peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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6 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:
Found the thread whilst idly scrolling the forum as you do Pete.
Hope that answers your question Pete.
Yes, it answered my question - thanks. It just seemed odd the way you phrased your message. It was as if someone else brought this thread from the grave and you were surprised that the old thread was revived. At leas that is how I interpreted it. Yet, you were the erson who brought it back.
And FYI, I never randomly scroll through the messages here.
I have very specific and deliberate method of viewing the forum. I look separately into only sections which interest me (I skip some sections altogether). I have the forums sorted by the newest threads on top. In each section I only look at new messages (since my last visit), But again, not all new messages. If there is an active thread which I looked into earlier but which doesn't interest me, I don't even bother to open it. When done looking through all the new messages in threads which interest me, I just mark that entire forum section as read, so I'll have a baseline next time I visit.
I never scroll thru the forum sections to look at any older threads. I only look for older threads when I search for a specific info which I hope to find in the message archive.
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3 hours ago, Falcon Ranchero said:
They didn’t ask which side of the tire was to be shown, and my dad just assumed since he had inquired about some different white letter tires there before settling on these ones and so you’d think they’d know that of course he’d want the white letters facing out. So now he’s gotta go through all that again to get the tires facing out the right way. Bummed out cause I was totally hoping to see some sporty tires on the truck. Oh well not today.
NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING, especially with the low-IQ "certified technicians" servicing your car.
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8 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:
This is a very old thread !
Cranky is at least 12 years older now and seems to have disappeared into the ether. Not aware of any recent MCM forum activity.
So why did *YOU* fish it out of the archive? The post before yours was 12 years ago!
BTW, checking Dr Cranky's profile, he last visited October 22, 2016.
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12 hours ago, Falcon Ranchero said:
Couldn't seem to find if this was a real thread already, so here it is now. What are your Favourite Rims?
Mine are the stock 1966 Charger Rims
Do they make these rims in model 1/25 scale?
Were those actual wheels or just hubcaps (wheel covers over steely wheels)?
9 hours ago, stavanzer said:I've got Two. The first is for any American Hotrod. The Second is for Tuners, or Hot Hatches.
1. Centerlines, Auto Drag.
Yes, those Centerlines look really good. Back in the day I had them on my '76 Camaro.
I also want to mention that I strongly dislike any black colored wheels. With the black tires that combo looks too drab to me. Wheels need some contrast from the tire.
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Sounds like it power washed it!
That's not cool.
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Well then I guess the admins have to intervene here. They can do all sorts of "magic".
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Interesting. I would thin that Revell uses the the typical (easy to remove) vacuum metalizing method to "chrome" their plastic parts.
When you were sanding the metallic layer off was there a noticeably thick layer of metal or the metalization came off fairly easily?
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49 minutes ago, Musclecars said:
I too use LA Awesome but it will not take the chrome off in some kits,the re-release of the Stacy David Hiboy for example. I let some parts sit for a couple days and nothing so I ended up doing a light sanding to remove it
While the "chrome" most model companies use to make plastic look like chrome is actually very thin layer of aluminum over high gloss undercoat. Aluminum is not a very robust metal so it can be easily removed using Lye-based liquids (like LA Awesome) and some even use chlorine bleach.
But some manufacturers use electroplating method to deposit thicker layer of another metal over the plastic. Those are basically impervious to most chemicals. Trumpeter is one of those companies which uses this method. What company makes the Stacy David Hiboy?
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What specific kind/brand of foil are you using? "Slick surface" is sort of strange statement. Slick might mean waxed (not just glossy paint).
Foils used to represent chrome trim on models all have pressure sensitive adhesive (like any other sticker). In my experience stickers adhere best to glossy surfaces.
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Standard "gold chrome" used on plastic kits is the regular (vacuum metalized) layer of (silver) aluminum sprayed with transparent yellow/orange clear top coat to make the silver look gold. If you try stripping just that top clear layer you will also damage the delicate silver layer under it. As I see it, the only way to de-gold is to fully strip the parts and re-coat them with a silver color finish of your choice.
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Thanks for the explanation, but to me in order for the "solder" to run like a liquid along the kit's parts indicates that the "solder's" melting temperature has to be quite bit lower than the kit's parts themselves. If l liquid metal actual wets another metal, there is a great amount of heat transfer going on between them (for the wetting to occur). I guess looking at the "big picture" there really is no point trying to get into the technical details. Looks like that technique works and I learned something new.
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As you mentioned, many metallic paints (made specifically for models, automotive touch-up or just general purpose) have metallic particles too large to look in-scale on a model. Testors line of automotive colors hobby paints is one of the examples of out-of-scale metallic paint. Models painted with those paints look like the were coated with glitter. This is not very noticeable when the model is viewed in-person, but it really shows in close-up photos.
Some hobby paint suppliers who blend their own paints (like CMW, Scale Finishes, Zero or Splash Paints) use fine metallic powders so their paints look in-scale on a model.
