MrBuick

It did need some sanding, but it probably only took 10 minutes. I just took some 80 grit and wrapped it around the wood and spun it, then smoothed it out a bit when it was near the correct size.

Unless you really just want metal, I've had really good luck (the one time I've had to use it) using a kebab stick and sanding/cutting it down to size. I used it because I had it in the kitchen and didn't want to go to the store hunting for a solution, and it's worked great. It's plenty strong enough, and since I made it fit with very little play in the axle housing, I'm not worried about it warping over time.

I use double sided tape or a small dab of Elmer's glue (easy to cleanup and doesn't bond too strong) to hold the part to a Popsicle stick...that works very well for me.

I had a 55 Chevy Truck where the metal axle was too short. I ended up making one out of a kebab stick (basically a really long toothpick). I had to sand it down a bit and cut the ends to fit, but it cost me nothing since I had it sitting around and it's held up fine.

I use a shop stool with a back rest. I needed a little extra height because my workbench is part of an old kitchen counter I re-allocated when I remodeled. I could go take a picture of it, but this is easier. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200483867_200483867?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Seats > Shop Seats %2B Stools&utm_campaign=Northern Tool&utm_content=20230&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=20230&gclid=COOApMeY-soCFQuGaQodqSQKAQ

I need some idea to detail these wheels for a 67 Corvette Roadster build. I've tried using a Sharpie pen on the 5 "slots" but it didn't cover the plating well. I am thinking maybe a black wash is the answer, but I've never used it and wanted some opinions before I try to find some. I've included a 1:1 photo for reference. Thanks in advance.

Yeah, I'd prefer the stock engine as well, or maybe even if they did a more period-correct fuel injection, but I guess it's not that bad. Anyway, the build is looking good so far, I love the detail work you've done.

There are a ton of ugly and crappy cars out there that have been made throughout history, but I'd have to say my least favorite that I've had any sort of experience with is the PT Cruiser. My girlfriend's parents bought her one brand new when she graduated high school, and that thing was the biggest piece of junk ever. Now, she may not have taken immaculate care of the thing, but she made sure regular maintenance got done and treated it as well as most people treat their daily drivers. Within 2 years, every piece of trim on the interior rattled and it'd been to the dealer 3 different times for recalls. Within another 2 years, the thing was spending more time at the mechanic than it was on the road. It never even made it past the 60k mile warranty period before the dealer basically told her they were tired of losing money on it and just pro-rated it out towards a new car. Every time I see one of those things I cringe and pity the owner.

I'm looking forward to seeing this completed...I've got the '49 Merc Woody queued up for my next build, and I've been looking at getting one of these as well. You asked about the engine...it looks to be a standard Ford Flathead V8 with a more modern fuel-injection setup on it...were there intake options or was that the only one that came with it, and is that the Round 2 Kit?

Looking good so far. I enjoyed this kit a lot...my only complaints were the exhaust being molded in to the chassis and the hood scoop seems to cause poor hood fitment pretty frequently. I've seen many more skilled builders than myself address those small issues with (seemingly) very little effort, but they threw me for a bit of a loop.

I've learned to prime everything myself...I prime not only the body, but every little piece (save for plated pieces). There are several reasons I've decided to do so, but the main ones are as oldcarfan said, it helps identify lines you may have missed or flaws you still need to address, and the other is because it makes the paint coat stick better (that's part of what Primer is designed to do). I'm getting better and better and paint, but I'm still new to the hobby and am far from great at it...I haven't even used my brand new airbrush yet. My first few builds I really struggled with the spray paint. I kept putting it on too thick or too wet, ESPECIALLY with color molded bodies. Part of it was I just needed to get a feel for it, as everything I'd ever spray painted in the past was large, metal, and the finish didn't need to be perfect, but another builder on YouTube recommended I try priming my builds, because it helps to keep the paint from running as easily, and also helps you to not have to use as many coats of the more expensive colored paint to get good coverage. It's worked very well for me, and I don't use a high-end primer. I usually get my primer from Oreilly Auto...I use Brite Touch because it's pretty inexpensive for a can and seems to work just as well as anything. Here's the way I've come to look at it; automotive manufactures are always trying to save pennies when manufacturing new cars, but they still use a primer coat at the factory when painting, so obviously it's very important to keeping the paint looking as good as it can long into the future.

