jacoballardtattoo

Nice I'm ingested in this one.

Glad to read that you didn't loose everything. Sorry about the fire.

Hey I see on here where many people have source some great accessories through aftermarket sources but I can't find good places for this stuff can someone provide some good links for me? So far when I Google it I come to the same places with limited non kit selections and confusing ordering process. Please help. Thanks

I like where this is going. I'm working one right now myself. If you get a chance check out out there isn't much prayed yet but soon I will update. Look for 63 Baja.

Okay Bill I did some research and found that Chevy did use both styles on the solid rear axle trucks and SUVs. First I do want to thank you for calling me out on my post I hate being the one giving incorrect information and love when people correct me. (Please know I mean this sincerely is not a smart butt retort) So yes I was recreating to the solid axle but now know I could be very wrong. The best way to know is by the shape of the day bar. If the bar is shaped to fit around the pumpkin the links will go to the frame, if the bar is straight then the links will go to the axle. Looking at the pictures of the model I do believe I was wrong in this case, sorry Mike. Here area few pics I found though.

I am very impressed with the exhaust I tried to accomplish the same thing in my build but could not get the bends correct, mad respect to you. I went with the duel glad pack style instead. They are not completely accurate but I think they came out alright.

I thank you very much for this tid bit of info. I was not aware of this. I was always under the impression that the needle size effected the diameter of the spray. Based on the fact that you adjust the area of coverage by how close or far you are to the surface your painting what you said males a lot of sense.

How did you do the drums?

Looking at the pictures you did a nice job, however (I'm not wanting to be rude here) it is not accurate. You started that you are grafting Chevy suspension to a Mercury body (which is a Ford product) neither ran the sway bar this way. The way you ran yours is typically done when dealing with a multi link (2,3 or 4) coil spring system. On a leaf sprung system the party you have linked to the frame would link to the axle not the frame. What you did would perfect for a coil system but isn't correct for leaf. I did find this photo to show you what I mean and how the lift system would work. I do apologize if I'm coming off rude I spent 10 years of my life installing suspension. I do hope the picture can help is of a Chevrolet rear.

Dale that is a great deal and a great suggestion, I wish I would have found it before I got my outfit. With this set up you could get everything you need for under 300$ if you don't already have a compressor and have great quality at the same time. Sidney I'm still very new to airbrushing but personally I use av fine needle in my badger, I love it I can get super fine lines (when I'm lucky I'm still learning to control my trigger) and I can still cover a large enough area. In the cheapo I what is claimed to be done but is the same as a medium in the badger. I use it for covering large areas. This had been working well for me.

Jeff above is right that things will be easier while learning with better equipment, it's all a matter of what you can afford or want to spend. I totaled up my cost from ground zero with the cheap option at around 140$ give or take. Had I purchased my badger as well the figure would be more like 290$ if this a reasonable investment for your life then it's the better way to go, but if this type of expense is a little difficult the cheap option with the up graded o-rings and a good pressure regulator will work just fine.

In the world of off road trucks the sway bar, or anti roll bar is typically removed from the truck so as to gain greater wheel travel off road so if push comes to shove you may be able to simply omit it on your build and still be accurate for a full scale trick. A small bit of info that may or may not help you out here.

Not sure how much help I can be but feel free to fire any questions my way and I will try my best to help. Have you started a thread on it? I would love to see what you have done. I'm very interested in seeing this one do you have a thread started?

I can definitely understand this one, I started an MPC 67 GTO kit that I have side lined for the same reason my plans there when I finish this one is to chop hack and mix that kit with other things I have to make worth the time I already invested.

My next portion to tackle is the hood to give a after market fiberglass look and the close eye headlights. My plan is to drill out two wholes for the light buckets to drop in into the hood and mold them in. Let me know what you think.

