peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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2 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:
Call me the voice of dissension but my vote goes to LED. Their compactness enable more styling freedom, they provide excellent lighting performance and they should last the life of the car. No more idiots driving around with burnt lamps, no matter how cheap the replacement cost is. Sometimes progress is a good thing.
There is no denying that LED lighting (especially efficient white LEDs) have (mostly in a positive way) totally changed the world's lighting (they are now everywhere), they are not infallible. I see many examples of failing LED-based lights. Usually though it is not the LEDs themselves but their electronic power supplies. Most common failure mode is rapid flashing, but I have seen many traffic light fixtures where entire stings of individual LEDs in the lens are dark, and similar problem with car taillights.
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8 hours ago, Bills72sj said:
Nowadays expanding storage space for you PC is pretty cheap. Hosting sites are somewhat risky as they change their access rules and/or go out of business. There is also metadata hidden in the photo file that can put semi personal data at risk such as location.
Um, isn't that metadata (EXIF or similar) also present in photos uploaded to this site, so what's the difference? Anybody can extract it here or on Photobucket. If you are worried,it is up to you to disable storing that information on your end, when taking the photos.
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8 hours ago, Bills72sj said:
I like the direct file transfer for maximum resolution. I no longer downsize the file as today's digital bandwidth is much improved over the days of dial up.
It is true that the days of posting "modem safe" sized images are long gone, but it is not about the transfer rate, but about the hosting disk space. With the default size of photos from modern cameras getting out of control large, and hundreds of participating in *FREE* forums like this one, uploading all those large images, something will eventually have to give. Either become for-fee forums, or run out of image storage space. Why do you insist in maximum resolution when the image will just be viewed on a computer monitor? How much detail do you want to show, just because you can? Forum software displays photos in posts in a size to fit the browser window. How many people viewing your photo will actually expand it to view it in its full 24 Megapixel glory, especially since many view the forum on tiny smart phone screens? What a waste.
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7 hours ago, rossfox said:
I have not included a picture, as I cannot get the file to convert from pdf to one accepted here
Bitmap (a photo/picture) stored in a pdf format is a bit unusual as it's not a native format for bitmap. I'm curious how you ended up with that file.
A quick and dirty way to get that picture stored in a forum acceptable format would be to open the pdf on your computer then take a screen capture and save it in a JPG or PNG format.
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3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
I’m still posting the vast majority of my photos through a hosting site.
That way no storage space is used.
Steve
That certainly is a valid solution to the space utilization issue, but since the images are remote they might not be available in the future. Whenever possible I prefer hosting small images along with messages on the same forum site.
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5 hours ago, Swamp Dog said:
i understand what you are saying. 90% of my decals are off the internet that i send to him to re size. its not a big process for someone in the business, so for Perry's 1/43 decals scale them in 1/20 scale that's not a big process..Terry always tells you up front what it will cost with your choice of shipping..
Does he redraw the bitmap images you send into vector format so the decals look crisp (not pixelated with jagged edges)? Does he print them with white undercoat (so they can be applied over dark surfaces without affecting their color)?
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4 hours ago, Dave Van said:
I design decals but I have STS print them. Good folks.
Artwork design process is the largest cost in custom-made decals.
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7 hours ago, johnyrotten said:
I tend to speak in "layman's" terms, I'm not an expert nor would I claim that, btu makes it a bit easier, at least to me, to understand. I've had the "pleasure" of training more than a few "less bright individuals". Force of habit.
I'm far from an expert, but know enough to realize that BTUs (a unit of energy, specifically measuring the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit) have nothing to do with color temperature of light. Not sure how applying btu to light color makes you understand things better. But whatever . . . if you want to measure light color in btus, so be it. Make sure you have large enough furnace!
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What you seem to have Russell is a special UV LED flashlight. LEDs which emit long-wave UV light are readily available. They are mainly used for setting UV-cure resins, but they also have plenty of other uses.
Here is some info about UV LEDs https://www.broadcom.com/products/leds-and-displays/ultraviolet-leds
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Small clarification: light's color temperature is not expressed in btu (British Thermal Unit) but in K (degrees of Kelvin). I also find most of the new LED-based headlights blinding and annoying at night. And the sharp light cutoff is not all that handy. It works well on a perfectly smooth road but if the road has undulations it makes the headlights appear like they are flashing while going over the bumps (or blinding like high-beams when the oncoming car is traveling uphill).
And as John mentioned, many of the self-installed "upgrades" result in headlights which are totally out-of-specs, either not correctly illuminating the road, blinding oncoming drivers, or both.
The other annoyance is that it seems that more and more drivers drive with their high-beams on all the time.
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6 hours ago, Russell C said:
Ditto, but what I do instead is text the photo to my email address, open up the email and download the photo to my computer desktop, then crop out any extra background and fix the sometimes too-dark shadows using my simple Photo Preview program. But I also use that program to knock down the epic file sizes the iPhone generates. I set the measurement thing in inches and reduce the widths from 24 - 48 inches down to 4½ inches and the pixels-per-inch measurement thing to 150 ... which seems to put out photos in my posts that look clear enough for my old eyes.
Good do see that there are more conscientious members here besides me who do resample their huge-size photos to something more reasonable. While nowadays storage space is relatively inexpensive, it still costs money, and this forum is quite busy with hundreds of members uploading photos. The storage space will be filling up and then what likely will happen is some of the photos will be purged (making many threads and posts useless).
