peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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The problem is that we cannot guarantee that your account in Photobucket or even Photobucket site itself will always be there. I lost bunch of photos when ImageShack decided to shut down their free photo accounts. I didn't actually lose them since I had local copy but all the posts I made to forums which included imageshack photos now show up as broken links. No, I cannot edit those posts to point them to another photo hosting site I now use.
That is why when I see something worth keeping on the Internet, I copy it to my PC (and of course I have couple of backups of my PC too).That way I'll have the info regardless whether the ModelCars forum or Photobucket are there or not.
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That is a great thread. The only possible problem I see is that since the very informative photos aren't hosted locally on this forum, in a year or a few there is a good chance that some or all of the photos might disappear. That will make that thread useless. I have seen this happen in threads on many forums. I would recommend to save all the photos and the text on your home computer for future reference.
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This car to me looks more like a custom than a factory-stock car. But I guess that is allowed here.
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Simple, yet pretty creative idea. Thanks Ray!
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I kept getting a hospital bill for an under payment of .25 cents on a $4,000 dollar bill and I just threw em in the trash every month,for about 4 months, then I got a REGISTERED letter from a collection agency for .25 cents. So I called the agency and asked what they got out of it and the guy told me we get to keep half of it! On the reverse side, J.C. Whitney send me a refund ck for.09 cents! Crazy world
Books have to be balanced you know!
As far as the teller in the first post of this thread not budging on a penny, unfortunately some people working in customer-facing professions are not the right people for the job. If she was a right person for the job, she would have gladly chip in a penny of her own money. Many places I shop at have a take-a-penny-leave-a-penny holder on the checkout counter. I often take and leave pennies there as needed. But I wouldn't expect to see one of those penny holders in a bank.
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As stated before, modern technology is destroying our simple quality of life.
That is also what they said after the industrial revolution started in the 19th Century. A similar sentiment is also in a Twilight Zone episode staring Buster Keaton https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Once_Upon_a_Time_(The_Twilight_Zone)https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Once_Upon_a_Time_(The_Twilight_Zone)
But after having mentioned that, I also feel that our lives are now way too hectic - we now have more info then ever at our fingertips (on the Internet) and we can instantly communicate with the world, but that somehow didn't make our lives easier, more relaxed, or uncomplicated - it made our lives more hectic.
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But are you looking for plain satin, flat,(or even glossy black paint, or some sort of black paint with metallic or sparkly component to it?
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Clearing browser's cookies, history, and any other downloaded browser contents also helps.
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Several years ago IPMS had a program to sent hobby kits and building supplies to the solders in Iraq. I ended up coordinating the effort for my model club and we sent several care packages to them. I'm pretty sure they did not end up in thrift stores. That program still exists http://www.ipmsusa.org/support_the_troops/index.shtml
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I've always found it odd that the term "master" anything is used when there is no qualifying standard. I believe some trades (maybe plumbing and carpentry?) have levels of competency that starts at apprentice, and works toward being a master. I'm a fabricator. I've heard others refer to me as a "Master Fabricator", which I found odd, since there's no standard of competency to rate fabricators. Time, itself, is not a good gauge. I know fabricators with well over 20 years experience that just aren't that good. Likewise, I've been building models for more than 50 years, and am not at the level of the guys you all have mentioned above. It would be interesting to have, maybe, an annual event to qualify model builders as "Master Modelers". I would think there would be a set of standards, and one would have to meet those standards for, maybe, 5 years running (to prove consistency) to be awarded the title. This would not be a contest- there could be any number of titles given to anyone who qualified. Just a thought.
Tom
That pretty much sums it up. My official title at work is "Master Engineer" but that really doesn't mean anything. It is just one pay-grade higher than "Senior Engineer".
But like Harry said, being a Master of your domain is definitely good thing.
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Does earning the TamiyaCon Master Modeler title count?
While the title was a very nice and unexpected surprise, the trip to Japan was awesome!
