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Marc @ MPC Motorsports

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Everything posted by Marc @ MPC Motorsports

  1. This will be a fun one to watch, Bob. I'm restoring and restomodding more built models than cracking open unbuilts these days. To me, it's a lot like restoring a 1:1. You find a decent subject, hunt down replacements for missing or damaged parts, bodywork and paint, etc. Glad there are others like me that enjoy this part of the hobby. Marc
  2. Like most modelers, I have my share of backburner builds and I'll share a few. First up is a 1966 Ford Mustang fastback that is a clone of the 1:1 that Year One built about 5 years ago. I started with a nearly mint, unbuilt AMT annual that I paid upwards of $100 for back in 2004. I have GREAT intentions of finishing this one in 2009. The most challenging part of this build will be in the application of carbon fiber decal to the hood. I've done it a thousand times in my head!!! I will have to make templates using masking tape and apply it in multiple pieces. Next up is an MPC 1971 Plymouth Cuda with a modified AMT Challenger chassis and underhood detail, powered by a Gen 3 Hemi. It is a clone of the one XV Motorsports built and the 1:1 is in my current avatar. I also hope to complete this build in 2009. It was started in late 2007 and has sat ever since. I have others but these two are my most significant and most deserving of completion. Marc
  3. Scratchbuilding is building a part or a whole model from scratch, using plastic, wood, metal, etc. Simply modifying a kit part does not constitute scratchbuilding in my opinion, unless you are Juha Airio. Anyone that can convert a Johan 1975 Cutlass into a 1973 Pontiac Grand Am scratchbuilt it. Kitbashing is using parts from two or more kits to build one model. From the time I had my second model kit as a child, I started kitbashing and have been doing so ever since. Every model I have built as an adult features parts from at least 5 or 6 different kits. Every kit I purchase, regardless of its cost or collectibility, I consider a parts kit.
  4. Since I didn't rush to do a simple paint and assembly on the interior for my '74 Charger, the creative juices started flowing again and I'm going more full on custom Pro Touring with it. Lying in the abyss that my workbench has become was a custom rear seat from the AMT '57 Ford Fairlane. I laid it inside the Charger tub, then fired up the Dremel. After removing the rear seat and some minor trimming and filing, it fit like it was made for it. The car is still going to be curbside, but I'm going all out on the inside. As for colors, I'm thinking either multiple shades of black and grey or more of a Ferrari style with tan seats with black dash panel and rugs. Either scheme may get a splash of carbon fiber too. Just got to do some spoon testing to compliment the Inca Gold exterior. Enjoy!!!
  5. Nothing like an upcoming show to get motivated to finish a model. After a one year hiatus, I'm going to the MCMA Showdown in Irving, TX this Saturday. This Camaro was nearly finished back in October when I last posted progress. Tonight, it is almost complete. This last pic is my favorite!!! Enjoy!!! Marc @ MPC Motorsports
  6. Yes and yes! I always use most if not all of a can of TS-13 on a body, then I polish with 3600, 4000 and 6000 Micro Mesh and final polish with Wizards Finish Cut polish. Thanks for your comments! Marc
  7. Thanks, Chris. The power bulge on the hood will most likely end up flat black when it is finished. Marc
  8. I started this one late in 2008 and after seeing David T's beautiful 1971 Charger, I thought I would post some pics of mine. It is painted with Testors Inca Gold with Tamiya TS-13 clear. Spoilers are from the AMT 1971 Dodge Charger R/T. Wheels are Aoshima Kranze LXZ's with black spokes. I removed the bumper guards and drilled out the headlights for MV Lenses. This kit was a NASCAR racer before being converted back to street use. I will use a photoetch tuner-style gas cap where the NASCAR filler once was. All I lack to finish this build is to paint and assemble the interior. Marc
  9. Dave, I've been away from the forum lately. Too much work/life stuff in the way these days. I have to say, this is an awesome build and I'm flattered that a builder of your caliber gets inspiration from my pro touring builds. This Charger really has the "look" and I'm going to try the engine surround on a future build. Keep up the good work! Marc
  10. I HIGHLY recommend Pace Paint Booths. Bob Pace is a great guy and he builds an awesome paint booth. His use household air filters that are inexpensive and easy to find. Call him to order one and you'll probably have it within a week. Marc
  11. Sure, price matters. I hate to see the prices of new kits go up, but EVERYTHING these days costs more than it used to. I'm also glad that Revell is coming out with new releases and Round2 appears to be having some success with their business model. But models still are selling here in Tulsa, OK. Like mademan posted above, I typically purchase and build vintage kits, resin kits, or restore old built kits. With a kid in college, my hobby funds are limited, so I spend wisely but typically purchase what I want, within reason. After grokking the new Revell '68 Mustang Cobra Jet (a nice kit BTW), I decided to purchase the Missing Link resin '68 Mustang fastback transkit. I already have the AMT Shelby GT500 donor kit to go with it. Still cheaper than working on the real thing! I won a builder AMT '67 Camaro annual on Ebay and with new Modelhaus parts for it, I'm in for about $75 on this one. I don't smoke or drink alcohol, so styrene is my only vice. I rarely buy new kits unless they are for parts to upgrade a vintage kit. Even with the increases in paint prices, a couple of cans of Tamiya paint costs what a six pack and a pack of Camels does. I'm out of storage space for new kits, which also limits what and how many I can purchase. But if Tamiya were to start doing American muscle cars with the level of detail of the Enzo, AMG McLaren or the new Skyline and sell them for $50 MSRP.....hmmm. In closing, I realize that I'm in the minority here and that most modelers have been impacted by the economic conditions much more than myself. If I were to absorb a pay cut or, God forbid, lose my job, there would be drastic changes in my personal spending. I doubt I would be spending ANY money on the hobby and probably would liquidate part of my collection. But how many of us get more of a buzz by going out and purchasing every kit that comes down the pike rather than building something they already have? It's the "thrill of the hunt". I know I'm more productive at the bench when I'm in the "acquisition mode". And, how many of us have more kits than we'll ever build in our lifetime? Guilty!!! If a new kit is a "must have", figure out a way in your budget to buy it. If not, buy a couple of cans of paint and go home and build something you already have. With over 700 styrene and resin kits in my inventory, that is what I'm trying hard to do.
