E St. Kruiser50

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HEY GUYS <img src="http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

<!--quoteo(post=202763:date=Aug 20 2009, 02:30 PM:name=Exotics_Builder)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Exotics_Builder @ Aug 20 2009, 02:30 PM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=202763"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec--><!--coloro:#000080--><span style="color:#000080"><!--/coloro--><b>Here <img src="style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

YUP. MINE CAME IN TODAY TO , ALONG WITH MY RE-ISSUED '62 BUICK ELECTRA. THERE SITTIN' THERE JUST WAITIN' FOR ME TO PICK THEM UP TOMORROW. CHRISTMAS HAS ARRIVED EEEEEEEEEEHAH - MAN I LOVE THIS HOBBY What other hobby is there where you can have this much fun ???

BOY YOU GOT THAT RIGHT . MINE CAME IN TODAY, AND TOMORROW I GET TO PICK IT UP ALONG WITH THE RE-ISSUED '62 BUICK - EEEEEEEEEEHAH - SANTA'S ARRIVED

The MPC '33 Willys re-issue is a good snap kit. Still on the shelves. Good kit, simple, and looks KOOOL when finished. I bought one and chopped it up for my '33 Victoria .

Evergreen's plastic is pretty soft for machining. I was a machinist/ toolmaker for many years in the plastics industry, so have worked with every conceiveable plastic and metal there is. TECHNICAL HELP; Everygreen's plastic is extruded, where as plastic kit parts are injected molded. Injected molded parts are much tougher and much more ridged - MUCH BETTER FOR MACHINING. If it were me, I'd find some kit plastic, cut it into the sizes you want and use a good glue that will "ATTACK" the plastic and fuse it together. DEFINATELY "NOT" SUPER GLUE. I've done this many times and the kit plastic gives far superior results. As for the Evergreen plastic, it's a wonderful product for other types of "Static" projects, such as scratch-building where machining isn't necessary. Hope this helps - dave

HEY CHARLZ I agree with everyone here. Next year I'll be buildin' 60 years YIKES , but still love it like I did when I first started. I'M A SLOW LEARNER and A LATE BLOOMER, so it took me that long for anybody to notice my stuff . I MADE TONS OF MISTAKES AT EVERYTHING I TRIED. I had guys help me and encourage me, just like people will do here for you. DON'T TAKE IT TOO SERIOUSLY, AS IT'S JUST A HOBBY I'm passionate about this hobby and love the enjoyment I get out of it, not to mention the friends I've made here, and the FUN at events and club functions I go to. STICK AROUND, HAVE FUN, MAKE SOME NEW FRIENDS, SHOW US YOUR STUFF, SHARE YOUR IDEA'S and mostly - HAVE FUN . dave

WELCOME SAM YOU FOUND A GREAT PLACE TO CALL HOME . I LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING SOME OF YOUR WORK ONCE YOU'RE BACK ON THE MEND. KEEP IN TOUCH AND GIVE FEEDBACK ON OUR BUILDS WHILE YOUR HEALING, AND KEEP US UP TO SPEED ON HOW YOUR DOING. DAVE

DON'T BE SO SENSITIVE HARRY, THE COMMENT WASN'T MEANT FOR YOU. SHEEEESH - TOO MANY REACTIVE PEOPLE HERE - THIS IS JUST PLASTIC AND WE'RE SUPPOSED TO BE HAVING FUN HERE .

HOW DID SOMETHING SO FUN TURN INTO THIS????? . EVERYONE HAS SOMETHING THAT "TURNS THEY CRANK OR BLOWS THEIR SKIRT UP" FOR SOME OF US, THIS DOES IT - INCLUDING FOR ME. DOESN'T MATTER WHY, I'M LIKE A LITTLE KID WAITIN FOR SANTA - TOO BAD WE CAN'T SHARE OUR EXCITEMENT HERE WITHOUT SOMEONE TURNING IT INTO AN ISSUE

GREAT ADVISE BILL DON'T FORGET TO HAVE HER DO SAMPLES FIRST ON SOME WHITE PLASTIC PICNIC SPOONS, SO SHE GETS SOME PRACTICE FIRST, AND GET'S THE COLOR SHE WANTS, BEFORE SHE TRYS IT ON HER MODEL.

Thanks RODNEY - WHAT A GUY

WOW COOL FIND MIKE I LIKE WHAT YOU'RE TALKIN' ABOUT DOIN'. YEAH, THAT'S ONE OF MY HOLY GRAILS TOO - SOMEDAY . I'll be watchin' ta see how she comes along - NICE START - dave

Yeah, we gotta keep our sense of humor - IT'S JUST PLASTIC . I've had problems in the past with paint attacking itself on a re-spray after it had dried a few days, hense the suggestion to strip. A re-paint over the existing problem would be much easier, once you get the problem fixed and prepped properly, but if it was me I'd re-shoot the whole car body with primer and then a re-paint - JUST ME. GOOD LUCK ON WHATEVER YOU DO - dave

<img src="http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> - dave

WELCOME TO MODELING Painting a model car is one of the most frustrating and difficult steps in this entire hobby. It'll take you the longest to learn, and challange you every step of the way. EVERYONE THAT POSTS HERE HAS BEEN THROUGH IT - ME TOO. But once you master it, you'll find it very rewarding and satisfying. Just settle yourself down and be assured that given some time and patience, you'll be turning out some quality paint jobs you can be proud of. I always recommend that newcomers start "DOING SAMPLES" of their painting, on white plastic picnic spoons. Made of styrene like your model kits. They're cheap, come in a big package, and don't hurt when you destroy one or throw one in the garbage This helps you get familiar with different types of primers and paints, and allows you to get a 'RYTHEM" in your painting style before tackling the "Real Thing", and maybe destroying something un-necessarily. Don't give up. You have years of learning to enjoy and plenty of people here to help you, and answer any questions you have. WELCOME TO THE FORUM. I HOPE YOU STICK AROUND AND BECOME PART OF OUR FAMILY .

