peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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That is one awesome looking Mini Cooper (and cute as hell too)! I drive a Scion xB (the 1st generation Toyota bB, aka. "the box"). It is a small car on American roads full of giant SUVs. Couple of years ago I was driving on a highway when I came upon a stock (unmodified) Mini Cooper like yours. It was so much smaller than my (already small) car. As I got closer I noticed a sticker on the rear window. It read "Yeah, it's got a HEMI". I never laughed so hard!
BTW, there seems to be a shark's mouth on the blue vehicle reflected in your Mini - what is that?
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Maybe another photetched fret (for different model Ford) would have the script close enough to what you're looking for. If the script is small, maybe a fret for a 1:43 scale model?
There is a seller on eBay selling hundreds of chrome stickers of car logos. Like the ones included with Tamiya kits. Maybe you'll find something appropriate there.
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Same type of a hinge you would use for doors which swing out from the body (which is what most modelers use when they open the doors on their models). Then glue the stationary part of the hinge (a tube) under the top of the nose, forward of the hood opening.
Not the best angle, but here is how I did it on my 1:43 Cobra model.
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Not being a tooling designer not sure how difficult and expensive it would be versus the PVC molds. The military kits seem to have pretty good results.
Don't see why there would be assembly problems as long as tolerances are accurate. But even if they were molded together, don't see were there would be much problem painting except having to do a bit of masking.
Not completely finished with these, but they're (wheels and tires) made out of matt board and card stock.
Comparing multi-piece cardboard tires made from several hand-assembled pieces of cardboard to 1-piece molded vinyl tires is like comparing apples to oranges.
I guess because vinyl (and rubber) are flexible (unlike polystyrene which is a hard plastic) it can be molded with complex tread pattern while using a fairly simple mold. At least that is what I gather reading this thread. But to get the same level of detail in a hard plastic tire would take a complex multi-part mold (which is much more expensive to make). There also are many tires out there molded out of resin with very high level of detail but those are molded in rubber molds which makes the process workable. Unfortunately this molding process doesn't work for high-volume production of plastic model kits.
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Fellas,
Here's an example of the "powdered donut" look on the AMT Firestone Supremes on the left front of the car...the build is from the mid 1980's. The Supremes from the eighties and earlier.
That stuff will probably come of using some Naphtha (lighter fluid) or 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. Just try not to get any of those solvents in contact with paint for more than few seconds.
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It won't work very well. It is a solvent-based rubber material which will shrink as it dries (hardens). Unless the mold is very thin, the drying process will be very long and the shrinkage will be very noticeable. RTV rubber mold material hardens by a chemical reaction (not solvent evaporation), so there is no appreciable shrinkage and it will set in thick layers.
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You're right. I'm not up on my bovines.
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You should be able to mix candy with opaque paint (either solid or metallic) with the results mentioned in the above posts, as long as both paints are the same chemistry (same brand/type/manufacturer). If not, you might get some unexpected changes in the paint.
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That is what made this one so easy for me. Those pulls were only used on AMC cars in that erase, as far as I know. I'm sure someone will correct me but that's the give away feature for me.
Exactly. I didn't feel like looking up the year and model but then the answer almost fell in my lap when I opened up the latest issue of Collectible Automobile magazine. There was an article about the AMC Ambassador (larger brother of the Matador). That gave me the approximate year. Amazing how similar the Ambassador and Matador look in the photos.
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I have that kit with no instructions and it looks like parts are missing. Having a copy of the instructions would be helpful. I did some Google searches but couldn't locate a scan of the instructions. I'm hoping someone here knows where I could find a copy or a scan of those instructions. I know it is not a car kit, but it does have 4 wheels and has a 2-mulepower engine.
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UPS stores (at least the ones around my area) are not part of UPS - they are their own entities. So whatever they did (packing-wise) it is their doing (not UPS). But since UPS now charges per volume (not weight) of a package, maybe the UPS store is in collusion with the UPS mothership to maximize their profit?
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That is an unusual (satin metallic) color. I wonder if adding bit of silver paint to the brass/gold paint would give the right look? That is if you airbrushing them of course. Do a spoon test before painting the wheels.
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If you really want an impressive model you can construct hinges which will work like the ones on the real car (where the front edge of the door swings to the inside of the fender, not like a typical die-cast or Hot-Wheels model where the door swings out from the fender. Just observe how the hinge of your 1:1 car is built and make a miniature version. You might have to thin the fender at the door opening to allow the door to swing in.
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From my experience heat accelerates both, drying and hardening (oxidizing) of the enamels. That is why I use the dehydrator to speed things up.
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Yes, ink-jet ink in consumer-grade printers is water-soluble. Water washes it away. Alps ink or laser printer toner do not have that problem - they are water-resistant.
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The P1800 is a really good looking car. Then there was the other "Saint" who drove a white Jag.
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Another vote for Future (Pledge Multi-surface ... blah blah, blah, whatever they call it now). Alclad also sells a water-base clear for their mirror-finish paints. It is white in a liquid state but dries clear. Either of these should not change the sheen of your metallic paint.
Those high-shine metallic paints have thin flat metallic particles with very shiny surface (like microscopic mirrors). When they are applied over glossy surface, the metallic particles lay down flat and align with each other as the paint dries, creating a large mirror-like surface. If a solvent-based clear coat is applied over those paints, the solvent partially softens the base layer - that messes up the alignment of the metal particles. When they are no longer in alignment, the mirror effect disappears and they look like any other metallic paint.
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The Pledge stuff (formerly known as Future) Is a water-based acrylic coating which should be pretty much safe to use over any type of lacquer or enamel. I agree with others that the problem was probably caused by the color coat still out-gassing under the layer of Pledge.
Drying painted parts in a food dehydrator for few days should fully cure enamel paints.
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BMF decal paper for laser printers has a glossy clear film. I have never encountered flat-finish decal paper for laser printers. But it might be possible that the ink jet paper has a different sheen as the clear film has an additional ink-absorbing coating which could have satin finish.
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Door handles look very familiar but I'm feeling too lazy to look up the specific year.
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I've done it but have little bit more complex method. First Bare Metal foil the emblem. Then put a large glob of white glue on top and let it harden completely. I then use some epoxy body filler to add a "handle" over the white glue, but not enough to cover the edge of the white glue(this is important later). Once this is hard I pull it off the model. The BMF should come off intact. I then fill the back side of the BMF with super glue and let that harden. Once hard I sand the back flat with a sanding stick. Then you put the whole thing in water. This will dissolve the white glue layer and separate the emblem from the body filler and just like that you have your emblem. Not really a project for the impatient but it works well.
That is basically how I do it, except I use plain aluminum foil.
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My go-to decal paper (I use it with Alps printer) is from Bare-Metal Foil (yes the BMF people). I use the laser paper version - have never tried the ink-jet version of the paper so I can't comment on that.
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With dehydrators you have control of the temperature and it is a pretty much dust-free enclosure. Leaving your car outside - not so much. I live in New England where we have cold and humidity - dehydrator comes in really handy. But I can see one being used in warm and dry climate too. It does speed up the paint drying time, but I also use it to accelerate hardening of urethane or epoxy resins, RTV and whatever else kicks over faster when heated.
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Czasem polak polakowi pomaga.
My uncle Martin's car
in WIP: All The Rest: Motorcycles, Aviation, Military, Sci-Fi, Figures
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I like it!