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I could quit smoking. But I'm not a quitter.
I was wondering when this would show up.
Sure, you're nor a quitter, but in the long run you might be a loser.
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Very nice additions (as usual). So with English Language signs and European-style trailer, does the diorama represent some location in UK? Or are there other countries in Europe where English language is used on signage?
The style of the warning signs looks American to me, but maybe it is an international standard. I live in US and until you added the forklift and the trailer, that diorama to me could have easily depicted shipping docks in USA. -
Both FedEx and UPS use USPS for the final part of the delivery for certain kinds of shipments. Service like FedEx SmartPost is one such example where FedEx and USPS are both involved in the shipping process. UPS does the same thing but I don't recall the name of that service. But just lat week I have received a package which had a UPS shipping label with both UPS and USPS tracking info on it.
UPDATE: I think that service is called UPS Mail Innovations
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Warning about masking tapes: some off-brands after couple of years turn brittle, the adhesive dries up and turns into powder. On other brands adhesive "melts" and starts oozing out. If you use masking tape in permanent applications (like seat belts or vinyl tops) at least use brand-name one (like 3M). They have better quality adhesive.
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I usually buy a 1 gal. can and using a funnel I pour the thinner into 1 qt. can. Then I use a turkey baster to dispense from the 1 qt. can into a smaller container for my current paint job. I use a whiskey glass because is it bottom-heavy, very stable. and easy to clean.
WARNING: Make sure that the turkey baster is either glass or a solvent-resistant polypropylene. Some basters I've seen are molded from clear polystyrene. Thinners such as acetone or lacquer thinner will attack and melt polystyrene. I prefer polypropylene as glass can easily shatter.
Polystyrene is usually crystal clear, hard, and has a somewhat metallic sound when tapped. Polypropylene is slightly milky or cloudy in appearance and it is not as hard. It also produces a duller sound when tapped.
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Looks great!
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All I can say is this belongs in a museum. How gorgeous...
It belongs on the road! It looks realistic enough to start the engine and take it for a drive!
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I have also never used any resin which doesn't have a 1:1 mix ratio. I buy the smallest possible size kits but I still wish that they made even smaller resin sets available for purchase because I do end up throwing some away. I use the "extend" gas blanket and keep it in cool place, but the moisture still gets in the resin.
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I use Bondic a lot for small parts and no mold release is required. It is advertised as a "glue" but it hardly sticks to anything.
That is the funny part - in commercials they use it to bond things together, but their website is http://notaglue.com/ and the FAQs on that site also mention that fact several times.
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Like you already found out, there is no standard display base design shared between manufacturers (or sometimes maybe even between different production runs from the same manufacturer)!
The only sure way to get the clear cover that fits your base would be to find another Hot Wheels model just like it which has the clear cover. If this particular run of the model did not include the clear cover then you just have to keep looking for a match. Or bite the bullet and just put the model in the case you bought. You could probably trim the model's base so it fits in the case you bought..
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Nice build and weathering.
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You can get frisket material that's essentially a sheet of masking film with a sticky back that comes on a removable backing. Illustrators use it for masking.
I've been using it to make masks (using a cutting tip in a compass) for painting nice clean round whitewalls on vintage piecrust slicks.
You may have to do some experimenting to find one that's compatible with whatever type of paint you're using though.
Frisket material (still on its backing) doesn't seem to be sturdy enough to be feed through one of those cutting machines.
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For foil-casting things like emblems or door handles I used 5-minute epoxy.
I don't see any viable alternatives for larger pieces. Other materials either shrink when drying, take forever to dry, or are too soft/flexible or fragile to be useful. 2-part resin is IMO the only option. It hardens by chemical reaction (not by evaporation of a solvent), it is very thin when liquid (allowing it to easily fill the mold) and hardens to a durable material.
1/25th scale Futurliner
in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Posted
It would cost a pretty penny to model that scene as a diorama!