Jhedir6

fair point.......

That tax thing is a scam...or at least I'm calling it a scam, cause I've bought from US vendors and shipped to Canada and had to pay that "state" tax. Also I've had the tax added in to the total on paypal and show up as separate charges on paypal, there doesnt seem to be a set standard for it.

I've ordered a bunch of kits from those guys this year. Like 5 of the Ford GT LM's and a McLaren 570 and a new AAR Cuda. All with free shipping (Canada). They've definitely got the best prices or very near. One issue I have is that they wrap the kit boxes in those cardboard sleeves that really arent very strong. I few of my kits have arrived with slightly squished boxes (no internal damages) but the boxes were definitely a bit flatter on a corner or two. It doesn't help that the Revell Germany boxes are a bit soft already. I just ordered mine. Thanks for the link I checked the other day and didn't find the kits up,

Nice build. The green and beige look great together, very classy. Well done mate.

They ship daily and Royal Mail is pretty quick. I generally just get the cheapest shipping as Canada Post has weird rules for tracking incoming items. Even though they'll have a tracking number and require a signature not all packages are trackable once inside CP's system, so dropping the extra $$ doesn't always guarantee you can follow your shipment. So now I just save the extra $$. And as it turns out, most of the time, the trackable items dont arrive any faster anyways. Before buying tho, I'd message Steve, show him a pic of your Shunko decals and have him check his stock cause they normally wouldn't open them to look so they'd have no idea if they were defective. No point in buying another set if the whole run is like that. Looking forward to your next update and waiting to see how you fix it before I jump back at mine.

Scott, Mine are the same unfortunately. Definitely something to do with either the printing or packaging too soon. Check Hiroboy again. They have multiple shipping options and the cheapest to Canada is like $5 CDN. The $56 one is by like DHL courier.

Nice, they must have just got theirs in. I was on Spotmodel the other day and it was still listed as incoming. Spotmodel ships pretty quick. I think the last time I ordered from them it was like 10-12 days to Canada.

I ordered mine before he had stock. So no idea if he'll get more, not sure how many sets Shunko was running. Amazingly it took like a week to get them from Hong Kong to Canada, normally its over two weeks, if you're lucky. Hiroboy might be your best bet, because they've not received their stock yet, so if its up on their site, the order is probably in transit to them and as soon as they arrive they'll post them up for ordering.

They were fine in the water, it was when they were on the body and I was removing the excess water from them. I didn't even get to the setting solution. The thin black lines that go along the rockers above where you mask and paint the black those pretty much fell apart coming off the decal paper. I got mine from Hobby Easy https://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/49ofjj8ptl3ayy09u1h8.html he's sold out on the '99 already. Hiroboy has them coming in soon, I'd guess by the end of the week or next week they should have them. The guy at Hobby Easy always gets the Shunko stuff in first. Hiroboy is good tho, I just ordered from them last night after they were closed and my order was processed and shipped out first thing this morning. https://www.hiroboy.com/124_Nissan_Skyline_R34_GTR_Pennzoil_1999_Decals_Tamiya--product--13640.html

Isopropyl Alcohol. Or rubbing alcohol. The stuff you get at the dollar store is like 70% you want the stronger 90%+ you can get at the drug stores. I get mine in the US at Target usually when I'm over the border cause no one in my small town carries it. Just put it in a large container with a lid and soak what you want to strip(not resin). Paint, chrome on plastic. I haven't tried it on a diecast. I have one bath of each of IPA and Super Clean I use to strip paints/chrome.

If it's resin do not use IPA, IPA will turn resin into soup. Or atleast that was my experience. If its a prepainted plastic kit, IPA works. I used it on one of the Foose predecorated kits and it striped it down to the bare plastic no problem. Super Clean wouldnt touch the clear on it hardly at all. If it's diecast, as stated above, dont use Super Clean, it makes the metal brittle. It'll take the paint off sure, but it eats at the metal, found that one out the hard way too.

Great start Scott. I love this car, well all Skylines. They're my favourite JDM car. I started this kit myself last year but my decals unfortunately fell apart during application. I was unable to find new ones so its been sitting in a box for a year now. Well luckily just recently Shunko released the '98 and '99 sets. My new decals just came in this week so I need to get back to mine. Check your decals, you might need to spray them with some decal bonder. Or keep an eye out for the Shunko ones just in case. I got mine from Hong Kong, but Hiroboy and Spotmodel have them listed as incoming stock. Looking forward to the next update.

I've got two painted and you can put all the parts on the body minus the two rear quarters cause the undersides of the buttress' need to be painted and cleared. The rest is easy enough to paint as a whole.

Nice start Mark. I love the silver. Need to get my second one finished up before I start in on numbers 3 and 4. Watch the sprue mounting spot on the bottom of the rear quarters, infront of the rear wheel. Those spots need to be 100% flush on assembly or you'll get bad fitment with the chassis pan. Also they kind of flare out towards the flat of the body as well so you could end up with a bare spot. Looking forward to the next update.

