, you can also keep switching between them without affecting the measurement. Basically it is a built-in unit conversion. Very handy. It is one of the most useful tools in my toolbox.