Brendan

Sorry to hear about the car. Most manufacturers build in a "shelf life" on parts so right when your warranty runs out, you end up paying a lot to get things fixed. Most of the time the part that needs fixing costs more to repair than the value of the car. That way they basically have you so you need to buy a newer car.

I used aluminum tape for making heat shields since it is quite a bit thicker than BMF. With it being thicker, it's excellent for exhaust shielding because you do want wrinkles in it and not for it to be smooth. I use BMF for more of the finer detail work since it's thinner and lays down better. Here's a picture of it on my Aston Martin on the tunnel.

It's been a while, but I've gotten a lot of work done. Since my little accident, I have worked on 6 of these cars for a customer. Five of the cars are the Daytona cars; one is a high downforce car. Didn't have any problems with these cars as I did with my own. Here's some pictures of what I have done. Still need to clearcoat over the decals, but it's been so hot here, I'm afraid it will dry too quickly. Just waiting for it to cool down. Next time you see these, they'll be in the underglass section. Thanks for following along. Daytona car (winner) High downforce

Working on a bunch of Toyota GTPs for a collector. And have quite a few more to go.

Too many to choose from. It's making my head hurt. So I chose this one...Ferrari 575 GT1 Le Mans.

Thanks for letting me know. I need to check the photoetch too as I ran into a problem when building the Peugeot. Some of the pieces were too small especially for the exhaust heat shield. Studio 27 always has some little mistake. Usually I don't notice it till the very end. Most of the problems I've run into is mainly mis-scaling the decals and photoetch. I'll go through my kit again and see if there are any other errors.

Thank you for reminding me. I also have to send him pictures of the Fellows Corvette that I did. He already has quite a few of my pictures up for his store front.

Scalefinishes let me know that they have the factory correct yellow for the Penske Porsches. He also has the red available, but you'd need to contact him to get it since it's not up on his site. I put an order through and I will be using those colors on my build. He has also many other colors available. I'm hoping to get the build started in a couple of weeks. Here's a link to his store http://stores.ebay.com/Scalefinishes

Andy, I saw your build. That's what got me going on building mine.

Thanks for everyone's comments. I was thinking the same thing when I was doing this car about cutting the flares out of the doors. But I found a picture of this car that had on the flares. So I just left it. I got this kit from a good friend. The windows were cracked. The decals were gone. The roof was cracked through and the driver figure was missing. But I was glad to get it! Wish Tamiya would release both the 935's in this scale. Now someone just needs to make a proper K3 and K4 and couple of the other versions and I'd be very happy.

Finished the kit today. The kit is a Tamiya 935-78...also known as Moby Dick. I did the MOMO Jost version, which is a replica of the factory team's car. Decals used were Raceworks (Strada Sports). Body was Tamiya's TS-49 airbrushed and Tamiya Acrylics. One of my favorite all-time versions of a 935. Feel free to comment.

I think he's looking for spray paint. Very nice job on the tractor and trailer. Another thing I was thinking about...Doesn't Model Masters have their metalizers in spray cans? I think they have a stainless steel. Just make sure to seal it.

Looks way better than the one I did. Very nice job on the paint. Love the yellow on Ferraris.

Very nicely done Nissan. Love the blue.

A decent paint would be Dupli-Color Chrome. You can find it at most automotive supply stores. But you will need a good automotive primer for it. Just make sure you sand the primer smooth or you'll have little bumps in the chrome. Also the paint takes an extremely long time for it to cure completely and not leave fingerprints. I used it for a chassis and I left it alone for well over a month. I hope this helps.

Jim, I know what you mean. It's almost the same part count as the Peugeot that I built. As for the paint, I was going to send some pictures to MCW to see if they could custom mix me some. I probably won't be starting it for several months. Let me know when you start yours.

I'm wasn't trying to discredit you. I was just showing that for what the car is, you don't really get much for what you pay. I thought Toyota had a Hybrid Sports car out that was supposed to be rather quick on acceleration, though I'm not real sure. Yes, I did see that episode. I thought that it was absolutely hilarious. Yes, I do agree with you on the 4-cylinder motors. I have a Suburu WRX Turbo. The cars weighs in over 3400 pounds and I'm getting close to 35- 40 miles to the gallon on long trips and produces 250+HP and 230 ft lb of torque. Most of the cars I've owned have been either 4-cylinder or 6-cylinder. I read somewhere in a racing magazine that the best engine combination was a 4-cylinder turbo. Some tuning company did a big study on the efficiency of motors and said that was the best combination for both horse power and torque for the amount of weight and fuel efficiency it could get.

Thanks for everyone's comments. I've done maybe 10 bikes and this is the first one in over two years. The last one I did was a 1/6 scale Harley for a contractor who was doing for work for me. Might have to do a couple more. They seem to build a lot easier than the car. Also the paint scheme seems to be easier to do than the last couple of paint jobs that I've done on cars.

Very nice work. I have a couple of those kits around somewhere. Might have to dig one out.

There are two major downsides with the Tessla Roadster. The starting point is actually more like $120,000. The batteries only last about 5 years. The replacement for the battery is close to $60,000. Plus they're already sold out of their production for the next two years (I believe). I know someone who works for the company. It's a really nice car, but you have to be richer than rich to afford it as well as afford the maintenance on it. For that price you can buy a nice house.

Just got the kit from MS Hobbies. The kit is nicely cast. Much better than the earlier kits they produced (in my opinion). Lots of white metal which I'm not a big fan of. Body detail seems to be good, but I'll have to check my references. The big area that I have issue with right off the bat is the interior which is very plain. This is an area that I wish they'd start adding more detail (a lot more work for me to do). Below are some pictures of what was in the red box. Will let you know when I get started on it.

Wanted to add one thing...when you go to shows and are looking for a kit, make sure you check the tires before buying. Sometimes the tires will actually melt into the plastic and ruin the kit.

Yes, they did change the formula but the tire is still made of vinyl. Vinyl has a tendency to shrink over time and that's what the main problem is... Sometimes they'll melt and shrivel up into a ball of oily mess. Or like the pictures I have below, they'll shrink on the rim and start to crack. I've had rims actually get crushed by the tire shrinking. Even with the newer kits, it will happen. One just has to be aware of this. The pictures below are of a tire that was on a kit no more than 5 years old. The rim is metal so that's the reason it hasn't been crushed yet. I'm squeezing the tire to show the crack a little better in the photograph.

Bluesman is correct about using Future as a barrier. Another thing you can do is use Testor's dull coat or semigloss spray paint to seal the tires. All this does is slow the off gassing down, but will not prevent it. It will happen no matter what. It's just the nature of the beast. I try to stay with either resin or real rubber tires on my kits. Another thing you need to make sure is that where you display your kits is that you're not putting it onto a base that has vinyl paint or latex paint as it will cause the tires to melt ever quicker.

Finished this up tonight. Been working on it for several months in between other projects while waiting for paint to dry. Decals were kind of a pain but are decent. Not a big fan of putting decals over pearled paint. It has a tendency to make the decal film show up quite a bit. Tamiya's Pearl White was used for the main body. Tamiya's Acrylics for the rest. Different shades of Alclad were used for the exhaust. I usually don't do bikes but a friend of mine said I had to have one done for the next NNL West. Feel free to comment.