smhardesty

Great looking car! I've got a real soft spot for AMCs. I'm also curious as to exactly what, if anything, would be needed to build a curbside. Is the kit complete enough for that? I might have to step out and get one. The price is close enough to my comfort zone to spring for one, and if I could get mine to look something close to yours it would be money well spent.

Very nicely done! Sweet looking Challenger.

Well, you're absolutely correct, Paul. I should have done a search for the car myself. Wasn't thinking, again. In the first photo you posted, the perspective looks correct. Then in the last one it doesn't look right at all. Optical illusion, I guess. Thanks for posting!

I found this photo on some website a while back. I downloaded it to use as wallpaper on my laptop. I hadn't really noticed what I think is something a little strange until a couple of days ago. Once I saw it, it's the first thing I see when I look at the photo now. Look behind the front wheel at the Holley logo and the 327 CID. It's a different font and obviously NOT slanted in proportion to to the angle of the car in the photo. The other thing that makes me think there is something wrong is the class, itself. Think about the weight of those cars and a 327 engine. B/GAS just doesn't seem right for that weight/CID combination. Does anybody else concur? Does the 327 CID look like it was Photoshopped in?

Nice build. Looks good to me!

Add me to the list of guys with no hobby shop locally. Nearest one is an hour and a half away. Add to that the fact that the prices there are 25%, or more, higher than online (delivered to the door) and it's online shopping for me. Face it. It's economic evolution. I hate the fact that Walmart has driven nearly ALL Mom & Pop shops out of business in small, Midwestern towns, but it's a done deal. Shop at Walmart or shop online for what you want.

Great looking build! That BMF job is really smooth. Looks really nice.

Will do. It'll be a little while.

Something you might want to consider in the way of a tripod would be a mini, or tabletop, tripod versus a standard version. I have an inexpensive Targus 6" model I picked up at Adorama a long time ago. Space is always a problem for me. I have way too many hobbies and other interests for my small office/man cave. The tabletop tripod means I don't have to have one of my 60" or 72" tripods set up and taking space. Here is a link to what Adorama is selling now. I guess maybe the Targus version isn't available anymore. https://www.adorama.com/tptt1.html

I think you misunderstood, Jim. Not 4mm, but .4mm like dot4. Here is the link: http://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Drawing-Illustration/Pens/White-4mm-Gelly-Roll-Pens/p/7695

FOUND THEM! I wasn't ignoring you, Jim. I just couldn't find the pens on Hobby Lobby's site. Each time I logged on the MCM forum and saw this thread I would try again to find the pens you suggested. Not sure why, but I never once thought to do a 'Net search, then go to Hobby Lobby. I just kept hammering away at their site. Today I finally got wise and did that 'Net search. They are "Gelly Roll" pens, not "Jelly Roll". I now have them bookmarked and I'm about ready to put an order together from Hobby Lobby with several different Sharpie, Gelly Roll, and Molotow markers. Thanks for suggesting the Gelly Roll, even if I was a little slow catching on. They're supposed to have .4mm sized tips which should be more than small enough to do even small raised white letters.

Count me in on following this thread. While I wasn't a TOTAL fan of these cars, I did have a small soft spot for them. I had a good buddy that had one. I was always amazed at how that car could punish the back tires.

I recently picked up a couple of Corvette kits. I'm not a big Corvette fan, but I really like the yellow and black '59 Vette that is on FantomWorks and I've also been watching some old Route 66 episodes. I got each of these delivered to the front door for $10 each. Can't go wrong for ten bucks, I guess.

That's pretty much what I had in my head. The OBVIOUS screw up on gasser class posted on the car versus one or two classes difference.

Those lights look good, JC. Seeing results like this makes me feel better about going with Sharpies versus BMF. Richard, where did you get the Sharpies with tips on each end? I can see where that would be VERY useful. I haven't seen those where I've been looking to order from. Thanks for the tip on the Uni-Ball, Jim. I found them in a couple different places. Unfortunately not at Hobby Lobby where I was planning on putting my next order in, but I can order from a couple different places.