There really is no reason to upload huge photos which would be printed poster-size. There are different ways of describing size of a graphic file. I usually resample mine to about 1200 or less pixels across resulting in the file size of 200k bytes or less. Russel's description of what he does results in images (4.5" * 150dpi = 675) pixels across. these will probably be around 100k bytes in size. That is perfectly good for photos displayed in an online forum post. Some of the huge photos some upload to the forum take up 3 or 4 Mega bytes each. Way more than what is IMO reasonable for a forum photo.
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On 6/25/2025 at 4:58 AM, Chris V said:
perhaps the original topic starter @Joe Lange could edit the title of the first post, so people don't get the wrong impression?
Unfortunately posts older than few days are locked and cannto be edited. Only the moderators can edit those locked posts.
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4 hours ago, Redisetta said:
Bondo glazing putty has been around forever,and readily available in my area, not sure where you are but I don’t think it’s been discontinued
You might be thinking about the Bondo 1-part glazing putty which shrinks as it hardens (the solvent evaporates). "Catalyzed" is the key word. Catalyzed putty is a 2-part polyester putty which hardens by chemical reaction (not evaporation - no shrinkage).
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Yes, there is a rather lengthy thread about this subject, and if you start a new one, you'll get multiple "best" answers - just like what you see in that lengthy topic.
But your last question can be answered. Since you are looking for a hobby size compressor, you will never need more than a standard 120V 20A circuit. Even that is likely an overkill. A 15A circuit should be sufficient. if you needed a repair garage size large capacity compressor, that's when you need some higher amperage 240V circuit.
I gave my recommendation for best quiet compressor with a 2 gal. tank in the other threads - no need to repeat it here.
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2 hours ago, Swamp Dog said:
Terry Borchers at STS Scale Model Decals is not a man that will drain your bank account. i have had many Decals designed by him and he has always treated me right.
If he has to create the artwork from scratch or from a decal scan, that is a time-consuming process. Time is money. As I mentioned, whether something seems expensive or not depends on your hobby budget. I just mentioned that so someone doesn't get a sticker shock. I design and print decals for myself and few friends, so I have an idea of what's involved (especially if the decals need to be opaque or have white or metallic images).
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8 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:
The Sherline was built in Australia originally, but the rights were acquired and bought out by Joe Martin and production moved to the USA. The Sherlines are currently in production and able to take advantage of the market space now that the Unimats are no longer in production. The Sherline range is an excellent high quality package available for miniature machinists.
Absolutely no confusion about the Sheline - For the 3rd time I'm posting the link to Sherline history. It is all very clearly explained (assuming someone actually visits that webpage: http://www.sherline.com/about/sherline-history/
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12 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Yes, I do.
Since my question had 3 parts, your answer is ambiguous. Is it yes to the first question or to the second or 3rd question? Do the full-size lathe's self-centering chucks use same design as the Sherline/Unimat chucks?
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I replied to your question in the other thread.
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I don't know how to make the explanation even simpler.
説明をさらに簡単にする方法がわかりません。
Are you using a computer (Apple Mac or MS Windows) or one of the smart phone flavors (iPhone or Android)?
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2 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
But the means by which the lathe jaws on the Unimat and the Sherline are adjusted, among a few other things, appear to be absolutely identical.
I assume you are talking about self-centering chucks. I have no experience with full size lathes, so I'm wondering if maybe you know how self-centering chucks are designed in those machines? Maybe they use similar spiral jaw mechanism design?
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7 hours ago, Hotrodical customs said:
I would like to get information on how & where to get a subscription to the magazines ? A 1 year subscription.. if anyone has i formation on it I would greatly appreciate it.
Haven't you tried to just to to the Magazine's main webpage https://www.modelcarsmag.com/ (not this forum) and then click on the "subscribe" link on the red band?
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5 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
It's weathering and is supposed to look haphazard.
Well, not quite. There has to be some logic applied to where certain types of weathering is applied. Like oil leak streaks have to follow gravity and go down. Oil pools have to be placed in the depressions in the surface. When mud is flung from the tires across the body, it also has to follow a logical path. These are just few of many such examples. You need to think how the 1:1 weathering looks and apply it to your miniature. There is definitely some logical pattern to weathering. Best way to do this is to look at photos or the actual vehicles and try to copy those patterns. If you just apply truly random weathering it will look weird and unrealistic.
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Having custom decals designed and printed is not cheap, but then again, cost is relative to your budget.
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1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Austrian. The Unimat.
Sorry Bill, no, go to the link I provided.
Though the Sherline product name was taken from the first manufacturer in Australia, Ron Sher, the designer of the original lathe and accessory line was an Australian engineer named Harold Clisby. He went to electrical engineer Ron Sher for help in the motor application for the lathe. Mr. Clisby’s clever use of extruded shapes, as well as many of his other concepts, have been carried over into the Sherline lathes produced today.
In a photo from the cover of Overseas Trading magazine from March 1971, inventor Harold Clisby of Australia shows an early version of the Clisby lathe.
Nothing to do with Unimat, but maybe Mr. Harold Clisby's design was influenced by Unimat (since Unimat has been made by Emco since 1953, while Sheline was conceived in 1970).
Creating Decals
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
Thanks Davis, that was a rhetorical question as I design and print my own decals using Alps printer.