Harry Joy

I found a couple of dealer promos today while antiquing with my wife:

Dang! How did your cat get it in the jar?

When I got back into modeling about 15 years ago, I didn't try to buy a complete collection of paints the first day. I bought one kit, some sanding sticks, glue and clippers. I only bought the paints I needed for that particular model. My paint collection still grows pretty much on a kit-by-kit basis. Nowadays, I have a huge collection of tools and paints, but most were picked up one item at a time over the decade.

This may or may not apply here, I don't know. But when I still played with cans of Testors paint, they clogged up constantly. All it took to get them flowing again was to shake them real good, then spray them upside-down.

Ooops. Yes, it was an Olds. Losing my mind - I didn't have that in my original post, but edited it in in a fit of "alsos".

Sweet! Looking forward to building this one even more now. I returned to building cars just last fall/winter. This was my first one in also about 40 years, and also my first use of BMF... and also a Pontiac:

I have always loved that the Trans Am eagle has a mullet.

I was driving in Desoto County this afternoon, and got stuck behind a geezer in a black Mercedes. Right as I started to pass, I saw that the car had a personalized plate that read "KILLER2". That wormed around my brain-stem for a few seconds before I realize I'd blazed past Jerry Lee Lewis. I did get a look at the driver, and I am confident it was him. As soon as I realized who I'd passed, I tried to slow down to let him pass me, but traffic got thick. Oops. Would have been a great pic.

It has happened in mine. No biggie. I appreciate the different looks from similar builds. If it totally derailed my post, I don't figger I'd be too happy, but it hasn't happened yet, and I haven't seen it happen yet in another person's thread.

That would be great, if you want to build current Japanese and German cars. I have a hankering to build some modern American cars that are not necessarily high end performance or muscle cars.

Thanks!

Follow Snake's advice. In my limited experience, most of the bigger name vacu-form kit makers put out excellent products. Yes, many are garage level businesses, but they are usually true aficionados and often subject matter experts. Some of the best are made (pretty much on demand these days) by the legendary Bill Koster, who was the designer behind many of Monogram's classic airplane kits, especially the big bombers. New modelers are often scared of vac-kits, but they aren't much different from building a regular kit.

I believe this is a 63. When it pulled out in front of my, that's the date that popped into my head. When I got home and Googled, it seems my pea-brain was actually right. Besides this, I saw about 10 classics passing on the opposite of the interstate today. Sadly, I dare not test the ability of my car to jump a Jersey barrier. And right after, on my own side of the interstate, I got stuck in a parade of Harleys. About 300 of them. Literally. The '63 Corvair:

In any given sitting, I read between 10-20 threads. Usually one 15-20 minute visit a day, unless something I am really interested in is active. That is a small fraction of threads obviously, and I don't feel like I know more than a few people really well, so nothing is personal. As for your threads, I don't visit the the workbench forum because build threads don't interest me. Unless it is something I am currently building, and a Google search points me to it.

I am a big fan of Tamiya Super Thin cement, but I also use tons of CA glue. Once in a while, maybe every third kit, I'll find a use for Weldbond white glue. Incidentally, I never mentioned it in this thread, but I built my 1958 Belvedere entirely with extra-thick generic hobby shop CA. That is my primary glue, but I usually use Tamiya cements on engines and various other parts. This one, engine, glass, body, interior - everything was CA:

When I read the news a couple of days ago, it came as a real blast from the past. I spent half my life in records, but stopped listening to The Tragically Hip after Road Apples. Sort of figured they'd gone away ages ago. Sad news though.

All I can suggest is trying a non-automotive paint as your primer coat. Tamiya, Testors, what have you, just something not so hot. The auto paints go well with those.

Are you using only automotive paints?

I use Tamiya Fine primer and generally do not have issues with bleed through. It has happened, but only in cases where I applied primer, then realized I missed something needing sanding. When I sand the primer and the offending mark, that spot always seems to bleed through even subsequent applications of the primer. It took a bit, but I finally figured out that silver paints do a good job of sealing color parts. If I have to sand a part when I'm into the painting process already, I'll hit it with some Tamiya Silver Leaf spray. Seems to do the trick.

Or remove that section of tissue. Use an Xacto to get a clean cut next to the closest stringers, and apply a new piece of tissue and dope.

1965 Buick Skylark GS, on I-55 north near 3rd Street:

Oh, that there is probably the BIG variable. I rarely brush it on. Pretty much the only time I brush it is when, as I posted above, I am drenching a spot to receive an ancient decal. My customary uses are for dipping clear parts, in which my vehicle of application is a foam cup, and for overall clear coats, for which I airbrush the Future.

I have used Future on all of my models for a very long time. Up until about three years ago, I used Model Master Acrylics for almost 100% of my finishes. I would often clear coat a day or so after finishing the final coat, but sometimes the same day if I had time. Not only would I clear coat every model, I would dip all the clear parts. After the Future coat dried, which WOULD take a full day, I would apply decals. After decals were thoroughly dry, yep, another coat of clear. For a while I would finish roughly two kits a month. I have had zero, zilch, nada in the way of cracking. And I live in a humid environment. If I were building a really old kits, say 50 years, and I felt like using the 50 year old decals, I would positively drench the model in Future, and apply the decals into the wet pool of Future. The Future would always suck the decals right down like they were painted. Now that I am building cars, and for a couple of years prior to my "experiment" with cars, I primarily use lacquers. I still have never seen Future crack. I'm not saying it cannot happen. There is plenty of anecdotal evidence above to say it does. But I have been a heavy user for ages, and I have never seen it. So there's anecdotal evidence from the other side too.

I had to Google him, but after Christine he only got bit parts in B-movies and TV specials. Thanks sir.

I just looked at Model Roundup, and at the order screen you can choose between the teal and white plastic versions.