Michael jones

Man, that looks amazing. Well done!

As these kits are taken from molds used for diecast cars, I am unsure if they will be changing the body shape at all. I know that the DDA Torana LJ has a rear spoiler a little too tall and the A9X is a little to low at the back as well (neither of these cars have been released yet as kits). I hope I am wrong! This Falcon looks cool to me anyway, and I have one coming to build.

Hi guys, As stated above, DDA has brought out some Ford Falcon kits. There are a few different versions of this kitset including stock and modded for the XY an XW Falcon. See online for more info. https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/blogs/from-the-desk-sms/first-look-at-the-new-1-24-xy-falcon-kit-from-dda

I print "regular" spoked wheels flat to the build plate on supports. That has worked great so far. I'm sure they can be printed at any angle with the correct amount of supports regardless but would take longer. For wire wheels like the Maserati birdcage wire wheels, I printed them vertical, 90 degrees to the build plate on supports. This is to stop the "wires" buckling during the print which did happen when I tried to print them flat. I learned from some other peoples experience on facebook. I'm still new to the 3d printing game, but these ways have worked well for me. Mike

I have been working on some flares and body kit items for this Starlet body by Andrey-Bezrodny. First time using blender. Working well. Work in progress.

My response was in regards to the refill bottle, which is the way to go. The pens are useless

My response was in regards to the refill bottle, which is the way to go. The pens are useless.

A year? you mean at least 5 years....

Awesome video mate, thanks so much for your help! I have designed some wheels/parts but never added thickness to a .obj car body file. Your video is very clear and easy to follow. Thanks! Mike

Your work is awesome. Can you explain the process in a bit more detail about adding thickness to the game models? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!

Spray it through an airbrush and it might come out better. SMS hyperchrome is still the champ...

Avoid Tamiya TS13, as there are so many people having trouble with it eating decals (on Facebook etc). Use MR Hobby Super Clear UV cut if you don't have an airbrush. Use 2k clear if you do have an airbrush. These are much safer on decals

What happened to the Mustang GT350R race car?

They will be real, but are they really cheap?

Mr surfacer 1500 black is brilliant. The great thing about it is it can be used as a flat black/ semi gloss black as well. So will save you doing extra coats with less paint used and cheaper.