jacoballardtattoo

So I have this thought (probably not a good one) often times it's hard for me to do a good job masking things of on such a small scale, so here was my potentially worthless thought. Could I use something like vasoline painted in the spots I do not want paint as the mask then just washing the part off street the paint dries?

I used simple green for the first time as a paint stripper tonight and I gotta say I'm SOLD! I have used simple green fort years now in the garage, tattoo studio, even in medical offices I have worked in it's non toxic has no crazy fumes and gets the job done. I feel it's the safest striper you can use as far as health goes, I have even used it as a wound cleaner (only minor cuts and only in a pinch, it was a trick I learned in Afghanistan from the PA, and mind you I am not a doctor so I am not recommending it for others in a medical form)

I did not know simple green was good for this. I have never used simple green in this manner but feel that it would be the best option. Simple green is non toxic and as safe as a chemical can be health wise. It has been used in many medical facilities for years due to how safe it is. I use it regularly as a cleaning agent for all surfaces in my tattoo studio and while working as a mechanic for over ten years found it was great for wound care after a trip to the urgent care after a screwdriver accident, it sucked always be safe in anything you do. It was actually the physician who told me that most mechanic bays have simple green if you have a minor cut soak it in the simple green for a few minutes to help prevent infection. (Please note though with this I am not a doctor, I do not use simple green on the tattoos I do, and this was said to me by only one physician about 13 years ago.)

I like lowered look. Which engine did you decide to build?

Okay so when I first started building models in the late 80s early 90s I could expect good quality waterside decals in any kit I got. Flash forward to now I just picked the Hobby back up and 2 of the 3 kits I have come with a printed sheet that you cut out the image and glue it on (they are nicer than printer paper) is this common of most models now? Also with learning of this style of decal I'm interested in creating my own but have no clue how to tale my image and scale it down to an accurate size with standard programs (ie all I have really is word) does anyone know how I could do this? (For anyone that might be concerned of copyright infringement I am an artist and highly against me doing that, I don't want it done to me.)

Great point Tom, I have a lot of experience playing in the mud here in Arizona, in Louisiana, Missouri and Afghanistan, all of them have a little different color. Here in AZ you can find some 100 different shades just going from one city to the next.

I am new to making my writes but found (after already using wire that was a little to big) that your acreage cheep led light from any auto parts store is a great size and extremely flexible and work great!

Abe, if you decide to try and improve it please post your work here for me we can compare approach. I plan to do some serious mad scientist work on it and see what comes out of it.i think I did okay on the motor and I'm not done with it yet. I plan to work in a wiring harness put in some engine bay components... I am also working on new suspension up front maybe the steering box, shaft... I'm doing the lower cross member right now and new frame rails, I'm trying oven bake clay let's see if it will hold its size after baking and if it will adhere to the plastic I will post more pics when I have them.

My personal favorite is the 69 judge, so I don't run into this same problem can anyone suggest a good kit and place to get it from? I'm still extremely new to the hobby (on only my second build in over 20 years) and have the options of Walmart or Michaels for my kids at the moment. I leave in Arizona and the closest well known city to me is chandler.

Thank you for the responses, I'm going to chalk this one up to a bad purchase and try and have fun with coping out almost the full front end and seeing what I can pull off. I got the kit from Walmart about two weeks ago because I love the GTOs this is only my second build so in a way is a fun lesson. I thought it was a horrible kit when I opened it and this verifies that. Lok

It's it me or the kit? When I first started on this forum I got almost instant responses (meaning same day), this one only one response, it's this kit really that bad? (I truly don't think it's me in any way that pay is only a joke). I am really hoping to get some thoughts from others who have worked with this kit and what they did. I have begun attempting to fabricate a complete new front suspension for the kit and am hoping someone else has done the same.

Okay pics of where I'm at right now. I added some things to the motor and fire wall to distract from how poor the engine bay on this kit is.

One word, sexy!

I will admit I am by far not a Ford or mustang fan, but with that being said (when you have a vehicle pregame you have to give that precursor if your complementing a rival vehicle. Lol) your 1:1 is beautiful and well worthy of replicating. For someone doing there first build you are doing amazing! For someone who has built tons of kiss it would still be amazing, great job keep it up. Also kudos on shooting for the stars, I do the same, but not sure I can boast quite as much for my results just yet.

So I started this kit last week and I am wondering has anyone else built this one? I'm finding some slightly irritating aspects with it. It is fun and I'm doing some things with it that are making me proud but the molding leaves loads to be desired. I would love to know what others think and to see some pics of there builds. I am having one problem though that is the most nagging, the kit allows two options, stock or built. I opted for built which provides a blown power plant and open headers/side pipes, well I have found that the headers will not fit in the chassis without needing to modify the front suspension. Has anyone else experienced this? What was your solution? I'm considering attempting to custom build some lower A arms, hubs, steering linkage... but not sure considering it will be the first time I have done it and as far as materials goes I'm working with what came in the box basically. I welcome all responses, thank you in advance.

Mikael, I love the pic in saving that one, thanks and glad I could help.

It does not give the feel of rust. I love the rusted out models and will be doing some of my own. I have little hands on experience with them, but often I see where there is just to much rust. I love rat rods and have worked on a few real ones the thing I have seen is there is less rust and more flat old paint. Maybe try keeping the rust to the areas that normally rust (edges of the roof, fender wells, lower portion of the body) and focus more on mat paints in dark or faded colors. Not site if this helps or not, please let me know if it does.

Hi Jake, my name is Jake as well so I just had to respond. LOL. I'm still pretty new to the game myself (I'm on my second build) I would be happy to share my growth with you. I hope to get my current build in the "on the work bench" section in the next couple days if you want to check it out.

Nice tips thanks

Can you tell me how you did the dipstick? I just did one on the car in building right now and is no where near as nice as this. My method was to clip a small piece of solder and flatten the tip and bend it over. This is nice!

Thank you both, I will try both suggestions.

Excellent link thank you so much.

I started a new build a GTO and I want to paint the inside of my grill and rims with black highlights where it would be open on the real car but keep the chrome, chrome does anyone have a good trick for this?

I have to agree with the beautifully ugly statement. It's a nice idea in theory but not for me.