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absmiami

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Everything posted by absmiami

  1. absmiami
    Damngood
  2. absmiami
    grrreat …
  3. absmiami
    Gracias MJ - but i am in a hurry to finish - i just keep forgetting which Lotus im building …. Anyway - as this kit is a curbside I had to scrounge around for a rear supension bulkhead - i had made one years ago for a Gurney Eagle - im modifying the casting to make the Lotus 38 bullhead …
  4. absmiami
    can we make the brakes work ?? just askin ...
  5. absmiami
    Cool !!
  6. absmiami
    The Mad Mike 25th scale Ford DOHC was an early 3D print kit engine made and sold about five years ago - it just fits into the 24th sc engine bay - this is a scale compromise - the 24th scale version of this engine won’t fit - you wont get the engine cover over it … measuring the mock up lets me know that I’ll have an issue w the wheelbase - which is 96 sc inches … the engine and gearbox w/out modification produces a slightly longer wheelbase - ill have to make some changes so that i can attach the gearbox to the suspension bulkhead … with the added bonus of an accurate or nearly accurate wheelbase
  7. absmiami
    Now i can add the engine mounts …
  8. absmiami
    I can now make the chassis extensions in the engine bay - the kit leaves these out because its a curbside …. Made from H shaped Evergreen strip, L shaped strip, and .015 and .020 strip - i’ll need to paint this dark gray …
  9. absmiami
    The dash was then soldered to the monocoque and installed - had to do this before painting because …
  10. absmiami
    Here’s where they go …
  11. absmiami
    The driving compartment side panels on the kit are abbreviated - stopping at the dash - so i made 2 panels from Evergreen strip to complete the monocoque forward to the pedal box …
  12. absmiami
    I looked thru the parts bags in the kit three times - couldnt find the attenueter ….
  13. absmiami
    Its a compromise - the .05 solder balls would have yielded a more sc accurate pattern - but would have been harder to handle and apply … think these .06 balls are set in securely - think they will stay put while the body is finished - more rivets needed for the back half of the body - think ill use the Archer rivet decals for those - they are black on the sheet - but i wont need exposed rivets in those sections …
  14. absmiami
    Under a coat of Tamiya primer…
  15. absmiami
    Knsr - you’re concern - and mine - is the size of the “rivets” ….
  16. absmiami
  17. absmiami
  18. absmiami
    Goodstuff !! gotta ch out ESS …
  19. absmiami
    Wellwelldone …
  20. absmiami
    Getting bettter at this as i go - the right hand - in the picture - row of rivets is better than the left hand row - which was done first …
  21. absmiami
    Ths hardest part is drilling a shallow hole and making a shallow “divet” that the rivet is glued into - i want the top half of the solder ball above the surface of the body -
  22. absmiami
    On the restored 38 - none of the rivets are exposed - but the best pix that ive found of the Clark 38 at Indy in ‘65 show exposed rivets - my theory is that Team Lotus used a minimum of paint and that the rivets were exposed after repeated polishing in the weeks before race day - Chapman did value appearance - but paint added weight - and at Indy extra weight made a big difference … the rivet decal that ive taped to the surface of the cowl is used to help me space the rivets …
  23. absmiami
    So ive decided to try the Pierre rivet thing …. These are .06 solder balls - just dumped a bunch if them on to this black tray and started drillin … .06 is a bit over scale - but the thought is that a coat of primer will help seal the rivets - and that i can leave a scale appearing rivet after some light sanding -
  24. absmiami
    Oh Pierre …
  25. absmiami
    Charlie - Best Balsa sells the sheet - these are about 1/8 inch - are they large enough ? The mailing charges fr over seas for just a decal sheet is too high - I’ll send you this section and you can pick the ones that are best …
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