jeffdeoranut

1-suggestions on how to strengthen chassis on peterbilt can do kit? 2-on twin steer 4 rear axle trucks are a) 2nd set of steering tires the wide tires as on the front steering axle? if so, is there an aftermarket source for them? b)2nd steering axle connected mechanically to front axle or is steering on 2nd axle done hydraulically? c) of the 4 rear axles are they 2 drive axles and 2 helper axles? is there an aftermarket source for drive axles and/or helper axles? 3-how does the sliding part work on a sliding rotator? thinking bout stretching can do kit and adding twin steering and 4rth rear axle...any suggestions welcome

stretch it, put a hemi, ford 9"", slicks n go racin!!

anybody know what spray paints will match these kits?

just wanted to take a minute to thank everyone here...this is by far the best model forum I belong to...many guys here have traded with me-NOT ONE PROBLEM-others have answered my inane questions and some have GIVEN ME PARTS-I always try to send something back..its especially helpful to me as I live in se Missouri....I don't even know another modeler...nearest hobby shop is a hobby lobby 60 miles away...so thanks to everyone

thanks again...unless I bite the bullet for the will do kit I think ill get 2 much less expensive kits and scratch build the bed/rotator...of course if I go that route it will have to be one of the twin steer, 6 total axle monsters..lol

thanks for the heads up! it is a new listing but I never would have found it cause silly me was searching for peterbilt wrecker on ebay and this listing didn't show up when I searched just a few minutes ago..now find me a dodge nascar truck kit...ive used many combinations of search words on ebay to no avail

assuming that I will be unable to locate a can do kit and am a fair scratchbuilder...if I wanted a kenworth 3 axle wrecker would I be better off starting with 2 regular tractor kits or with one regular kit and one kenworth 2 axle wrecker kit?

as the peterbilt can do kits are scarce I want to converet a dual axle kit. are there any other kits that have the rotator boom?(1/25 or 1/24)

its the revell lowrider kit...floor pan will b ok I think. in order to open the doors I will have to put a brass strip at the bottoim of body as its 1/16 with door cut out. im gonna try to stretch body and make it a 4 seater andto make homicide sliding doors and will probably rescribe new door lines leaving body material below the a pillar and below the side window trim. found a good how to on youtube re the sliding doors

wanting to open doors on a 5th gen elky but seems as if it will be challenging...any insight appreciated.

that's basically what I do...am considering getting software and was curious...yours look fantastic

what software did you use to make the graphics? those look great bty!!

google, youtube and this site are great sources for modellers...example if you want to buy turbos there are several aftermarket sources, if you want to scratchbuild them check out youtube. also read the post near the top of this forum about how to find answers already posted-following the steps there will take you where you want to go

that would kool...other than the slant 6 potvin blown one I posted I have made a slant 12 out of 2 deora slant 6s with 3 4 barrels

just looked thru all posts of this build...incredible!! ive modelled for 46 years and honestly thought I was a slightly above average builder...until I saw this. I now realize that I should only be allowed to play with plastic toy cars.

heres a "potvin"....im really digging the way yours will stick thru the hood

by far the worst kits ive built were 67 amt mustang and polar lights pety torino...as someone else said all mfg's have some lousy kits

was the trailer in the fireball 500 kit ever in other kits? anybody here do anything kool with this trailer?

instructions sent via email

ill try to get it to u today

I can scan and email you the instructions for the 85...just send me your email jeff

thanks guys...im gonna try both methods

I need to cast an emblem...I don't think aluminum foil will capture the details but if you use aluminum foil how do you keep it from distorting when you remove it? ive tried silly putty-even putting it in fridge first and its just not working...any help appreciated

question is about the 69 mr g mustang gasser...I have built a clearbodied blown one...thinking about building red version with the twin turbo set up ...according to my research the car was set up this way for a while...found pics of diecast with this set up but the plumbing for the twin turbos would b a nightmare...anybody here ever tackle this set up?

I see many models that have the drip rails replaced(either to repair after a top chop or improving molded ones)...my question is what shape/size of styrene do yall use? on several custom builds I have intentional removed drip rails and intentionally not bmfed window moldings(painting them body color-ive seen many real customs like this) but I get a lot of criticism on forums(not here) because of that...any thoughts on that? example is below...yes I know this build looks slab-sided which was the look I was going for...gto greenhouse transplanted onto 50 ford convertible...no drip rails or window moldings