It's been so long since I ordered, I'd actually forgotten until i saw this post. I ordered a set of tires probably 4 months ago and still haven't heard anything about them. I can't even remember if my card was charged or if they're waiting until shipment to charge. Too bad there's nobody in the family taking over the business. I've only had one other dealing with them in the past (before their retirement announcement), but it was a pleasant one and the parts were fantastic.

Flintstone has it, I ordered one a few month's ago and it's very nice...I haven't built it yet, but the body looks great as it sits. Someone on the forum is looking to get rid of one http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/108531-50-olds-fastback-resin-body-jimmy-flintstone/

Really like it. What kind of wood did you use for the bed material?

This is an awesome idea, and I love the work so far. I'll have to keep an eye on this build, as I'm getting a lot of good tips and ideas from you. BTW, those stacks look amazing!

Awesome tip, thanks! I've been using Silver Chrome Trim colored paint from Model Masters and haven't been overly pleased with the results...it looks better than leaving it untouched, but certainly doesn't hold up to scrutiny. I can't even tell where the valve cover was attached to the tree in your picture. I'll have to look for some Alclad.

Thanks for the tips guys. Espo, what effect does the light clear achieve...just helping to make the sidewalls look more realistic?

For me it's about experience...I'm pretty new to the hobby, and cruising these forums makes me want to gain the skill and confidence to build something even remotely as nice as some of the builds I've seen, but I guess I just feel like I need to get the basics down before I move to more advanced stuff. For instance, for the most part right now I build my kits box stock...I don't wire the motors or spend hours on the small details, and I don't have very many spare parts to kit bash from yet. I'm still trying to get a feel for the painting aspect. I do paint all my models, and I'm getting ready to buy my first airbrush and move away from rattle cans because once I figure out how to use it properly I think it'll help me greatly (I have a hard time not throwing paint on too thick with rattle cans). I currently don't clear any of them, though I'll be trying that on the build I'm working on now (55 Chevy Stepside) once I think I've mastered the color sanding and polishing.

Quick question...I found this great tutorial from Dr Cranky's Lab on youtube about weathering tires, but he didn't mention what grit paper works best for this, or if there are different grits depending on how weathered you want to make the tires appear. Can anyone elaborate on their preferences? Here is the video I'm speaking of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=az8GGzObtxA&list=PLFB4DF65CB083B434&index=12

Awesome, thanks guys, I'm gonna give it a try. I guess the worst thing that could happen is it doesn't come out well and I have to paint it.

I've got a few kits laying around that are molded in color. One of them is a '67 'vette roadster, and the body is molded in red. I am going to stick with red for the body color, and I've heard people claim they've been able to just polish the body and get good results without painting. Does anyone have any experience doing so, and if so, how did you accomplish it? Final results pics would be awesome!

Hey guys, I'm new to the forums as well as to the hobby (fairly new to the hobby, this is my 7th build). I'm getting ready to move away from the rattle-can and graduate to an airbrush, so this is probably my last build before I take that on. Pretty much everything is from the box...the front wheels are in the kit, I just added the 'torpedo caps' by modifying the spotlight bodies to fit the wheel.

Awesome build! I just ordered one of these to add to my build queue...it's gonna probably be my first attempt at a two tone paint job and may be the first kit that I airbrush (I'm currently in the middle of graduating from rattle-cans to airbrushing)...hopefully mine can come out looking a fraction as good as yours!

I know this is kind of an old thread, but hopefully OP is still around...I just got my 49 Wagon Kit and am ordering another Chopped Coupe with the plan on building a custom wagon. I have considered the chopped body, but before I order it I am wondering if the windows from the stock kit fit the chopped body, and if not, what works as a good solution to make your own. I'm a fairly experienced model builder but am just getting into customizing outside of what comes with the kits, so any help would be appreciated.