Oldmopars

Ok, good info. I will dig through my kits and see what I have and build for those first.

Oh, don't worry, it's on the way. I just need to print one this weekend and make sure the interior will slide up in as I hope I designed it to do.

That is what I used to draw it from. That is how I got the scaling correct and the shapes right.

I have no doubt you can find a way to print them. Like I said, not impossible. But, what would you have to charge to make it worth your time? Add shipping, materials, etc. Just seems like it would be hard to set a price people would pay, and pay for your time. I can draw it, but is it worth it?

So, it does not really show, but the windshield on my model is angled, I did know that from the start. I also corrected the turn signal recesses and adjusted the letters some. I hope they all look better.

BTW, if you could give more details about what if off with the letters, it will help me fix them. I know the R looks strange, but I copied it as best I could from pictures, but sometimes the angle is not good.

As this is a project I am interested in doing in the future, anything more specific that you can share would help. I want to invest my time wisely and create something that is correct.

Alright, unless someone points out something I missed, I think these are ready for a test print. When the time comes for the real thing, it will likely be offered without the mirrors, seats, mattress, the cab lights and A/C. These are all item the kit builder will have from the donor truck and would only drive up the cost to print it. But, they are shown here to get the full picture of what it can look like.

Sorry, You are right, I was thinking BRBO.

If you really get stumped and can't find anything, PM me and I may be able to help.

I agree, I've never had much luck with using the small supports. I use medium. Also, just like Ford vs. Chevy, everyone likes different things, I prefer Lychee as my slicer. It feels more user friendly.

The rules are just a guide, intended to get us building and keep things fair. So, normally as long as the kit is less than 25% complete, it is fine to use. If all that is done is a primers cab, you are good.

Not sure yet, if I go farm truck with spreader, day cab. But if I go a different load/trailer it will be the sleeper.

New Mobious kits, maybe Fireball, or 3D printed options like Ebay.

So, I think I will be doing my 1968 Ford W1000 that I designed and will 3D print. It will go on a White Westerstar chassis and I may do a spreader on the back.

Thanks for the suggestion, I actually already have it, but I got because I have seen you use it in your builds. I also have some tan round shoe lace I may use for a hose real in still working on. As I recall it is a Barton pump. I forget the model, but that was my reference.

A little more work done on the interior. Small details and I added color so things show up better.

Creating the interior was a bit of a challenge. There are very few pictures of the early W1000. The ones that I did find show a very blocky, industrial interior. The 1972+ was much nicer. So, it it looks rather simple, that's because the original was too.

More progress. It may not look much different, but I redid the ladder, the rack, the grill and a few other parts. I am getting close to being able to paint and start assembly. I think there are some under hood details I want to add, but I can add those later. Not shown is the new CJ2A gas filler, the other suction hose and the rear hand rails ad step.

So, I need to thicken the grill a little bit, and pri t the lenses, but first shot looks pretty good.

Nice, where did you get the wheels and tires?

I have it with both Roller for cable and Hawse for Synthetic rope

I like it, it’s do-able. Excellent pictures too, very helpful.

This is a possibility, were any of the current kit engines offered with aftercoolers? What ones? Meaning, was the Cummins NTC ever available with one? What current kit engines could they be added to?

While this is not an impossible task, the issue is that they are such a small part, that you would print 10 and maybe get 5 that didn’t break. Then because they are so small, and difficult to to deal with, a printer would have to charge more than anyone would want to pay for them. There is a resin that is “tougher “, but it costs 2x as much as the normal resin. It is more flexible and would work better for these small parts, but again, the cost issue. On your own, no big deal. You throw 20 on the build plate and do your best to save as many as you can. Another issue is that there are many different sizes of wipers, small cars, big cars, 1/24, 1/25 scale, trucks, etc. They would have to offer several sizes. I think most would agree, it is not a product that they can sell and not lose money on.