Hi JJ This is a beautiful kit. Over the years several kit makers have released this kit from the same tooling. I don't know who really owns it. I believe Revell, Testors, and Protar all share that same tooling. My Protar 250 is identical to the Revell kit. Not sure about the Fujimi version 250. The old Airfix kit I believe is different. Have a lot of fun building it and sharing it with us. I haven't built mine yet, so I'll watch for upcoming progress, and see how yours turns out, and any problems you incure, and for tips anyone posts for you.

Brake fluid attacks it too - been there - done it too .

THIS IS THE WORST, AND MOST DANGEROUS TIP, I HAVE EVER READ ON THIS SITE. NEVER EVER PUNCH A HOLE IN AN AEROSOL CAN - NEVER NEVER. THAT CAN TURN AN OTHERWISE HARMLESS ITEM INTO A "HAND GHRENADE". NO APOLOGIES HERE GUY'S - THIS IS JUST NUTS There are kids here who read these posts and listen to our recommenation, AND THIS IS ABSOLUTELY THE WORST THING ANYONE COULD EVER RECOMMEND HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HARRY - THIS POST OF HIS SHOULD BE REMOVED - PERIOD.

Well, if it were me.......BRAKE FLUID TIME . Been there many times myself my friend . In the past, I just had to chalk it up to a learning experience and start over. I always shoot for perfection. I never attain it, but am closer to it if I don't settle for second best or a patch job. Everybody will notice it, probably won't say anything, but you know it's there, and it will haunt you 'till you do it right. It's the old "Pride of accomplishment thing" that makes us start over, and do it 'til it's right - dave

I'M JEALOUS . GOT 'UM ON ORDER - CAN'T WAIT.

First off, the primer I've mentioned in several posts finishes wonderfully. When your finishing the primer, this is where the "MAGIC" happens. This and proper body work are the keys to successful prepping, and to me the most important steps to a beautiful and eye-catching finish. I like to sand my primer when it's completely "Rock-hard" dry - about 3 days to a week. The weather and temp. makes a big difference. It "Feathers out" beautifully. Say 5 days to dry. Sanding the primer I use "wet or dry", usually dry is my preferance, but wet is OK too. I start at 600, and then 800, then, sometimes 1000, and finish off with 1200 - NEVER HIGHER, but that's just me. I sand the entire car when it's in the last coat of gray primer and the last coat of white primer. Imperfections in the color coat or clear coat I usually use wet 800 - 1200, then some 2000. Be careful with metalics though, because if you sand out a piece of dust or worse and then clear coat over it, you can get a "Halo" that stands out like a sore thumb where you sanded. As far as your color choices go, if it were me, I think you mentioned a blue pearl color, it would be: Gray primer to to seal. White primer White gloss Pearl blue Clear coat Polish Remember that these are just guidelines for you to start somewhere and develope your own techniques and system, so go ahead and vary some of these steps to see what works for you. You may want to go to finer grits of sandpaper, because that works better for you. IT'S ALL ABOUT CHOICE AND EXPERIMENTING - ISN'T THAT COOL . Good luck - dave

I haven't sanded any of my final finishes in ten years. Sanding seems to be a staple in most builders tools of finishing, and highly touted here by "PRO'S. NOT MINE. I've found that with a properly prepped primer base, and properly spraying the paint under "Ideal Conditions", sanding just doesn't need to be a consideration, unless there is a speck of dust that you just do a little "Area clean-up", but never the entire paint job, especially as a repeatable part of the process. That just never happens I simply spray everything within a 24 hour period, over a well-prepped primer base, wait 16 t0 24 hours and polish - SIMPLE. I learned this from guy's who paint 1 to 1 cars for a living. Simply put, in the auto finishing industry, sanding a color coat or clear is what you do when you've made a mistake of some kind. In the "real world", painters pride themselves on this way of prepping and painting, and employers expect it. You just fire up the "Monstrous polishing wheel", add some compound and go for it on the little bit of 'Orange Peel" that needs to be smoothed out. Painters don't get paid to paint cars the way many do here. NOT A CRITICISM of anyone here who may read this, or paint a different way - JUST A FACT OF LIFE to me!!! My 1 to 1 paint jobs I did in the past I did the same way with lacquers and urethanes. NEVER SANDED, JUST PAINTED, POLISHED AND WAXED. I haven't lost a lacquer paint job on a model in over ten years. I have won numerous awards for my builds and painting, and had my work in dozens of mags over the years, several cover shots, including a cover shot last month and a feature article ( NO SANDING ON THE URETHANE PEARL YELLOW PAINT EITHER ). Not bad for NO SANDING - EVER, and NEVER WILL . Remember, I don't consider my self a pro, like some may, I'm just a hobby guy. The REAL PRO'S in painting are the guys who do this on 1 to 1's for a living, that are friends that I talk with and I learn from, and will continue to learn from. If you want to learn REAL TECHNIQUES for painting - talk to a REAL PRO in your town. ( By the way - I'M THE GUY WHEN USING MY AIRBRUSH, SHOOTS AT 60 - 90 PSI. NEVER UNDER 60 PSI, SO BE CAREFULL WHAT YOU WHAT YOU BELIEVE WHEN I POST HERE . I DON'T PAINT LIKE ANYONE ELSE HERE ON THIS FORUM ).