Bill, Your explanation kind of hits the nail on the head. A lot of what you said is exactly what I was trying to say. Mostly stock engines versus a bored and stroked engines that look like multiple 1:1 engines, uncertainty of weight, etc, etc, could make a difference of 2 classes or more. Then add in the various changes that were made to gasser classes over the years and the class designation on the car COULD be different. By the way, thanks for that video. THAT'S real racin'.

I have that web page bookmarked and have read it a few times now. It's one of the better explanations I found on the 'Net that at least tries to explain the changes over the years. Several of you guys have pointed out the basic premise that it's weight to cubes to determine the class. On a 1:1 car that would be no problem. What I see that can't really be certain on a model car is the exact weight of the car. There is no way to tell for sure on a model if the fenders are steel or fiberglass, and then there are other "hidden" factors in a model that would be obvious on a 1:1 car. Then, throw in the changes to class over the years and things can be a little different again. That's really why I was asking how closely anybody pays attention to the class letters on the body/windows. If I did a build and was trying to replicate a specific car from a specific time period there would be little argument about what letters should be posted on the car. but if I just built a '41 Willys with a non-supercharged engine, there COULD be questions about the true weight of the car and what time period it was supposed to represent. Did that make any sense? Sometimes it's just really hard to explain things the way you have it in your head.

OK. Thanks, Snake. The Pentel marker was one I found while searching around and wondered how it compared to the silver Sharpie. I have a 2mm Molotow and I'm getting ready to order 1mm. I've only been playing with it on junk plastic and a couple of kits I have that I'm not going to ever build. It takes a certain touch to get it to flow just right, but once you get that feel it seems to work pretty well. Red and orange were two colors I figured would be useful for lights. I read a couple old threads where guys used orange and yellow both to get just the right shade for side markers.

OK. Without a whole, long explanation, I've discovered that I'm NOT going to be able to use BMF. Before anybody asks, or recommends anything, it has to do with being physically unable to do so. So I've decided to switch to using Sharpies and other brands of permanent markers, along with gel pens and Molotow Chrome markers. I've been reading as many threads as I can find on here about all sorts of markers and I'm getting a basic idea of what works and what doesn't. Some of the threads are kind of old, so I'd like to ask for ideas and suggestions from you guys that do use markers on a regular basis. Here is what I'm looking to find out. What brand of markers work best for what type task? What sized tip works best for what task? What colors do you use and for what purpose? Specifically, what works best for raised white letters? I know that acrylic paint is a staple for a lot of guys, but do gel pens work well or not? Along with the use of markers, I know I'm going to have to occasionally use masking tape for a lot of the tasks to get a good, straight line. I already have some Tamiya tape, but is there another tape that works better? So, if you regularly use any type of marker, I'd like to know the specifics of type, brand, tip size, etc, etc for each reason you use it.

Thanks, Dave.

OK. So obviously the consensus is that the body/window class designations ARE important. I'm going to have to decide on each build if I'm going to attempt to replicate a period racer and if so, what period it is to be. Either that or I need to decide to make each of my gassers current and present time drag cars. Thanks for all the replies! Helped me out a lot.

Thanks. It'll take me a couple days to catch up on threads of interest and get settled in a bit.

OK. I'll admit it. I was never aware of the Cobra Twister package. Never seen one. I just did some Internet searching and found info on Mustangs, Torinos, and Rancheros. I have never seen any of these. Just goes to show, you're never too old too learn. Nice job on the car!

I was just reading over some older threads and read the '58 to '68 NHRA rule books. Those are pretty darned neat. It brought to mind a question I've had for a while. I'm a real gasser nut and have several in my stash to eventually build. I know that gasser class designations changed at least a couple times over the years they ran. I'm wondering how many guys would notice whether or not the class letters on the car/windows was correct. Other than obvious GS - Supercharged classes, how many would really know if a car was truly an A/G or a C/G? The reason I'm asking is that I'm not one to recreate a specific 1:1 car. I'll build the car, then find just a few decals to apply and a lot of my builds will have very few decals. So how important is it to try and get the letters exactly correct? Of course things get even more complicated when you throw in the changes in class made over the life of gasser racing.

Not really any other place to post this so thought I'd put it here. I've been absent from the forum for about 6 months. Looks like I'm back to stay. Looking forward to getting caught up. Thanks.