Okay keys see if the pics will load Okay looks like they loaded. So I started to build a 60s baja and planned on more pics, but that didn't happen. Finally here they are and maybe the pics will prompt more responses. So I'm starting with a Revel 1960s bug kit I got from a family member. I think it'sa fairly old kit but not sure. It has some quality tooling fewer but apparent mold lines. I copied 3 of the four fenders so far and created duel exhaust for it so far. The exhaust kinda kicked me in the teeth for a bit but just got it down tonight. Here's to the hopes of a great baja when I'm done. please leave comments, suggestions or criticism. Thanks.

Most of the badger line of airbrushes are excellent! I love my badger and hardly ever use the cheap one, but at a price tag of 100$+ it's not a bad idea to start with something with a lower price tag. Again I have no doubt that anyone who goes cheap and loves airbrushing will find themselves getting a better one, however even going cheap you are looking at the 200$ range to do any real painting of you are starting at ground zero. If you start up and find you don't have, facilities, or just plain don't enjoy airbrushing you are now only out 2 bills. Going with the quality out the gate your looking at the same 2 bills for the brush itself. If you have the money to spend and are pretty certain you will enjoy it and stick with then yes the quality brush is a good purchase, if your starting from nothing and have a tight toy budget or think there isa chance your outfit will sit and collect more dust then use then start cheap and move up from there.

The drum brakes are period correct for the 60s type one beetle. They work pretty well off road if use only German parts and maintain them. I was quite happy with the stopping power on my 63 baja. I took that little bug places no CAR should ever go! I used mine to keep up with my buddies dodge ram 1500 on 3.5" rock crawling loft with 33" tires and we did the hard stuff did fine I just had to be smart and use a lot of stupid peddle. Lol I love this build, I trying the same thing right now only I'm starting with a stock 60s dub and no baja kit to bash. My fought though is the exhaust. Did you make your stinger or was it part of the baja kit? If you built your do you any tips for me?

Are you looking for the research or ways to improve the cheaper airbrush? So in the case of my harbor freight airbrush. Complaints: inconsistent spray and splattering. Fix: new O-rings for a better seal. You would need to replace them all with better slightly thicker ones. I can't really give you a cost on them I have had my assortment in the tool box from years of being a mechanic but I tell they were all found at either an auto pays store or ace hardware. The hard one is the splatter, the cheap airbrush has a lot of slop in the needle allowing it to move while your spraying. I happened to have the perfect O-ring in my box that I was able to place it on the needle shaft in the rear when I screw on the back piece it holds the needle from bouncing around line the inside of the tube the shaft rides in with a dry grafite lube so it will slide smoothly. It's all air pressure from there. Not site if this helps but I hope it does

Your project may be driving you batty but its coming out amazing! I'm familiar with the MAC kit, it is junk! I picked up the same kit as I love the GTO line, it was my second model since I was like 10 or 11 years old. This kit has made me want to scream and has been picked up and put back down tons of times due to me wanting to beat the poor craftsmanship of the kit but not have much patience with it. I love what your doing here granted your build is more Revell then MPC but it's nice to see someone improving the horrible MPC kit.

No pics just yet but I am hoping to find any links to similar builds. I will get pics and descriptions of my build posted as soon as I can but what I'm doing and hoping someone else has done is taking a stock 60s dub and coping and building into a replica of my first car (63 baja) I would love to see what others have done for the fenders, cowl, cage (front rear and side), exhaust, and finally! Lol lifting the suspension for the bigger tires. I not asking for much only the world lol.

I am new to airbrushing myself I have a real nice badger 150 (I think) duel action that is a siphon feed that was a gift many years ago, I also have the cheap harbor freight option. Using them side by side I have found the badger to be way better to learn on add it has more control and a more consistent spray. Now with that being said, I did do some research on the cheapo option and have found that with proper adjustment and a little TLC I have been able to get rid of almost all the problems. If you don't have money to burn (like most of us) try the cheap options first see what you think of airbrushing before dropping the big bucks. Don't get to discourage about issues with the cheap one, never forget it's cheap starter the higher end options do work better. If I had not been given the badger I would not have spent the money on it yet it's better to invest less funds in a hobby you may not enjoy.

Impressive work

I'm complete list on bare metal foil, what is it?

Thanks for the recipe.