My guess would be they removed them after Le Mans but years before the restoration. The Holeman car would of had to have had some kind of storage somewhere as those were the regulations at the time for Le Mans. If you research the history of the car, likely at some point after '66 Le Mans they were removed as they weren't required anymore, ie Sebring or Daytona or where ever else it may have raced.

I love it Mark. You are a true Scale-Master. I just bought (pre-ordered) the reissue of the Tamiya Porsche 934 and I hope I can make it look close to what you do. I'll be using your Lola as a guide for getting that high level of detail. Thanks for sharing.

I'm not a huge fan of the new Toyota BMW Supra but I do think Tamiya has done a nice job on the kit. Seeing the underside looks pretty nice as well. Ok, no engine, but I'll still get a couple I'm sure. And I bet HD will do an engine TK and probably a Rocket Bunny/Pandem body kit at some point down the road. Now, I've very hopeful well get the R8 LMS GT3 very soon and hopefully the Porsches and BMW M8 early next year. It's nice to see at least one company making an effort to get some current race cars out to market.

but no motor, HD will likely do one tho

Yes email Kyoko, she's pretty quick to respond. kyoko@modelfactoryhiro.com

You're right, its not wax but a finish or top coat. I just used the wrong word, what I get for posting at 1am in the morning from work. Thanks for the replies tho, I picked up some to try out....now if I could just get some time to sit and actually get some build time in. I've got some clear parts I want to dip and see how they turn out. I'll also find something to airbrush too as as test. Hopefully this week, but my truck is going in for body work at the end of the week and I have some prep work to get done on it before Friday.....probably won't have time to build models this week either. But I appreciate the replies.

Looking good Tim. I really need to get back to mine and get it finished off. So many stalled projects......I'm such a bad modeler. I agree about the lack of full engine, but what's there is pretty nicely detailed and, it's all you can really see, even on the real race car through the back deck. Sad thing is the 1/12 is exactly the same. But for $300 it really should have a full engine. Also, I'm not a fan of the white metal. I gotta think that making the cockpit bulkhead and the motor top and the rollcage out of the same resin as the body and chassis has got to be cheaper. The wheels and brakes, ok I guess, but still think that resin is easier to work with. Getting that cage together and stay together was not fun.

Maybe we'll see a new JGTC car out of this.

What's the current look of the Future Clear everyone is using? They seem to change the label a couple times a year. The only version I can find so far in Canada is this. https://www.amazon.ca/Johnson-11182-27Oz-Pledge-Futureshine/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_121_t_0/140-5950643-9420803?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7RAFB58DMFDD7A2X8063 Now, its not $22 bucks like Amazon has it listed for, my local grocery store has it for like $7 right now. My question is, is this the right version for clearing? I've got another brand of floor wax I'm using but wanted to try this stuff out. Any pics or links to the current labeled correct product would be much appreciated. Thanks.

This is one of those subjects you can never win on. I've seen post of builds that were quite frankly, not very good, but the person receives a ton of praise. But as stated by others, you dont know that particular builders situation. Maybe they have a disability or are recovering from an injury or a stroke, and at the moment of posting that was the best they could do. Others seem to think that what they are posting is "fantastic", when it's not, and have no interest in improving their skills. And should you try to point something out, they lash out. These people I avoid. And it doesn't take long to figure out who they are. I remember several years back and young modeler posting here, and we knew he was young cause he stated it. His builds weren't very good, but you could see he was trying and each build got better. Some people would post huge praise (and rightfully so) and others would post constructive criticisms and tips on how to improve. This young builder seemed to understand that he wasn't being attacked but help and listened and absorbed those tips and encouragements and continued to improve....improve more than me and many others. Now, when I see his posts, I am amazed at how good he's become in not that many years. I wish the internet and forums like this and others were around when I was young as I had no teacher, just the few magazines I picked up now and then. Now, I've learned a lot from this forum myself, and know I'm much better than I use to be. As for me, I have not problem with criticisms, I actually ask for it in most if not all of my builds. If someone trashes me, I'm thick skinned enough to take. As a point in case, I did a 24hr build back in January. I posted pics here and everyone that replied was great. I posted the same pics on FB and again everyone was great, except one guy, who was a total jacka$$. Now I laughed it off. I knew my build wasn't perfect, as anyone who's done a 24hr build knows, there just isn't enough time, unless you're one of those .1% that just seem to make no mistakes. I was pretty happy with my results. But over all, I rarely see anyone "trash" someone else's builds just for the sake of doing it. In the end, it comes down to what your mother taught you " if you don't have something nice to say, don't say anything at all".

Hah......I have to travel to another country to get to my Hobby Lobby....