peteski
-
Posts
8,887 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by peteski
-
-
5 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
It's weathering and is supposed to look haphazard.
Well, not quite. There has to be some logic applied to where certain types of weathering is applied. Like oil leak streaks have to follow gravity and go down. Oil pools have to be placed in the depressions in the surface. When mud is flung from the tires across the body, it also has to follow a logical path. These are just few of many such examples. You need to think how the 1:1 weathering looks and apply it to your miniature. There is definitely some logical pattern to weathering. Best way to do this is to look at photos or the actual vehicles and try to copy those patterns. If you just apply truly random weathering it will look weird and unrealistic.
-
1
-
-
Having custom decals designed and printed is not cheap, but then again, cost is relative to your budget.
-
1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Austrian. The Unimat.
Sorry Bill, no, go to the link I provided.
Though the Sherline product name was taken from the first manufacturer in Australia, Ron Sher, the designer of the original lathe and accessory line was an Australian engineer named Harold Clisby. He went to electrical engineer Ron Sher for help in the motor application for the lathe. Mr. Clisby’s clever use of extruded shapes, as well as many of his other concepts, have been carried over into the Sherline lathes produced today.
In a photo from the cover of Overseas Trading magazine from March 1971, inventor Harold Clisby of Australia shows an early version of the Clisby lathe.
Nothing to do with Unimat, but maybe Mr. Harold Clisby's design was influenced by Unimat (since Unimat has been made by Emco since 1953, while Sheline was conceived in 1970).
-
Yes, Sherline makes really nice line of miniature machining products. I've own my lathe for about 30 years now. Later I also ended up with a mill.
Quoting their https://www.sherline.com/about/ page:
Sherline exists because of the strength and vision of Joe Martin. Born and raised in Rhode Island, acquaintances would notice that several decades of living on the West Coast never totally erased his New England accent. He was a self-taught entrepreneur who found his way to the business world by being a hobbyist who was never satisfied with the products available. Sherline was the perfect business for Joe. His love of machine tools is evident not only in his product line but also in his modern manufacturing facility. When Joe designed a new product he did it all. This included the CAD drawings needed for production, the method of manufacturing, and the design of the tooling if needed and then he wrote the instructions.
I recall reading somewhere that Joe's design was inspired by some Austrailan-made mini lathe. I just found that info (it seems to be hidden on the Sheline website). http://www.sherline.com/about/sherline-history/
-
1
-
-
Exactly! That is the same opinion I posted in the first reply in this thread. I also have to admit that Steve's emulation of the texture has some merit too), but trying to accurately emulate the actual paint wrinkling is not really feasible in 1:24 scale.
-
2 hours ago, Ulf said:
I just learnd that some baby powder in the paint give a suede texture, I have not tried yet.
Talcum powder is most likely the additive (flattening agent) in glossy paint which turns it semi-gloss, satin, and flat (depending on how the percentage added).
-
6 hours ago, Russell C said:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/scalesurvivors/
Yep, what I used to do is click on that link without logging into FB, and I was able scroll down quite a long way before the system froze and put out its "See more on FB" login box. But these days I can only scroll down three posts or less before it does that. When I get more work done on the 1960s era survivors I got off eBay, I should join that group and contribute there. It would give me the excuse to login every evening to see what's new.
Or just ditch that activity and don't join that vast Internet wasteland called FB. Plenty of good reading here, and FB is getting desperate to be able to track their users by not allowing non-members to even view its webpages.
-
2
-
-
7 hours ago, Lownslow said:
about the same but crepe is what tamiya is based on eventually im switching to Kapton tape because it has better adhesion and curve but does cost more
Interesting. I use Kapton tape (the transparent amber colored tape used in electronic industry) in my other hobby (model railroading), and while it is flexible and has a good adhesive it's not stretchy, so I'm not sure how well it will conform to the curvature of the tire's sidewall. The Washi-type tape (like Tamiya or I guess Crepe) is capable of stretching/compressing to conform to curved surfaces. I wonder if the Kapton tape you are mentioning is somehow different than the stuff I use.
-
Thanks for the info Frank. I've seen Washi tape (in craft stores) which is also similar to Tamiya tape, but Crepe masking tape is a new one on me.
-
Looks like you still have to center the mask by-eye. That is usually the trickiest part of this process.
Is that Tamiya tape? I didn't realize it was available that wide.
-
1 hour ago, BWDenver said:
I'm building Hasegawa's 250 Testa Rossa and am a bit stumped on replication of the wrinkle finish on the heads of some of the vintage Farrari engines.
Thanks in advance!
Bryan
Bryan,
If you think about it, the wrinkly paint texture of 1:1 paint in 1:24 scale will be so fine that it would not really be discernible. Maybe it would be worth trying to emulate if the model was 1:8 scale, but not in 1:24. That's my opinion.
Maybe some satin finish paint would work well enough, or many the Faux Fabric paints that Scale Motorsports offered would look convincing. Those have slight texture to their finish.
-
3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
I agree with everything you've said.
It's surprising how those metallic particles can show so pronounced in photographs, even with a paint designed to be used on 1/25th scale models with tiny metallic particles!
I have quite a number of models painted with MCW or Scale Finishes paints which to the naked eye, are absolutely beautiful, and discerning any individual metallic particles is all but impossible.But photograph them in the right light and a certain angle, and there's no missing them!