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45 minutes ago, Brizio said:
Recently I received some old transkit, and they have white metal parts. Few transkit have a rollcage, and I was wondering the same, if was possible to soldering insted to use CA glue. I cleaned up the parts, because the flashing.
But since these transkit are old, rare to find, I opted to laser weld all the rollcage parts. It works great and is pretty solid. I welded different material, even diecast. It could be tricky, but it is doable.
Good for you! I don't think many modelers have access to laser welders.
CA or epoxy work well, but the joint strengths is nowhere as good as welding.
6 hours ago, Matt Bacon said:Welcome to the club! First of all, you need to know that you don’t solder white metal kits like you’d solder electrical components or brass. You need “low temperature solder” (which is basically the same stuff as white metal itself). And instead of heating the parts you are soldering with the iron and touching the solder to the hot parts, you melt the low temperature solder on the iron and let it flow onto the cold parts you are joining and into the gap between them by capillary action. So you need to be able to hold the parts you are joining together as you want them to be when joined. Use clamps or tape, and do the bits that are exposed, then move the tape and do the other bits. The solder sets really fast.
You can probably source some old gaming figures or model soldiers to practice on if you want, but when I took the plunge with the white metal Finecast kits I have been building I just went ahead and did it, after watching a couple of videos online. Google “low temperature soldering” to find them.
Any questions, just ask…best,
M.
Matt the technique you describe sounds more like brazing than soldering.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing
Also, if the solder was the same stuff as the kit parts themselves, wouldn't that also start melting the kit parts?! I suspect the melting point of the solder is lower than the metal used for the kit. Don't you also need a soldering iron with adjustable temperature to keep it for getting too hot? -
30 minutes ago, Customs-r-us said:
Did that. Never had a response. My email has not changed.
I'll ask the obvious (since you didn't mention it): After you followed the password reset process (expecting an email in the email account tied to your forum account), did you check the SPAM folder for the password reset email?
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That is a coverage of Topher's business which in todays world is a quickly vanishing service.
But I do have to comment on whoever proofread the article. Gear made of acetone [sic]? Maybe they were thinking of "acetal" plastic? In either case, the gear in question appears to be made of Nylon, and even though Nylon is a durable plastic, it will eventually wear down (especially when it meshes with a metal worm). Maybe it was molded from inferior quality plastic, but it was not "acetone". When technical terms are used, someone with proper background should be proofreading it (yes, this type of problem shows up more and more often in printed media and spoken word). Sorry for the rant.
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Yes, just remove the "belt" material from that pulley, create a groove, and make your own belt. in 1:8 scale that will look more realistic than a 3D printed belt. I have done this on kits as small as 1:43 and IMO it improves look of the engine compartment. If I can do this in 1:43, you should be able to pull it off in 1:8.
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Tamiya Silver Plate is also metallic color with no apparent flakes. Also Tru-Color Aluminum is very smooth. Then there are various metallic shades from Alclad II. Those all supposed to represent bare metal surface (not a metallic paint with visible flakes).
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I'm surprised that someone recommends soldering white-metal kits. If the kit is actually made of what in U.S. is usually called white-metal (or Zamak), that alloy does not solder easily. If the metal in question is Pewter (tin-based alloy), then it can be soldered, but it would be quite difficult to do without melting the parts themselves. If there is some new building technique out there, I have not heard about it.
Tameo most likely uses some Peter alloy. I'm experienced in soldering (bot as a hobby and professionally) and I would not consider soldering Tameo kits.
Here is some reading material on Zamak: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zamak
And on Pewter: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pewter
I have soldered kits made using photo-etched brass parts, but that is something all together different.
Most modelers use either CA (superglue) or epoxy to build metal kits. My recommendation would be to forget soldering and use adhesives.
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23 hours ago, my66s55 said:
Tried it. It's not there yet.
LOL, I thought your reply meant that you still couldn't watch the video, and not that you tried the technique and it didn't live up to your expectation.
I guess if your worded your reply "Tried the technique. It's not there yet". I would have gotten the clue.
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4 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:
I think I figured it out: It's because the photos I edit are NEF format. When I convert them to jpeg, post-editing, it's an option for quality of the jpeg, related to the NEF file.
That makes total sense. Quality of the JPG file (its compression) affects the file size.
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Worked for me. The The embedded video plays for me in Firefox on a PC.
Here is a direct link https://youtu.be/MCbirH84sqE
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Clever!
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How about using Tamiya "smoke" acrylic paint?
Also companies which sell urethane resins also sell dyes for tinting resin. I have several dyes from Smooth-On.
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Yes, one of the admins (probably @Dave Ambrose ) should be able to help you out. They are busy but they should respond within few days.
If you know your user name, which part of the password reset was not "coming through"? The only thing the procedure requires is your email address and checks if you are nto a robot. Your login name is now also your email address (not the screen name). Is it possible that you no longer use the email address registered with the forum?
What Irked You Today?
in The Off-Topic Lounge
Posted
So much for La-Z-Boy having reputation as a excellent quality furniture company.