  12. Thanks! You'll also want to get the '71-72 GTO bumper and taillights from Reliable. The one in the '72 kit is too wide. I mastered this plus the spoilers for the GTO's and was able to acquire the original '71 grill assembly from a fellow modeler.
  13. Reliable Resin does offer a transkit to convert the 1972 GTO into a 1971. None on Ebay right now, but you can email direct at ReliableResin@aol.com. Look in my Fotki by using the link in my signature to see the 1971 I built with this transkit. Marc
  14. I just went to his website and there are no links to anything. I wouldn't mind buying some more hoods from Ed but if I can't get to them... Marc
  15. Thanks for the kudos, guys!!! Marc
  16. Steve, Aftermarket usually implies resin. Why not ask here on the forum if someone has an old interior tub they could part with? You could purhase an entire AMT '74 Road Runner/GTX kit for what an aftermarket part would cost. Then, look at all the extra parts you would have!!!
  17. If you have some, Phil, try it on a plastic spoon first. Testors Wet Look Clear works great with it.
  18. Beautiful build!!! It reminds me of a 1970 Nova SS I drove back in 1977. It was for sale for $1,200 and had an L78 396 under the hood with a four speed. Dad wouldn't let me buy it because it was scary fast. It was that same color with the dog dishes on it.
  19. Not directly, but the Torino chassis is a vintage metal axle chassis which makes stance adjustments easy. The chassis the car came with does not have the proper Ford engine compartment, but has the typical rounded wheel wells that are shared with the majority of kits from this era. Interesting is the AMT '66-67 Fairlanes (sister car to the Cyclone) has the setup that I'm using, which was carried over from the Fairlane kits to the Torino kits of '68-69. It's a nice upgrade that still allows the metal axle chassis I prefer.
  20. The intake is a modified part that came from the AMT Phantom Vicky kit.
  21. Muscle cars need muscle under the hood to live up to the image. Not wanting to modify or remove the shock towers to fit a SOHC 427 or a Boss 429 and the "new" cammer motors don't have the torque to push this big old hot rod. So, I decided that this Merc will have a Ford FE motor with modern EFI for driveability. I took a few liberties here, but I modified the EFI setup from the AMT Phantom Vicky to fit the vintage FE. I used the base engine from an AMT '69 Torino Cobra with heads and exhaust from the AMT '60 Starliner custom. The base of the intake manifold came from the Torino kit but is not identified on the instruction sheet. Then, I modified the Phantom Vicky intake to fit. It clears the hood and the intake will get fed cold air from the hood scoop. In theory, this intake setup could supply the FE motor with enough air and fuel to work properly. But since it's a model, we can do almost anything we want. Once I add a distributor, ignition wiring and a radiator hose it should look convincing. Enjoy!!!
  22. Can you post a pic of the tires? I think I have some but I need to see a picture to be sure.
  23. That's cool, but with the FE and the basically flat hood, there's not much room. I've been at the bench whipping something together that I think you guys will like. I'll post pics later in the week.
  24. Believe it or not, I have been thinking about a CF hood treatment. This would be a rather easy hood to cover in a CF decal. I've done it before on a Cuda AAR hood. Scale Motorsport has a red CF decal that might be cool too. Might look pretty cool here, but it might force me to go a little more "modern" under the hood. I was going to just go with a dual 4bbl FE motor. Might look at an EFI setup for the ol' FE.
  25. This project dates back to July 2008, when I finally scored an AMT 1966 Mercury Cyclone builder. It was lacquer crazed worse than the 1970 Camaro but I was determined to do something with it. Then, a few weeks later I won an Ebay auction for AMT '66 and '67 Cyclone builders. The '66 had never been painted but the original builder got a little crazy with the glue that resulted in some damage around the headlights and taillights, both delicate areas. Tonight, I tackled some of that damage and while I was at it, I took the Dremel to the fender openings to remove material from the backsides and removed mold seams. Not quite finished with the repairs, but I shot a light coat of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and checked my progress. I grafted in the engine compartment from an AMT '69 Torino and will be using its chassis too. The hood is from the 1990's issue of the AMT '67 Cyclone with the scoops made functional. Wheels are Salt Flat Specials from the Revell '57 Chevy painted Testors Gunmetal metallizer and modified to fit 23" Pegasus and custom 19" aluminum sleeves. I have new chrome from The Modelhaus front and rear and paint will be Tamiya Metallic Red overcoated with Tamiya Clear Red. Stay tuned for more updates!
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