That is true that the direction of lighting makes a difference in how a metallic (or mica) paint will look. But as I mentioned, there are metallic powders with different size "grit" available for companies which custom mix paints (for model paints and for 1:1 cars, so the formulas can be tweaked to produce metallic paints with very fine metallic particles. If you ever looked at several cars (in a parking lot) on a sunny day you woudl likely even see the that the metallic paints on those cars have different size metallic particles.
Your example does demonstrate pretty well how by using different lighting angle the metallic paint will look different but even in the photo where the metallic particles are more visible, they do not look out of scale. MCW is one of the companies that uses smaller metallic particles for mode paints. But for example most (if not all) Testors One Coat metallic paints have IMO metallic particles which are too large (out of scale) for model cars.
-
1
-
-
I do like the color, but also agree with others that the "glitter size" flakes are bit much for me. Actually quite a few model paints (especially a certain line of sprays for car models from Testors) have oversized flakes. This is often because the model paint formula is based on the 1:1 paint. But if you take those metallic flakes which look nice on a 1:1 car and apply them to a model which is 25 times smaller, you get the glitter paint effect. While this is not too objectionable when viewing the model in-person, that large flake size really pops out in the close-up photos. I'm my model club's contest photographer and I run into the oversized flakes on photos quit a bit.
There are however model paint manufacturers who use much finer metallic particles so the 1:25 scale models painted with their metallic paints look like accurately scaled miniatures.
But it's all a personal preference, so all it counts is that you like the look.
-
2
-
-
21 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:
Makes complete sense.
I've never done that, but I can see how the soap might help.
I'll have to give it a try next time.
Adding small amount of dishwasher detergent or alcohol to decrease water's surface tension is commonly used in the model railroading hobby when gluing track ballast so it doesn't bead up and soaks into the dry ballast. Model railroaders call it "wet water".
-
Primer (especially etching primer) is a special coating designed to improve paint coat's adhesion and also is very opaque to provide a neutral evenly colored surface for the paint. Sandable primers have more body to them to allow some light sanding for smoothing out any small uneven spots. Actually primers are usually nowhere as "flat" as many flat paints. They often produce an eggshell (sort of satin) type of surface. If you really want to know more details see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primer_(paint)
Flat paint is any glossy paint with flattenign agent added to it to make it not glossy.
-
1
-
-
22 hours ago, Brizio said:
This morning I added some photo on the F6F post but after clicking "Submit Reply" , a message came out saying that the page I/m looking for does not exist. I try few time later, still nothing.
This is a different and known issue too.
See the following post in that thread and also replies from Dave Ambrose. It explains the seemingly strange problem.
-
1
-
-
12 hours ago, stitchdup said:
on this side of the pond trimmers are for beards, i had wild visions in my head of why it would need an engine, lol
Around my area (in Northeast USA) the ones for grass are called weed-wackers.
As for gasoline (um, petrol) powered trimmers, those are for really bushy out of control beards.
-
1
-
1
-
-
I'm glad to know I'm not alone in my preference of the original style nose. But since the pseudo-fastback body style was brought up, to me that also ruined the Fiero's look even more. Yes, from the plan view it looks pretty slick, but once you realize that those windows are fake and there is no rear window, that really spoils it for me.
Yet, I like the '70s Corvettes with the "flying buttresses". Those were well done.
Recent issue of Collectible Automobile had a good size article about the Fiero. As with most articles in that magazine it was an interesting read.
-
I'm probably in the minority but I much prefer the Fiero's original nose. It fit the car better than the rounded nose.
-
4
-
-
I have not uses embossing powder but I suspect that the problem is that the glue you are using is too thick (viscous) and too dry for the embossing powder to adhere. At least failed attempts are easy to clean up (unlike stripping paint). Maybe try diluting the glue with some water to make it thinner, then sprinkle the powder over that. But do not make it too runny.
-
6 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:
I think the OP was asking about the best drills to use in a pin vice.
Hmm, I guess there are pin vises and there are pin vises. Most of the ones I own have exchangeable chucks (total of 4 size ranges), which gives the vise a capacity of 0 to 1/8" (so the PC Board drills can be chucked in mine. For many precision drilling small holes in plastic I often hold the 1/8" shaft of a PC board drill directly in my fingers. That gives me much better control of drilling.
BTW, I realize that both vice and vise are correct words for describing that tool, but to me "vice" seems more awkward, as my brain associates it with its other meanings, while I believe "vise" only has one meaning. I also realize that in the original English (British) language, "vice" is generally used to describe that tool. Oh well, I speak American English.
4 hours ago, bobss396 said:Then my trusty Huot number drill set, #1 to #60. I have to replace some missing drills.
You have that index, but not this one?
-
On 6/15/2025 at 7:00 AM, TonyK said:
Not in any hurry to get it but I wonder how the projected delivery date is calculated.
Probably the same way the package routing between facilities is determined: often seems random and inefficient to an average human.
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, Brian Austin said:
Oddly enough Google wasn't helping me come up with specific examples.
I guess I missed the fad. Might have been more popular in other parts of the country. No big loss.
Only somewhat related things I've seen around here (Northeast USA) was some nicely restored milk trucks painted for some dairy companies, and then there was official Wienermobile.
-
4 hours ago, Brian Austin said:
IIRC there was a fad of painting one's car in corporate logos, such as McDonald's. Big ugly wheels complete the look.
Fad? I never knew that (or seen many such privately owned cars). When was that? I guess the big wheel statement is a general statement because this particular car seems to have more or less normal size wheels.
model cars mag subscription?
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Haven't you tried to just to to the Magazine's main webpage https://www.modelcarsmag.com/ (not this forum) and then click on the "subscribe" link on the red band?